That's a leaky attic door
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Not so much leaky as just unsealed and under insulated.
You can buy a pre made one or make your own. Both will work.
Not so much leaky as just unsealed and under insulated.
You can buy a pre made one or make your own. Both will work.
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37,499 Posts
If it's a $100.00 attic door it's going to leak air.
You can make your own cover for inside the attic with 2" thick foam.
You can make your own cover for inside the attic with 2" thick foam.
Yeah, the 3/8 plywood or whatever is not doing anything. I made ours out of 2" rigid, so that it sets over the opening, and just push it out of the way when we need access, then back into place as we climb down. Just use the right adhesive. I can't remember jack any more, but you'll figure it out; just check the labels.
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42,671 Posts
Maybe something like this.
http://www.stairwayshop.com/Attic_T...SIkW_Mo3cfAQSjhpBoC_unw_wcB&source=googlebase
http://www.stairwayshop.com/Attic_T...SIkW_Mo3cfAQSjhpBoC_unw_wcB&source=googlebase
What is the actual temperature difference between the access point panel and the drywall.
Using one of these will let you know.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=thermoter
I would like to know how much the total savings will be for just that small area.?
Maybe just using some old blankets or quilts would a better solution.?
Using one of these will let you know.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=thermoter
I would like to know how much the total savings will be for just that small area.?
Maybe just using some old blankets or quilts would a better solution.?
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42,671 Posts
He's got an IR imager. He can take those temp readings with it.
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Somebody is just having too much fun w/ their FLIR :vs_laugh:
I just built a box with rigid foam and canned spray foam. Then put weather stripping on the frame of the the door and weather stripping on the bottom of the box. Then I put bungee cords that attach to the rigid foam box and frame so when you attach it to both it pulls it down nice and tight. I threw some roxul on top of the rigid foam box just for a little extra r-value. Unfortunately, because of clearance on the sides I could only get R-5 for the side pieces. The air sealing qualities alone make it worth it.
Not mine, but same idea:
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Not mine, but same idea:
Af, just a note, and I haven't reviewed the thread to see if already answered, my apology. But your title says leaky attic door and the IR image doesn't show air leakage. When you see a warm air leak at the ceiling it will give you a hot signature. All of the cold you see is conduction.
When I use my blower door fan to depressurize the house I get cold signatures at all leaks and it makes it easier to see them. Also, without a strong fan running (be sure to shut off all naturally drafted appliances) there is a neutral zone inbetween the high exfiltration and low infiltration that will not show up. It still leaks when the wind blows but not under static conditions.
Bud
When I use my blower door fan to depressurize the house I get cold signatures at all leaks and it makes it easier to see them. Also, without a strong fan running (be sure to shut off all naturally drafted appliances) there is a neutral zone inbetween the high exfiltration and low infiltration that will not show up. It still leaks when the wind blows but not under static conditions.
Bud
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