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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I purchased a RIDGID table saw off Craigslist.
I love it but for one irritating problem.
The seller did not have a miter gauge so I bought it without one. I had one from my old saw and figured I'd use that one on the RIDGID. It works fine in the right slot but will not fit into the left slot.
I'd like to know if anyone else has had this problem and how they solved it.
I don't want to take a grinder to the gauge, that would be a last resort.
 

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I purchased a RIDGID table saw off Craigslist.
I love it but for one irritating problem.
The seller did not have a miter gauge so I bought it without one. I had one from my old saw and figured I'd use that one on the RIDGID. It works fine in the right slot but will not fit into the left slot.
I'd like to know if anyone else has had this problem and how they solved it.
I don't want to take a grinder to the gauge, that would be a last resort.
Even though you aren't the original purchaser I recommend contacting Rigid to determine if they will stand behind their asian product before attempting a DIY modification.
 

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Since the right side slot is by far the most used slot (generally) it could be just that worn, depending on how old it is, and how much it was used. Or maybe previous owner made some modification.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Fairview and Toolseeker.
Both good thoughts. :yes:
I sent an email to Ridgid and am waiting their response.
 

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Wow...both slots are the same from the factory. That well used saw you bought must have an aluminum table. I guess you DO get what you pay for. :laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Reply to answers about two slots being different widths.

This saw has a cast iron top. I don't know the age. I suppose that could be determined by the serial number. It runs great and there in no sign of modification or abuse. I sure wish I had the original miter guide. That would probably tell a lot.
I contacted RIDGID and they told me there was nothing they could (would) do since the chain of ownership was blurred and who did what, if anything, could not be determined.
I've made a visual inspection of the two slots and there is nothing to indicate excessive wear or modification.
 

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Order a new mitre gauge from Rigid. If that doesn't work then they will help you with the issue.:yes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think I have the answer.

I went to the garage today to try to measure the two slots that are apparently different. While contemplating that I started "cleaning" the left slot. I previously had cleaned the top with Boeshield Rust Free and Scotchbright pads. The top got returned to a like new look but the slots were harder to get into so they didn't shine so brightly. I essentially got the left slot to a bright clean metal shine. As I did this (removing grime and corrosion) lo and behold the miter gauge began to grudgingly work. At this point I am close to having it slide within the slot from end to end. I still have some shining to do at the back end of the table.
My conclusion is that lack of use and inherent corrosion has narrowed the slot to where it was when I bought it. Apparently the right slot got adequate use and was kept free of corrosion.
Through all this I was gratified with the responses I got of others (you) trying to help. Many thanks for that as I'm getting this old saw to work.:yes:
 

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Spray some WD40 into the slot and let it sit overnight. Then use some wed or dry sandpaper, fine grit and it will be fine. A small block of wood wrapped with the sandpaper will work also.
 

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JOATMON
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Spray some WD40 into the slot and let it sit overnight. Then use some wed or dry sandpaper, fine grit and it will be fine. A small block of wood wrapped with the sandpaper will work also.
I agree with everything except using the "wed or dry sandpaper"....I would use steel wool....

Actually, steel wool along with WD40 or transmission fluid does a good job of cleaning and pollishing without removing any significant amounts of metal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sandpaper

Thanks again,
In this project I am using a miter gauge that did not come with the saw so its manufacturing tolerances were not controlled by RIDGID. Given that, I think I probably am removing some metal from the slot. To do that I used a Dremel with a bit that had sandpaper. I did see sparks so I know I removed some metal. I could have sanded the bar on the gauge but then it might have become sloppy in the right slot.
One other thing I think I see is that the bar of the miter gauge seems to be hugging the the right side of the slot on both right and left. I can't see any high spots so it might be that the two sides are not parallel over their heights.
At any rate I'm getting there and getting new appreciation for a "Thousandth or two" :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Modifying Slot

As a general rule I would agree with you. In this specific case I am modifying a slot that otherwise would be unusable to me. I could buy a new RIDGID miter gauge and I researched that option. Apparently, they have discontinued this line and are no longer available. In that RIDGID is made by Emerson and Emerson formerly made table saws for Craftsman there is a possibility I might find an old craftsman miter gauge that would work. Perhaps the current ones would work too. Not wanting to go through that search (I want to cut wood NOW) I decided to proceed with this minor grinding. As they say "It works for me.":whistling2:
Thanks for your though though.
 

