[lounge fly]

Hi all!
I've searched high and low for info on how to repair this particular Symmons shower unit, but no site seems to address the specific model that I have surprisingly.

I have a Symmons Temptrol Model B unit that was installed back in the early 80s. All videos/websites I've looked at seem to address a newer version than the one that I have; leaving me confused as if I'm doing the right thing.

I have a leaky shower head that is dripping constantly and everywhere I read it says to replace the spindle with the piston in it. I've gotten as far as I could and tried to unscrew the next part, but it will not budge and I'm afraid I'm going to break the piping that attaches in the back (the hot and cold pipes). Please help! I feel I'm really close, but not sure what part to do next. Pictures are below

 

[Ishmael]

First, shut off the water main (or isolation valves if there are any to that bathroom). Next, you have to make sure the valve is in the on/open position, otherwise you'll strip the threads that the bonnet screws into. Turn the bonnet counter-clockwise to loosen. If it seriously won't budge at all, sometimes a little heat (applied with a torch) on the valve body will get things to move/stretch just enough to free things up.

That looks like the typical S-96-1 valve that uses the TA-10 stem. I know there's a version that uses a larger stem that looks identical, but from the pictures it looks like the standard size. Looks like you should replace the TA-25 volume control while you're at it.

The larger stem I mentioned usually doesn't have a screw tapping in the end of the spindle; the handle on those is typically held on by a set screw that goes in against the side of the spindle. So...further confirming my belief that's a TA-10 stem.

 

[lounge fly]

Thanks for your reply
I have shut off the water at the isolation point prior to starting this project, so all is good there.
I turned the valve half way before trying to unscrew the bolt. Should i try to open it all the way? Or is half way fine?
And just to be clear, the bonnet is the bolt that I'm circled in the picture correct?

Also, how worried should I be about snapping, breaking or crimping the hot and cold pipes in the back behind the wall?

 

[Ishmael]

Thanks for your reply
I have shut off the water at the isolation point prior to starting this project, so all is good there.
I turned the valve half way before trying to unscrew the bolt. Should i try to open it all the way? Or is half way fine? Half way should be fine. All the way is better.

And just to be clear, the bonnet is the bolt that I'm circled in the picture correct? Correct.

Also, how worried should I be about snapping, breaking or crimping the hot and cold pipes in the back behind the wall? That's always a concern, but they're tougher than you think. Sometimes, a good way to break a stubborn threaded connection is to put a crescent wrench on that bonnet, hold the working end in one hand so it doesn't fall and damage anything, then give the handle a good, sharp whack with the heel of your free hand.

(Answers within the quote)

 

[lounge fly]

Thanks Ishmael--I'll give this stuff a try! You've helped shed some light on this venture for me

 

[lounge fly]

Revisited--

I finally was able to tackle the project again, but no luck. Took a crescent wrench like you suggested and whacked it with my hand and a rubber mallet. Tried pouring CLR on it, goo gone, and boiling water (I dont have access to a blow torch) and nothing.

This is a 30 year old shower unit. Is it possible that the bonnet does not screw off, but pops off? Like I should take a flathead screwdriver and try to wedge it in between and pry it off? This is not budging. The plumber may need to be called on this one

 

[lounge fly]

Nevermind!
I gave it one last shot before closing up shop and the spindle came loose! Now it's off to home depot. Perhaps I just had to let the CLR or goo gone settle in for a few minutes longer. Thanks for your help!