DIY Home Improvement Forum banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
I started a project that I can't seem to figure out. It started with wanting to sister badly cut and drilled joists that sag and have cracks. It turned into a lot more of a structural project with sill plates, joists, ledgers, bottom plates and studs. I've already eliminated the leaky water heater and cast iron drain pipes that where most likely the cause. I've also purchased bora-care to take care of the infestation. Now on to the head scratcher......

I'll upload pics and drawings to explain the best I can. It's a combo of platform and balloon framing. Built in 1880, and 2 separate additions done some time after the 50's. It's a 2 story house, the additions done to the house are only 1 story with crawlspace and flat roof.

Also, i'm on a tight budget. So calling a builder or structural engineer isn't possible anytime soon.

I'm trying to replace the sill plate, joist end,studs and bottom plate at the moment. I'll worry about the joists later. The area use to be an exterior wall. Thank you for reading, and i appreciate any help.
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
also, i thought before cutting joist end i could cut the notched part of the joist off to get better access when removing joist end. I would either slide new joists in at some point with full span, or put 2x8 blocking on the edge of the notched 2x8. it would almost put me 2 inches higher, but i'm pretty sure it's almost 2 inches low already from when the 2x4 sill was swapped in from a notched beam. Meaning, i think there was a notched beam there originally by comparing it to the rest of the house.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
9,082 Posts
Ignoring the cut out damage for now, I'd look at the water/termite damage first and figure out what structural part needs repairs. The sill can be cut in pieces to remove but does not have to be replaced as long piece. In fact, I'm not sure if the sill in your drawing is a sill I know. Are your joists sitting on the foundation or on the sill? A notched joist like that will crack along the cut corner. The rim joist is not a rim anymore after the addition. If the addition is attached to the rim, you just have to see if the supporting structure is still good. You may be looking at tearing out lot more than necessary to make it look like the original, but it may be a work that is not needed. 3/4" spade bit will tell you a lot about the condition of the lumber.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
joists are on the sill. sill is partially on a concrete wall, and there is a 6' span where the concrete wall was knocked out for plumbing and heating ducts. new joists wont be notched, and will give me inch and a 1/2 lift. the parts i want to replace have structural, water, and termite damage. the picture shows the gap, it needs to be rotated to see it correctly.the addition is still good, the original part its attached to is bad.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
516 Posts
You have a lot on your plate man. Here are a couple things i thought of.

build a temporary wall 2' or so back on each side to support your floor joists better safe than flatter than a pancake.

You dont need a triple ledger. you can just use a regular 2x8 or if you want better compressive strength use timber strand engineered rim boards they are tougher than dimensional lumber.

you need to make sure your rim board is on top of your sill plate and underneath the bearing wall. so you may need to go with a bigger sill plate to catch your rim board.

Your joists in your pic, the one with the white pipe, need to have hangers.

buy, borrow, or beg a couple of bottle jacks They will make your life much easier.
And please be damn careful and make sure you are not the only one on site just in case something goes wrong make sure you have someone outside the crawlspace/house that can get assistance in case of emergency.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The double or triple ledger was to make it a beam that bridges gaps in the foundation wall. I do plan on installing joist hangers after its all done. I'll have to take some better pics somehow in this cramped area, otherwise suggestions made wouldn't have been made at all.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top