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If you want to replace the miter gauge I would look into a aftermarket one since the ones that come with almost all saws are very well known for not being very accurate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanx ToolSeeker for that advice. As more time has passed and I've continued to work with my "left slot" I've actually got it working pretty good. It still binds slightly near the end of its travel. In that location I probably will never go since the typical cut is completed before the miter gauge reaches that point.
Each of the above suggested remedies I have tried and each one added a little more improvement to the overall solution. Most recently I have simply worked the gauge throughout its travel repeatedly using WD40 as a lubricant. Of course I removed the WD40 after each workout.
My conclusion of what was wrong is twofold. First, the slot needed a good cleaning and burnishing with a Dremel wire brush.
Second, the rear end (beyond the center of the blade) needed more aggressive cleaning and in a minor amount of some grinding (Dremel again) of the sidewalls of the slot. I concluded the previous owner never used that area so normal work-in never occurred.
 

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Thanx ToolSeeker for that advice. As more time has passed and I've continued to work with my "left slot" I've actually got it working pretty good. It still binds slightly near the end of its travel. In that location I probably will never go since the typical cut is completed before the miter gauge reaches that point.
Each of the above suggested remedies I have tried and each one added a little more improvement to the overall solution. Most recently I have simply worked the gauge throughout its travel repeatedly using WD40 as a lubricant. Of course I removed the WD40 after each workout.
My conclusion of what was wrong is twofold. First, the slot needed a good cleaning and burnishing with a Dremel wire brush.
Second, the rear end (beyond the center of the blade) needed more aggressive cleaning and in a minor amount of some grinding (Dremel again) of the sidewalls of the slot. I concluded the previous owner never used that area so normal work-in never occurred.
WD-40 is not a lubricant, The WD stand's for water displacement . Use oil if a lub is needed , I use what is called T-9 for the table lub which for rust and a good lub , make's the top real slick, been using that for yrs, The aircrift boeing company made this for their use , but i guess it is real good so they started selling it
 

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JOATMON
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WD-40 is not a lubricant, The WD stand's for water displacement . Use oil if a lub is needed , I use what is called T-9 for the table lub which for rust and a good lub , make's the top real slick, been using that for yrs, The aircrift boeing company made this for their use , but i guess it is real good so they started selling it
Not accurate....

The long-term active ingredient is a non-volatile, viscous oil which remains on the surface, providing lubrication and protection from moisture.[4] This is diluted with a volatile hydrocarbon to give a low viscosity fluid which can be sprayed and thus penetrate crevices. The volatile hydrocarbon then evaporates, leaving the oil behind. A propellant (originally a low-molecular weight hydrocarbon, now carbon dioxide) provides gas pressure in the can to force the liquid through the spray nozzle, then evaporates away.
These properties make the product useful in both home and commercial fields; lubricating and loosening joints and hinges, removing dirt and residue, and extricating stuck screws and bolts are common usages. The product also may be useful in displacing moisture, as this is its original purpose and design intent.
Last time I checked....oil was a lubricant.

Just in case your not convinced......

WD-40's formula is a trade secret. The product is not patented, to avoid completely disclosing its ingredients.[3][5] WD-40's main ingredients, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
I'm sorry I mentioned WD40

Mea Culpa for mentioning I used WD40.
Just like the "grinding" I used to free up the slot the WD40 seemed to work better at loosening up the sliding action of the miter gauge. I tried some light machine oil (in a can like 4&1 oil) but that didn't seem to help like the WD40 did. I let the WD40 set in the slot overnight then started working the gauge. The WD40 that came out of the slot was black so I know it was removing something that was impeding the smooth action I wanted. Anyway, the gauge now works great in the left slot and the right slot is not "sloppy" which was what I feared.:yes:
The mention of Boeshield T-9 was good advice too. I previously had cleaned the top with Boeshield RustFree then coated it with Boeshield T-9. After lots of elbow grease, RustFree and SkotchBright pads the table to looks "factory bright" and smooth as glass.
 

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JOATMON
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I like WD40....I use the crap out of it....cleans well...If I have some rusty tools....I clean with vinegar...wash off with water...then coat with WD40....once the solvent evaporates...it leaves the oil behind....

I know some guys don't like it.....but I have no complaints.
 
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