[MisterSteve]

I found the result of not having a storm door and I fear what I may be getting into when I remove the threshold to investigate the damage. Any suggestions as to how to remove the existing threshold with it's rusted screws? Is it typically glued down as well? Would I knock it towards the inside of the house to remove it?

I put a storm door on within two weeks of buying the home. Not sure who's bright idea it was to leave it unprotected...:no:

 

[joecaption]

Really has nothing to do with not having a storm door.
As we have seen hundreds of times someone installed a deck, stoop, porch whatever that is outside the door to close to the threshold.
Moden codes call for it being no closer then 4".
It's 100% sure way to get water to come in.
Also I'd bet the door was installed wrong in the first place.
Should have been done something like this.

http://jamsill.com/
It can be made from coil stock, peel and stick window tape or a store bought one like this.
No amount of caulking on the outside is going to stop it.
The whole door would need to be removed to do this right and fix any damage under it.

 

[DannyT]

on most of the exterior pre-hung doors i have seen the aluminum threshold is screwed to the bottom of the side jambs. you might be able to saw the existing one off and replace it but would have to seal the crack 100%. like joe said to fix it right you need to remove the door.

 

[MisterSteve]

The door absolutely needed a storm door with a small roof line ending right above the door. Seems like asking for trouble...

I would prefer to take the threshold out first and go from there as opposed to removing the entire door, jamb and all. Do the screws on the brown strip go into the floor? Or is it only attached to the jamb and then of course liberally liquid nailed just like the lauan I've been ripping up?

 

[joecaption]

If that's the same door your working on then someone messed up and did not install a short piece of gutter on that roof.
I also can not see a piece of Z molding over the top of the door under the J moulding.

A storm door will do nothng to stop water from coming in at the top of the door or under the threshold.

 

[BigJim]

That strip inside with the screws or nails is not part of the threshold strip as you will see, if it is it is a new one on me. The short roof needs a diverter to keep as much water away from that door as possible. That threshold will be tough to remove but doable. It is fastened to the bottom of the jamb and will need the screws or staples cut or you will tear the jamb up trying to get it out, then you will have to replace jamb and all.

Like Joe said, check to see if there is flashing over the door or a drip cap, that is a necessity also. When replacing the threshold I use aluminum to make a pan but the one Joe gave you will work also.

 

[joecaption]

It also looks like someone used pressure treated something under the threshold on the outside.
If it's a 2X then there's a big part of the problum.
It's to think and sticks out past the threshold and forms a funnel for water to get in.
I make mine out of 1 X vinyl lumber and use stainless steel trim head screws to attach it.

 

[MisterSteve]

Had to finish the tile in the adjacent room before getting involved in something else. So back to the threshold.

There is a piece of vinyl flashing that runs under the threshold and down the exterior side of the wall below the landing. The edge of this can be seen in the first pic. The strip is a treated 1 x 4 and the edge of the threshold extends just barely over the 1 x 4. I have never seen any water come in since I put the storm door on so I'm pretty sure the issue was water running down the door and seeping in. Not to mention the occasional wind driven rain. I'll have to take a closer look at the top of the door though anyways. IF I want to remove the threshold, are the screws or staples through the side of the jamb into the side of the threshold? This is what it looks like from what I can tell. Will a saw zall do the trick? THANKS!

 

[joecaption]

There's going to be staples or screws coming up from the bottom.
When I replace on of those cheap ones I replace it with one with an adjustable sill and add a seal on the bottom of the door.

To get the old one out I make two cuts all the way through it with a ciruler saw about 12" from the ends and lift out the two end pieces. More often then not it chips out some of the wood in the jamb, in my case I do not care because I have a break to bend the coil stock to cover the whole jamb anyway so there's no more exposed wood to paint.

Not sure what your hoping to acheve by just removing the sill.
If you pulled the whole door you could check to see if there's any Z moulding over the door, see if the J moulding was installed with a tab on the top piece, make sure window tape or caulking was used behind the brick moulding, make sure it was flashed up the sides of the R/O.

 

[BigJim]

JMHO, I would use the sawzall, cutting aluminum like that with a circular saw makes me a little nervous.

 

[joecaption]

Why? That's how it's done in the factory, that's how gutters can be cut.
Just have to hold your tonge just right.

 

[MisterSteve]

The reason I want to remove the threshold is because I know for certain that there was water coming in at one time. There was carpet at the door and the tack strips were completely rotten and blackened with mold and I want to be sure that there is nothing festering beneath the threshold. Either under the vinyl flashing or between the vinyl flashing and the the threshold. My guess is that the strip of wood preinstalled on the threshold is blackened mush. I'll be putting down laminate flooring and would rather take a look before that happens. I'll take some pics of the top and sides of the door too.

 

[MisterSteve]

So would a poperly installed sill pan be visible on the outside of the jamb?

 

[joecaption]

Pans are great and the best way to go, but almost no one uses them, one reason is not a lot of places stock them.
There's no telling how it was done without removing the door, could be anything from nothing was done, just silicone was used, just tyvek.
If you just remove the threshold there no good way to 100% flash it and a no way to get a pan under it.

 

[BigJim]

Why? That's how it's done in the factory, that's how gutters can be cut.
Just have to hold your tonge just right.

I am just a little gun shy after a fairly good cut like that.:yes: