Good morning all,
I finally got my mind straight on the plumbing (thank you for your advice there) and so I started to tackle the joists (described in the first question)...
When I started to pry apart the original sisters, I discovered to my dismay that the rot had gone farther through them to where I couldn't simply reinforce, I had to cut out the entire joist and fix the problem.
Actually, I had to do it on two joists, but they are now extended, each with a 2x10x12, attached to the good remnant of the original joist with lag screws, glue, and nails.
Already I'm seeing in difference in the flex in the hallway floor, so I'm feeling pretty good.:thumbup:
Thinking ahead to the next push, I have an upcoming issue with the joists that lie under a wall that runs parallel to the joists - a wall that must come down so I can replace the rotted floor that passes under it.
The original layout consists of four joists, spaced 3" apart. One joist was in the bathroom, the second lines up with the edge of the 2x4 sill plate of the wall, and the rest are there presumably to help support the floor on the other side of the wall.
I have repaired the first joist with the extending sister, so the spacing has widened a small bit there. I will probably need to similarly cut out and extend the second joist due to damage, and here starts the problem.
With these three close joists, I can't get a lag screw in there, nor can I get a palm nailer in there. I'm having problems seeing just how would you replace those joists, assuming a worst-case scenario.:confused1:
The best idea I can come up with is to cut off the joists, and slip sisters into the narrow gap. I could glue them up in there, and use some really, really long lag bolts or threaded rods to tie the three joist remants and the sisters together into effectively a single thick fingerjoint.
From a support issue, this should still work for the wall since the shift will still line up under the wall sill plate. The first problem is that I need to run water up through that wall in that overlap, and no gap means no passage for PEX. I'm thinking that if I drill through the assembly, that will weaken it considerably, which works against me. Of course, beefed up as it is, it may not be as bad as I think...
I suppose I could also toenail two joists together, coming in angled from the top and bottom, but would that be strong enough without a lag screw?
I'm hoping you've got some better thoughts...
As always, thanks!
I finally got my mind straight on the plumbing (thank you for your advice there) and so I started to tackle the joists (described in the first question)...
When I started to pry apart the original sisters, I discovered to my dismay that the rot had gone farther through them to where I couldn't simply reinforce, I had to cut out the entire joist and fix the problem.
Actually, I had to do it on two joists, but they are now extended, each with a 2x10x12, attached to the good remnant of the original joist with lag screws, glue, and nails.Already I'm seeing in difference in the flex in the hallway floor, so I'm feeling pretty good.:thumbup:
Thinking ahead to the next push, I have an upcoming issue with the joists that lie under a wall that runs parallel to the joists - a wall that must come down so I can replace the rotted floor that passes under it.
The original layout consists of four joists, spaced 3" apart. One joist was in the bathroom, the second lines up with the edge of the 2x4 sill plate of the wall, and the rest are there presumably to help support the floor on the other side of the wall.
I have repaired the first joist with the extending sister, so the spacing has widened a small bit there. I will probably need to similarly cut out and extend the second joist due to damage, and here starts the problem.
With these three close joists, I can't get a lag screw in there, nor can I get a palm nailer in there. I'm having problems seeing just how would you replace those joists, assuming a worst-case scenario.:confused1:
The best idea I can come up with is to cut off the joists, and slip sisters into the narrow gap. I could glue them up in there, and use some really, really long lag bolts or threaded rods to tie the three joist remants and the sisters together into effectively a single thick fingerjoint.
From a support issue, this should still work for the wall since the shift will still line up under the wall sill plate. The first problem is that I need to run water up through that wall in that overlap, and no gap means no passage for PEX. I'm thinking that if I drill through the assembly, that will weaken it considerably, which works against me. Of course, beefed up as it is, it may not be as bad as I think...
I suppose I could also toenail two joists together, coming in angled from the top and bottom, but would that be strong enough without a lag screw?
I'm hoping you've got some better thoughts...
As always, thanks!
