[rick32]

I'm tired of trying to salvage my old tool shed. I would like to build a new one from scratch mainly because all the ones I've seen so far don't look like they'll stand the test of time. The shed I plan to build will be on skids.
The problem is I live in southwestern NY so I can see all four seasons in one day. This poses a problem for most exposed wooden structures. Now I have the sides and top all figured out. The question is, what do I put on the bottom? Should I use some sort of vapor barrier?

 

[Ron6519]

I would put a plastic barrier on the ground and put the shed on that. I would also incorporate vents into the area.
Ron

 

[rick32]

:thumbsup: thanx

 

[DangerMouse]

to make my woodshed a 'temporary' structure, i made 'sled runners' from 6x6 PT, rounded the front edge for dragging the building and hammered in railroad spikes to attach a tow chain to drag it around.
(i'll never move it from where it's at, but the inspector can't say anything either.... )
since it's up off the ground and dry inside, i just added floor joists and framed it in. no problems in the last 3 years.

DM

 

[ARI001]

If you want the shed to last I wouldn't put it on skids. Frame the platform like you would a freestanding deck using CA-B treated posts (ACQ is not rated for ground contact). Set the posts high enough to allow 6 inches from the ground to the bottom of the floor joists. You can use ACQ treated lumber for your joists. Joist size will be determined by what your intentions for the shed are. If it is just for storage you may be able to get away with 2" x 6" otherwise I would go with 2" x 8" or 2" x 10" joists. You will want to use 3/4" or 23/32" treated plywood for the sub-floor. If you intend to insulate the shed you will have to install treated plywood on the bottom as well (1/4") to keep unwanted pests out. You can dress up the cavity between the ground and platform with lattice of your choice. Remember that it is best to use stainless steel type 304 or better with treated lumber. If that is out of your price range use DBL galvanized (ZMAX) nails and dip your bolts in liquid plastic before installing. You will have to strip the plastic off the end to get the nuts on but they wont corrode as fast. Also use stick on flashing to seperate the washers from the the lumber or dip them as well. If you build it this way you may have to get a building permit in your area so check with your building department first. You can frame the walls and roof using untreated kiln dried lumber grade #2 or better.