I discovered a galvanised(i think) 2" pipe with corrosion causing some leakage into the crawl space. When I was looking to splice in some pvc I found that the connection for this line where it enters the main sewer line had basically corroded away. Is it acceptable to cap off that bad spot on the main line and run the 2" to a shower drain just above the point of entry to the main sewer line? I'm hoping for a temporary quick fix that will buy us some time until spring. Then we could use our camper for a bathroom while a more permanent fix is implemented. I'm also considering running pvc to the current broken spot and just slightly sticking it in as there is still some of the old connection remaining, then sealing it up somehow, rubber tape, caulking, whatever I can get that may work. The broken 2" line is draining the kitchen sink and clothes washer.
Temporary drain question
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A picture would help--
There are many rubber fittings made by FERNCO---google that---these are used when a pipe can't be unscrewed and must be ut off with a hacksaw---slip the Frenco fitting over the stub--tighten up a hose clamp---then slip a length of PVC pipe into the other end--
These are perfect for temporary repairs---
There are many rubber fittings made by FERNCO---google that---these are used when a pipe can't be unscrewed and must be ut off with a hacksaw---slip the Frenco fitting over the stub--tighten up a hose clamp---then slip a length of PVC pipe into the other end--
These are perfect for temporary repairs---
Thanks for the response. Unfortunately I don't think there is enough of the old connection to securely attach a rubber connector only. I guess i could use the rubber tape to give it some extra hold. I am going to see what I can rig up after our New Years lunch. I will see if I can get a picture posted.
The saddle tee was a no go, didn't have room to get it in there. I did get the job done with the creative use of some adapters, rubber tape, and some jb weld. Have one last rubber elbow to put in, but decided to let the jb weld and pipe glue setup overnight. Will give it a test run tomorrow afternoon. Thanks to all for the suggestions.
Threaded it looks like
Judging by the other drain connections I think it was a threaded joint. The broken parts of the old pipe is still there so I am really not sure what it was with 100% certainity. I know I can't get the broken portion out easily, but I didn't want to risk further issues so I didn't try real hard either. Hopefully my temporary fix will get us by for a couple of months.
Judging by the other drain connections I think it was a threaded joint. The broken parts of the old pipe is still there so I am really not sure what it was with 100% certainity. I know I can't get the broken portion out easily, but I didn't want to risk further issues so I didn't try real hard either. Hopefully my temporary fix will get us by for a couple of months.
I have attached a picture of the pipe I am working on. This was taken before I cleaned it up some. I think there was a clog at this joint, which may have caused the corrosion to begin with. Hopefully the picture has attached properly.
Attachments
additional pics
I have a couple of pictures of what's upstream and downstream. I do not have any overall shots of the area currently. I am aware that it needs replaced, just need to buy some time until I have more time to do it, hence my temporary fix I mentioned a post or two ago. I'm hoping to get by until we can get our camper out of it's winter hibernation. That would allow a bathroom while I'm doing the plumbing rehab over the course of a weekend. I am open to the replacement help now however, so I have the info when the time comes. Any and all help/suggestions is very much appreciated. I'm an electrical guy, not a plumber. I've ran water supply lines, but dealing with this old cast sewer pipe is a new ball game for me.
One pic shows the vent stack going up, which also runs to the master bath toilet. Just upstream from the vent stack is a cleanout, which also has the master bath shower running into a fitting.
The other picture is the fitting just downstream, which goes to the second bathroom toilet. If the Y can be replaced without removing the vent stack Y, it shouldn't be all that difficult I wouldn't think? I'm just not sure how to get around the hubs. Are there rubber Fernco connectors to deal with either end of the hubbed fittings? Sorry, can't think of a better way to describe that.
I have a couple of pictures of what's upstream and downstream. I do not have any overall shots of the area currently. I am aware that it needs replaced, just need to buy some time until I have more time to do it, hence my temporary fix I mentioned a post or two ago. I'm hoping to get by until we can get our camper out of it's winter hibernation. That would allow a bathroom while I'm doing the plumbing rehab over the course of a weekend. I am open to the replacement help now however, so I have the info when the time comes. Any and all help/suggestions is very much appreciated. I'm an electrical guy, not a plumber. I've ran water supply lines, but dealing with this old cast sewer pipe is a new ball game for me.
One pic shows the vent stack going up, which also runs to the master bath toilet. Just upstream from the vent stack is a cleanout, which also has the master bath shower running into a fitting.
The other picture is the fitting just downstream, which goes to the second bathroom toilet. If the Y can be replaced without removing the vent stack Y, it shouldn't be all that difficult I wouldn't think? I'm just not sure how to get around the hubs. Are there rubber Fernco connectors to deal with either end of the hubbed fittings? Sorry, can't think of a better way to describe that.
Attachments
Plumbing with cast iron---rent a chain breaker---
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This will allow you to snap the iron in a matter of seconds----then use Frenco rubber connectors to convert to PVC
I'd replace as much of the old iron as you can----properly support pipes coming from above---you don't want to dislodge something inside of your walls--or have a heavy vent stack drop--
This will allow you to snap the iron in a matter of seconds----then use Frenco rubber connectors to convert to PVC
I'd replace as much of the old iron as you can----properly support pipes coming from above---you don't want to dislodge something inside of your walls--or have a heavy vent stack drop--
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