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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How do I test the slope? I'm probably just overthinking it, should I just get a jug of water and pour it in where the cleanout will be? And then also cut open a drain inside the house somewhere and pour some water in there and make sure it gets all the way through? The part past the cleanout towards the septic is easily adjustable, but the part closer to the house is much more rigid. I am just about to set the final parts but I want to test the slope first.
 

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Set your 4 ft level on the pipe and lift one end up to level if you have lifted the end up one inch you have 1/4 per foot. if you lift it 1/2" you have 1/8 per foot. I believe the bigger pipe like 4" only needs 1/8" but you should double check that rule.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Set your 4 ft level on the pipe and lift one end up to level if you have lifted the end up one inch you have 1/4 per foot. if you lift it 1/2" you have 1/8 per foot. I believe the bigger pipe like 4" only needs 1/8" but you should double check that rule.
Ok. Are there pipe stands that are made for this? As you can see, I've been improvising with used cans of PVC glue.
 

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You need a level that reads 1/4" per foot grade. Set it on the pipe and slope the pipe until you see that reading. When you have accomplished this- water and solids will drain.

Most codes require a cleanout as the sewer exits the building, and it should be installed in the same direction with the flow of the sewer line. This is also a good location to administer a pressure test by filling the system with water. The other end of the pipe needs to be capped when testing. Fill it full and check for leaks. When done, remove the test cap
 

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You've over excavated. Fill and compact the dirt to the bottom of the pipe. If not well compacted under the pipe, it will settle and cause low spots over time...
 
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Yup. Loose fill arbitrarily tossed in that trench will raise the pipe, and you will end up with nothing but a bunch of hills and valleys. Ideally you want the bottom of the trench to follow the slope as closely as possible, but looks like it's too late for that so you'll just have to take it foot by foot and hope you're alright at the other end. Work the fill in under it and then enough over it to keep it from coming up on you. There are levels that compensate for you, but what I have done, using a 4' level and assuming 1/4" per foot as Eplumber gave you for example, is tape a 1" shim at one end of the level so that it reads level at the right slope, rather than having to stop and measure it each time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yup. Loose fill arbitrarily tossed in that trench will raise the pipe, and you will end up with nothing but a bunch of hills and valleys. Ideally you want the bottom of the trench to follow the slope as closely as possible, but looks like it's too late for that so you'll just have to take it foot by foot and hope you're alright at the other end. Work the fill in under it and then enough over it to keep it from coming up on you. There are levels that compensate for you, but what I have done, using a 4' level and assuming 1/4" per foot as Eplumber gave you for example, is tape a 1" shim at one end of the level so that it reads level at the right slope, rather than having to stop and measure it each time.
Ok. Great idea with the shim.

It's 1/8"/ft. btw.
 
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