[yummy mummy]

I have come across two thinsets that I plan on using for my tiling in my basement. It is concrete.

I have seen Versabond thinset, and Flexbond thinset. I was wondering if I need to use the more expensive one, Flexbond, as it is double the price of the versabond.
Can I go with versabond?

 

[JazMan]

You definitely do not need FlexBond to set tiles over concrete, VersaBond is plenty good enough in most cases.

You didn't mention the specific type of tiles, but Versa is a decent product for most tile projects with few exceptions.

Jaz

 

[yummy mummy]

Thanks Jazman.
The tiles I will be using will be either ceramic tiles or porcelain tiles.

I am curious, is Flexbond for when there is potential movement?

 

[JazMan]

FlexBond is a better version of VersaBond, has more dry latex polymers in the bag. Being your installation is a concrete floor allows the use of a cheaper unmodified mortar, especially if you were installing basic ceramic tiles. (Like the cheaper red bodied, high water absorbing tiles tile I see at the "vest" places). Porcelain tiles require modified mortar, (except over Ditra or Kerdi), such as Versabond and FlexBond.

You are correct that FlexBond is better suited when a slight amount of movement is expected. Flex is supposed to work even when there is a crack up to 1/16".

Jaz

 

[yummy mummy]

Thanks for the information, Jazman.

Too bad you are not nearby or I would come and purchase my tiles from you.......

 

[JazMan]

Where are you anyway, I thought you were in the area. I don't have a retail store, however I sometimes sell people tiles and ship to their home or office.

Just last week sold a gentleman from Illinois about 1,300 ft. of Monocibec Graal in various sizes and saved him well over $1,500.00.

I also represent several foreign tile factories and stone quarries and can fix you up with a container should you ever need at least 6,000 ft. or more. :thumbsup:

Jaz

 

[yummy mummy]

Thanks Jazman.

I am in Toronto, Ontario Canada. A little way from where you are.
We do have many tile retailers here to choose from.
Do you sell to Canada

 

[JazMan]

WOW, The GTA eh? Yea, it's a good 4.5 hours in light traffic.
Definitely no lack of tile used there. Lots of people from the "old country" that are used to high quality floors. The only problem in that area is the method many tile guys use to set tiles over a wooden subfloor. It's not done very well.:no:

I can sell in Canada for sure. Direct containers are no problem. I am sure I can also send job lots too, just haven't done it cuz of all the extra time and costs involved. However, I have contacts with some distributors, so it could be done that way. The customer could pick it up at a warehouse near you.:thumbsup:

Jaz

 

[yummy mummy]

Thanks Jazman for your information, eh....(yes, I am in the GTA)

How is it that they set tiles here? I am not familiar with what the tile pros do here. My dad set tiles once a long time ago, and what he did was what he calls a "scratch coat", where he puts some sort of steel..? mesh and then some cement over it, let it dry and then layed the tiles, from what I remember, it was a while ago.

I am curious what should they be doing when laying over wood? I just want to know so that when I go and see some tiling job being done by the pros, I can question them......:laughing:

 

[JazMan]

malfunction, see next

 

[JazMan]

That's it, that's the method that can't pass any of the tests it's been subjected to. :no:

Aside from "scratch coat" it's know also as "Jersey mud-job". It is NOT a good way to install tiles, although it'll probably work fine most of the time if everything is done just right. As the name implies, it seems to be widely used in the Jersey area as well as the GTA.

There are many methods that have been tested and used for many years. These tests have been conducted under controlled conditions by industry testing and certification organizations. On the other hand, scratch-coat has failed every time.

Among the methods that work;

A real "mud" job. A very dry mixed of damp sand and Portland, 5:1 more or less, and install over tarpaper and lath, about 1" thick works in most cases, although the "book" says should be 1 1/4" or thicker.

CBU, (cementitious backer unit), such as WonderBoard, Durock, PermaBase, HardieBacker.

Uncoupling membranes: A great way to set tiles over wood and over a slab too. Products such as Ditra, Noble's CIS and others.

I use the Ditra method when ever possible, it's a great product and I believe a premium method over the other methods under the right conditions.:thumbup:

Jaz

 

[magdacap]

Can i install ditra over a hardiebacker that was installed with no full thinset under and no tape on joints? It soea have aome thinaet in aome areas and joints.

 

[JazMan]

Can i install ditra over a hardiebacker that was installed with no full thinset under and no tape on joints? It soea have aome thinaet in aome areas and joints.

Absolutely NOT! :no:

To better help you please start your own thread, cuz you probably need some help. Start with a full xplanation of what you're doing and with what.

Jaz

 

[magdacap]

ditra over hardie

Thxs for replying. I dis start my own thread but noonehas replied. I am desperate.