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Hey all, new to this forum. I have a 20ish year old deck that was built with no flashing at all around the ledger (just bolted straight through the siding into the rim joist), and it's caused a lot of damage to the rim joist. I'm planning repair the damaged rim sections, but to do so, I will have to disconnect the deck/ledger from the house. What would be the best way to temporarily support the deck for a few weeks? The deck is about 9.5' high, 6' deep, and 16' wide. I attached a pic of the underside of the deck.
 

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JUSTA MEMBER
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Is this deck used much?

I would tape off the area with that yellow caution tape, and keep off it while it is loose.

Then support it just like any other load bearing wall replacement job.

Get some pole jacks, and fashion a beam to span the deck, install the jacks and beam, take the weight of the deck off the ledger, remove the ledger, the rim joist, and replace everything rotted.

Then rebuild with proper flashing, after the rim and ledger is replaced, waterproof it VERY well.

and put it to use again.

It might be inconvenient to have it out of service for a while, but far better than letting it collapse on anyone.

ED
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the reply. Is there a reason it needs to ever be loose at any point? I figured I could set up the supports, then disconnect the ledger, negating the need for any caution tape/etc. Essentially, I'm asking about the best way to support it. The "yard" end of the deck is supported with 3 6x6 posts with a double 2x10 beam notched into the posts, floor joists are 2x8's spaced 24". Does my temporary support need to be that strong? Can I scale it down a bit? Maybe use 2 or 3 4x4's for support, with a beam? Using pole jacks is going to be a lot more expensive, considering that I don't own any.
 

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JUSTA MEMBER
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you could use 4X4 posts instead of pole jacks, but I still would keep any load off of it while the re-structuring takes place, 9 feet high is quite a way to fall and will result in injury that needs to not happen. The pole jacks make it easier to lift the deck to where it can be re-attached to the home properly.

And the temporary 4X4s are not anchored solidly to the ground, and can tip over easily. Thus my opinion of needing to tape it off from any use until it is secured back to the house.

ED
 

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put a beam and then 4x4 posts on the house side, run 2' pieces up the sides of the 4x4 and on each side of the beam to keep it in place. On deck blocks, then X brace it with 1x4's, on 2 ends and the house side.

Hope you can make sense of that.
 

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put a beam and then 4x4 posts on the house side, run 2' pieces up the sides of the 4x4 and on each side of the beam to keep it in place. On deck blocks, then X brace it with 1x4's, on 2 ends and the house side.

Hope you can make sense of that.
Yes!! Cross bracing!!! With out that it can fold up and fall over.
 

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It looks like the deck wraps around the corner on the far end of the pic. If that's the case then that end isn't going to fall over.

The close end of the pic defiantly needs a brace from the rim closest to the wall down to the base of the post.

Other than that just a 2x4 with a wood footing propped up under every other joist on the wall side is all is needed imo to support the deck while the repairs are made assuming you can keep uncontrolled traffic off the deck while the work being is done.

There's really minimal weight that needs to be supported there.
 

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Personally, I'd just post up under the joist and not build a wall with a top plate. The plate will just be in the way the entire time.
 

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OK, finally got around the putting up the support wall. How does this look to you all? Stud under each deck floor joist, made them as tight fitting as I could, 3 8d toenails in each stud top and bottom. Next step is taking off the ledger, and seeing what kind of shape the rim joist is in/how much I need to replace.
 

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JUSTA MEMBER
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Have to look sidewards, but it looks sturdier than the original.

As tight to the current position as possible is the right way, careful to not dislodge the deck too much, and just remove the rotted parts and replace.

Good to get flashing and finishing, then use it heavily.


ED
 

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The best place to start is by installing the ledger board to provide reference for the rest of the deck. Stairs and landings should be the final step in framing the deck.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The best place to start is by installing the ledger board to provide reference for the rest of the deck. Stairs and landings should be the final step in framing the deck.
Not sure if you read the initial post...
I am doing repair on an already-existing deck. I was asking about the best way to temporarily support a deck to enable removal/replacement of the ledger board.
 
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