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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a stubbed in bathroom in the basement, not finished yet, but planning on it soon. we are going to add a kitchen area in the basement but i need to create a drain for the sink/dishwasher...

the good thing, the shower pipe that is in the floor, ill measure and add photos tomorrow, i think it was a 3" maybe, but yes its the one for shower that they surround with gravel to allow you the room to put in the jtrap or whatever that goes under the tub/shower.

what i was hoping to do is remove the rock/sand around that pipe (i already kinda did to the point where i can see the pipe hit a 90 and head over horizontally) but i still have some more removal to do. I dont believe there is any kind of a j trap there currently, pretty sure anyway... but i want to cut that pipe down low enough to add in one of the t connections that will still allow it to come straight up to make a connection for a shower, but then also run over horizontally only about 3 foot to where it will hit a framed wall where the sink will back up against and i can use it for a drain.

My main question is, since i have to have 1/4" per foot of drop for drainage, and i want the new drain to be 2", if i can fit a t of some kind in there and still keep it below the basement floor level so a shower can still be installed there, i was afraid would i still be able to keep the pipe slowly inclining towards its new kitchen sink location, i was just afraid that where it came out of the new T, it might be perfectly horizontal to the floor, would the pipe be flexible enough i could still "force it" to move uphill at that 1/4" per foot without a problem, im guessing i can but still need to be able to do this and have room for the jtrap for the shower and keep it all below floor level. the reason im picking the shower drain as it is very close to the wall where the sink drain will be and i would have to remove very little concrete to move the pipe across"under" the floor to get it there, the toilet drain is a few feet further away but technically still accessible, or do i need to tap into this pipe that is under the floor but putting the T on the actual horizontal piece of pipe. just to be sure im clear, i am suggesting cutting the veritcal pipe that is coming up for the shower to a shorter length, and putting the T on the verical "riser" part..as there just maybe be enough room, ill tell exact measurements tomorrow, but its like a foot or so of play i have before it hits the 90 and cuts over under the floor. or im wondering do i have to cut the whole riser off and put a T onto the main horizontal line that runs under the floor and have a new riser come up for the shower from the new T and then run my new drain off of the opposite side of the T from the main line that is under the floor already. hopefully the measurements and pictures tomorrow will clear up anything i wasnt clear on

** from the picture the wall the sink is going to be on is the wall right straight back, pretty close to straight back from the pipe or maybe left a touch when looking at the photo, as far as venting, i would vent in that wall in the back of the picture where the drain would be, and run the vent up and connect into the vent that is already waiting to be tapped into that they left for me in the basement joists when they stubbed in the bathroom for the basement
 

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Let's start with a nice picture. I didn't follow all of your description but I don't think you can connect the kitchen line where you propose. It needs to be downstream from the shower vent.
 
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Gonna need some more pictures before being anywhere near able to offer suggestions. Room layout, sink location, pictures of the hole with the "90 goins horizontal" would be nice.

Going off the small amount I was able to interpret from your post, I think what you are wanting to achieve seems doable but you may need to achieve it by other means.
 

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Let's start with a nice picture. I didn't follow all of your description but I don't think you can connect the kitchen line where you propose. It needs to be downstream from the shower vent.
Folk art.. should be framed.. :wacko:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Gonna need some more pictures before being anywhere near able to offer suggestions. Room layout, sink location, pictures of the hole with the "90 goins horizontal" would be nice.

Going off the small amount I was able to interpret from your post, I think what you are wanting to achieve seems doable but you may need to achieve it by other means.
here is the additional information, the measurements on the diagram are very accurate

and if you measure from the vertical pipe for shower down, to the first rib of the "u" for the ptrap that is in there, there is exactly 10" of straight pipe from the floor height down to where the straight pipe goes into the U-pipe. this is 2" pipe.. so maybe i can cut off b4 the trap part, insert a "t" that head over towards my south wall, which is where i need my new sink drain, and the odd leg of the T maybe be turned into the trap for the shower again?

other option although a little further, would be tap into the toilet drain, which you will see its exact location on the diagram... would have to remove more concrete, but connection may be simpler.. toilet is a 3 inch.. are at least the vapor cap on top of it says its 3 inch... that pipe is cut flush to the floor so cant read the side of it...

let me know best approach...thanks... oh, and the pipe that is underground that feeds the tub drain comes in from the north west, heading south east towards the tub drain, surely tied into the other two pipes for the stubbed bathroom, it comes up to the tub drain at almost a perfect 45 degreen angle like towards the corner of the two frame walls in the south east corner of my diagram...

and the diagram is the bathroom stub in area, the kitchen will be placed on just the opposite of that south wall, ...thanks...

********if the text on the diagram is too small, each square is 3", the framed walls are south and east edge of paper, the tub drain is south most drain, toilet is next to the north, and the vent/sink drain is the one most north... the sink i need to put in will be on opposite side of that south wall at top of page..you should see the circle, it will come up in the interior of that wall...between the bathroom/kitchen
 

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Don't even think about tying into the 2". That line is dedicated t the shower- nothing else.
I can't read your drawing on my laptop- too small of print. sorry
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Don't even think about tying into the 2". That line is dedicated t the shower- nothing else.
I can't read your drawing on my laptop- too small of print. sorry
i added some writing in my last post, because i also saw that after the website downgraded my photo size it got a little blury, but the top edge of the page is south...i think i clarified everything else that was important i had written on there. let me know if you have any other questions
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Is there anyone out there that can offer some advice. I have provided all pipe sizes and layout with measurements. Now I just need to know the best approach. If I truly shouldn't t off of the 2" shower line. Can I dig up the stool and change out the 3" 90 degree for a t and run that new leg over for my sink. That is going to be more work than tying into short line. Just curious. Why can't I tie into shower. Is it not enough room if shower were running and then my new sink\dishwasher at same time? Is that the issue. Just curious as I'm not a plumber.

Really need some advice on the best way here so I can get moving on this project. Thanks
 

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You are trying to tie a sink into a ptrap that serves another fixture. That will create problems and is not allowed by code.
You will need to find another location downstream of the shower vent.
I still cannot make out all the details on your drawing....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
the graph looks pretty readable to me, the pipe most to the north is the 2" which is both sticking out of floor, plus above it they have run a 2" that still has a vapor cap on it which is intended to tie into to vent these bathroom fixtures, the south and east walls are framed, thats what the squiggle lines represent...

so someone had already said no to tapping into the 2" tub drain, i guess i am assuming that this means that the tub needs that full 2" capacity, the only other drains near by are the 3" toilet and the one in floor for 2" sink drain, these are very low use items, only used itermittently, can i use one of those, and if so, what adapters/technique to get into those,

my guess is that all 3 of these drain spots in my floor probably all come together very nearby into a single pipe, like maybe somewhere between 3 and 5" and then run over to connect into the largest pipe underground that works its way outside to sewer, would this be correct guess, house is 5 years old by the way..
 
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