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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I have been attempting to do research on doing a polished concrete look shower surround. All I've been able to find is you CAN'T do this and you CAN'T do that and just slap some tile on it(apparently tile cures the common cold}. Well it's hard for me to subscribe to a CAN'T do philosophy when I've seen "concrete" showers, pictures of "concrete" showers, and when goggled there are plenty of companies that do "concrete" showers. From what I've been able to gather and my inclination to think outside the box, my theory on how this CAN be accomplished is as follows:

-Hardiebacker cement board attached to studs with cement board screws
-cement board mesh tape attached to seams
-seams and screws troweled with flexbond crack prevention thinset mortar
-sand thinset down smooth
-coat entire surface with Redgard crack prevention and waterproofing membrane
-trowel entire surface with flexbond thinset mortar(mixed with sakrete brown cement dye)
-screen/sand surface down as smooth as possible
-trowel Henry Feather Finish(skim coat) over thinset(mixed with brown cement dye)
-sand down as smooth as possible
-apply Miracle Sealants 511 impregnator
-apply a concrete/cement polish of some sort(Eagle gloss concrete polish or Miracle Sealants stone polish, etc}

*sidenotes: -yes, I know the difference between concrete and mortar :)
-what the manufacturers cover our *ss warranty covers is
of little concern to me:wink:

So, Ive read plenty of forums, etc... about how this CAN'T be done. I'd like to know how this CAN be done with the highest probability of success. Any thoughts, suggestions, etc, would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance :)

“Learning and innovation go hand in hand. The arrogance of success is to think that what you did yesterday will be sufficient for tomorrow.”

William Pollard

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I think you have the backing and waterproofing figured out pretty well, but I do not think that the Henry material will make a good finish. A product closer to pool plaster would work better as a final coat, but I also think you need a couple of coats under that of a polymer modified cementious stucco, aiming for a final thickness of 1/2-5/8". Every right angle is also going to crack, so you may also consider coving them out at least 3/4".
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