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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry in advance if this question has been answered before. I am new to this forum !

Here is my situation. I have an older home that is built on a concrete slab. The back of my house has a "screened in Porch"
which only has a concrete floor and a roof at the moment. I am going to be enclosing the room in the spring time and looking to put down a slate tile floor. I am going with tile becuase I am also going to be installing a wood burning stove.

My question is: What would be the recommened subfloor ?

Here is what I think: Concrete-Vapor Barrier-Sleepers (with foam board between)-Plywood-RockBoard-Tile.

I am not to sure what would be the correct thickness of any of these materials either, Please help thanks.
 

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Concrete is the ideal base for tile--------Unless the slab is badly flawed-you are ready to tile.

If you will let us know where you are it will be easier to offer advice.

If you are in a freeze/thaw area your slate will not last to long,Slate will absorb moisture and split when frozen. Look for tiles that are Mohs 4 or harder,in freeze thaw areas.--Mike--

Your proposed floor system sounds O.K. in the room is weathered in and you want a warmer floor.

Treated sleepers,glued and screwed (tapcon)--Then vapor barrier is better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks

The whole reason behind raising the floor was due to the cold. The slab itself is in good shape but to low to the ground (maybe 4 inches). I am also thinking about using Ditra instead of RockBoard

I am in Central NJ
 

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Ditra is a good choice. I've done this exact thing,using 1 1/2 " foam --9 years and good as new.

It sounds to me that you have a good grasp of how to do this one.--Mike--


If you go ahead with the slate--glaze it well before you grout.
Raw slate can be ruined while grouting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
QUOTE]Ditra is a good choice. I've done this exact thing,using 1 1/2 " foam --9 years and good as new.[/QUOTE]

1 1/2 foam ? What size sleeper did you use ?

I have a good idea of how to do this. I think the best bet for me is

Vapor barrier-1inch sleeper-1inch Foam board (Sealed with foam)-1/2 inch T&G Plywood-thinset-Ditra-Thinset-Slate Tile

I also dont want to have to jump into the room when entering it
What do you think ?
 

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On that floor I used 2x4 sleepers---3/4 t&g ply subfloor is the MINIMUM no 1/2 to much flexing.

That is what TPOLK was trying to say--Trying to talk with a mouth full of chocolate cake,I think.
 

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You want to glue the sleepers down,and use screws-- this reduces flexing and bounce.

Another benefit--Tapcons are expensive and take time to install.

Treated wood must be used against the concrete. Vapor barrier on top then your 3/4 ply.--Mike==
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
On that floor I used 2x4 sleepers---3/4 t&g ply subfloor is the MINIMUM no 1/2 to much flexing.
That sounds great. The question I have now is ,Wouldnt the floor be above the Sole plate by 3/4 of an ich if I am using 2 x4 ? I will be framing the room and I do have the option of using a double Sole Plate if I can.
 

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R&D--Have you read his requirements?

Are you concerned with the sleepers shrinking?

Bit of a smart axx thing to pop into a situation and make a comment like that without an explanation,Why did you behave that way?
 

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R&D is right about not using pressure treated lumber indoors, especially when tile is being installed. PT is too wet, and yes it'll shrink and twist as it dries out. Use only kiln dried lumber.

Having said that, the entire method of sleepers over concrete is not an approved method to build up a floor for the purpose of installing tile. It may work most of the time if everything is done well, but it's a high failure installation. You are likely to develop some bounce and you will trap moisture.

Jaz
 

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If the whole reason for raiseing the floor is the cold then save what you would spend on wood ,sealer and backer ,and just get a floor heating system and tile to the slab.Thats what I did and it worked great
 
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