[analogmusicman]

I'm starting a new topic so Jaz can put the other one to rest! :thumbsup:

anyway,here's some questions:

how come some manufacturers of thinset make 2 different colors of the same thinset? (white and gray) I've got a feeling it has something to do with the kind of tile maybe. (ceramic or porcelain?)

about "backerboard": do you have to leave the same 1/4 inch gap at the wall? what about between pieces of backerboard? is it ok to use the "cheapo" thinset you find at the "orange place" between the backer and the subfloor or should you be concerned about a real good bond there too? how about the gaps between the pieces of backer? should you fill the gaps with thinset,let it dry, and then tape? or should you put the tape right on after the thinset so it dries together? I guess the tape is the same as wallboard mesh tape? no special tape,right?

more questions to come...(hey,you guys told me to trash the book!:thumbup

tnx,

 

[JazMan]

BTW, can you give us a name to call you by?

how come some manufacturers of thinset make 2 different colors of the same thinset? (white and gray)

Portland cement is naturally gray, white costs more. There shouldn't be any quality difference because of the color. White is desirable or mandatory for certain types of installations and tile types such a light or translucent stone tiles.

Backerboard should also be kept 1/4" away from all solid objects. Generally most manufacturers want 1/8" between sheets to be filled with the tile setting adhesive and the special alkaline resistant fiber mesh tape. This can be done, allowed to dry, then tiles set later. OR, many recommend taping while setting the tiles so that you do not create a speed bump from excessive mortar buildup.

is it ok to use the "cheapo" thinset you find at the "orange place" between the backer and the subfloor or should you be concerned about a real good bond there too?

Two trains for thought for this. One is to use an unmodified thin set under the board because you do not need to bond to the subfloor. The fasteners keep it down. However, most manufacturers want you to use a modified thin set to set their board. I usually used modified as directed, but have no problem going unmodified. Of course I now use Ditra, so..................


more questions to come...(hey,you guys told me to trash the book!)

Yea right......but wait till you get our invoice for the other thread. :laughing:

Jaz

 

[analogmusicman]

BTW, can you give us a name to call you by?

what? "analogmusicman" isn't good enough? ok, you can call me "analog" but not "anal"



Yea right......but wait till you get our invoice for the other thread. :laughing:

Jaz

if there's one thing you "pro's" are good at it's creating invoices! :whistling2:

 

[analogmusicman]

more questions:

I've heard that it's important to get the "squeaks" out of the subfloor,true? (I guess 1 1/2" screws down through the subfloor and joist would do it,huh?)

the "backerboard": should the seams be "overlapped"?

tnx,

 

[analogmusicman]

hey Jaz,
the guy at "Bedrosian's" said I can use "liquid nails" under my backerboard instead of thinset. what do you think of that?

tnx,

 

[JazMan]

the guy at "Bedrosian's" said I can use "liquid nails" under my backerboard instead of thinset. what do you think of that?

I'm shocked that in 2011 there's still anyone that works in the business and has access to all the info and is still giving advise that proved to be bad in the early '70's.

Tell him he's an idiot! :yes: And tell him to wise up and join the forum so he can be forgiven.:laughing:

I've heard that it's important to get the "squeaks" out of the subfloor,true?

Well....of course. Squeaks mean things are moving. 1 1/2" fasteners are not long enough.

the "backerboard": should the seams be "overlapped"?

Overlapped? No, how you gonna do that? Maybe offset? :yes:

Jaz

 

[analogmusicman]

Overlapped? No, how you gonna do that? Maybe offset? :yes:



picky,picky,picky! ok,OFFSET, I got my terminology wrong,so sue me!

anyway,I got my answer, yes you must offset "Hardi-backer". (all backer I guess)

I kinda guessed the guy was a fool for suggesting I use "liquid nails". I'm going to use this "Mapei" thinset I bought at Lowes for the backerboard and the good (what appears to be anyway) thinset I bought at Bedrosian's for the tile. recommended by the salesguy so maybe I should be wary!:no:

tnx,

 

[analogmusicman]

Well....of course. Squeaks mean things are moving. 1 1/2" fasteners are not long enough.





so,what length of screw do you suggest?


tnx,

 

[JazMan]

I recommend 2" floor screws or 8d spiral deck screw nails. (faster-cheaper). No drywall screws.

Some people think the thin set is there to help bond the backer to the floor. WRONG! It's there so it'll fully support the board do there will be no movement. The board will conform to the floor perfectly. The fasteners keep it down, while the thin set supports it.

So, you got the Reflex, right?

Jaz

 

[analogmusicman]

So, you got the Reflex, right?



oh yeah,3 bags of it sitting in my garage.


tnx,

 

[analogmusicman]

so,I fixed the "squeaks" in the floor...lots of 2",2 1/2" and 4" screws. it doesn't make a "peep" now!

I'm ready for the "hardie-board" now.
question: do those screws for the backerboard screw right in or should you drill a "pilot hole" first? my friend stripped a whole bunch of screws then somebody told him he should've drilled "pilot holes" first. (the srews I bought at Lowe's which are made for Hardie-board use a square drive like deck screws)

another question: why does Hardie tell you not to screw the backerboard down into a joist? given that the screws are only 1 1/4",they'd only penetrate a joist 1/4" anyway!

tnx,

 

[JazMan]

do those screws for the backerboard screw right in or should you drill a "pilot hole" first?

You've got the right screws with the square drive so should go right in. If not, stop just after contact, reverse, then drive it home. I only used the screws a few times on small jobs. I usually used a roofing nail gun.

why does Hardie tell you not to screw the backerboard down into a joist? given that the screws are only 1 1/4",they'd only penetrate a joist 1/4" anyway!

Right, that's why you're supposed to use longer screws. They say that cuz most people would use two different screws otherwise.

Jaz
(analog's private tutor) :laughing:

 

[DangerMouse]

Thanks for the chuckles you two.... :laughing:

DM

 

[Bud Cline]

It's like a frigging Laurel and Hardy routine.

 

[JazMan]

It's like a frigging Laurel and Hardy routine.

I liked Laurel and Hardy, but loved the Three Stooges more.:thumbsup: So, we need a third.

Maybe we can take this on the road? :no:

Jaz

 

[Bud Cline]

I liked Laurel and Hardy, but loved the Three Stooges more.:thumbsup: So, we need a third.

Oh no you don't. I've been watching this stand-up routine (and the other thread also) for a long time now but you don't see me getting involved too much do you?

I personally don't think there is a tile project, I just think analogmusicman is writing a book using plagiarism as his sole source of information.:yes:

 

[DangerMouse]

I personally don't think there is a tile project, I just think analogmusicman is writing a book using plagiarism as his sole source of information.:yes:

Naaah, if he were, he'd be PMing ME for my vast and endless knowledge on the subject....







What were we talking about again?

DM

 

[Bud Cline]

Saw it done once and just a few years ago.

 

[DangerMouse]

Saw it done once and just a few years ago.

So how much did you make off the book? :laughing:

DM

 

[Bud Cline]

Nada.