[t1snwbrdr12]

We want to re do our floors in our bathrooms. 2 are upstairs levels, 1 is ground level on the foundation. They all have vinyl sheet flooring.

The flooring store I’ve been taking samples from suggested that I consider porcelain tile. They said I can simplify the process by getting this product called Mapei eco grip prim. I’ve been googling and searching and just not getting real answers. The idea seems too good to be true, like there must be a hold up to it.

I can prime my linoleum sheet floors with this stuff, then mortar and tile it?

Isn’t the cement board in a traditional tile job intended to make the floor more rigid? If not installing cement board, and going this route of this primer stuff, what is the negative or the potential negative? Any experience with it?

My initial desire was to go with luxury vinyl floating tiles but they all look so fake, everyone we’ve taken home has some issue for our likes and needs.

I’ve done peel and stick vinyl before (mother in law house and she still loves it). I spaced and grouted it. But I keep hearing that peel and stick is what gave vinyl tile a bad name and I should avoid it.

The goal is nice floors that we can enjoy a couple years and that will benefit the future sale of the house.

Any advice or suggestions on this Mapei eco grip primer or LVT or anything , greatly appreciated.

 

[carpdad]

I used peel/stick before but after seeing so many grow gaps or peeling off, I glued them anyway. Since any decent looking vinyl tiles are preglued, you may want to use vct glue.

Mapei is a good name but primer is to cover a surface that is very incompatible with another material. Example, regular thinset may not stick to a linoleum. But I think all linoleum is oneway or another too pliable for ceramic or glass tiles. Porceline is like a glass all throughout and that means it's stronger on its own, but not as a whole floor. With primer, thinset may stick but grout joints can crack and open. Cement boards give a firm and a good surface for tiles but does not make the whole floor stiffer. I think it will be best if you remove the linoleum and start with checking the conditions of framing. Subfloor and joists and nails - all good and proper distances, etc, for tile floor? After that, I redguard the subfloor, redguard again the cement board, then install the tiles.

 

[t1snwbrdr12]

The Mapei product I guess is technically a primer. It’s a paint like product that has grit in it to allow mortar to adhere better than it would to a slick surface like old tile or any old flooring substrate (from how I understand it).

I wish I could find more solid info on it. I do see that it’s been around quite awhile. It just seems odd that it’s a legitimate option to install tile.

I’m not sure the exact price difference when I add in the materials and tools I’d invest in if I do real tile. It may be a wash or tile will be more expensive. But I feel like the prices are relatively comparable.

 

[stick\shift]

The first step when considering tile is what's the composition of the current floor and what's the size, spacing and unsupported span of the structure beneath.

Generally speaking, vinyl will have a 1/4" layer of underlayment, neither of which is a good idea under tile.

 

[t1snwbrdr12]

I do believe there’s 1/4” underlay but I haven’t verified it. My friend had the same house (Not that they’re all the same because I know different subs of the same trade are in the same neighborhoods all the to and laid tile before he sold it. He saw underlayment beyond a typical subfloor and decided that was good enough and just laid the tile. I don’t believe he even put cement board or anything else. He told me he had no problems, But he also knew he was leaving the house.