[paintdrying]

Gangbox to deep in the wall. Sorry to ask a question that has probably been asked so many times before. I cut back the drywall because the switches were sitting crooked in the box. As you can see the switches and receptacle sit to deep in the cover plate. The electrician I worked with would take a piece of wire and twist it on his screw driver and make a washer of sorts and put it behind the switches. What is the best way to do this. The most code compliant. A box extended would not work? I do not want to cut the drywall and move the box.

 

[electures]

Use an add-a-depth ring and pack it out with small washers or machine nuts.

 

[joecaption]

http://homebuilding.thefuntimesguide.com/2010/06/electrical_outlet_spacers.php
Lowes and HD have them.

 

[Jim Port]

A box extender like an Arlington BE1 and a BE2 would be your best bet. The code requires the box setback to be no more than 1/4" in a non-combustible surface like drywall.

 

[danpik]

Big box stores sell these in various sizes.
http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical...angId=-1&keyword=box+extentions&storeId=10051

 

[paintdrying]

The drywall has a very heavy texture so it will be hard to get the cover plate perfect. I am going to look into those Arlington BE1 and a BE2 simply for the fact that I can than get everything perfect. I was trying to avoid washers and what not. My electrician friend has been after me to get a "rope tester" so this maybe a good opportunity to go down to the supply house. Thanks

 

[michaelcherr]

For a small gap like that use the wire wrapped around a thin screwdriver. Then cut to create custom sized shim.
The box extenders are for bigger extension like new drywall ontop old.

 

[fltdek]

http://homebuilding.thefuntimesguide.com/2010/06/electrical_outlet_spacers.php
Lowes and HD have them.

I use them all the time, they work great, and would probably be only what you need!

 

[k_buz]

What the heck is a "rope tester"?

 

[electures]

I use them all the time, they work great, and would probably be only what you need!

The problem with them is that the box has to be flush in a combustible wall. Using them in conjunction with an add-a-depth ring will solve both problems.

 

[paintdrying]

A Rope tester http://www.licensedelectrician.com/Store/ID/Test-Glo.htm First of all the darn box is flopping around in the wall. My house was just slapped together and it really makes me mad. I bought a bag of those neon green spacers. They did the job I wanted but I did notice a big gap all around the box. It is like everything in this house, one simple thing turns into a project. My whole point of this job was to replace a wall switch with an outlet and I just wanted to find a neutral . Now I am looking at tearing the wall out and putting in a new box. Do they make a clip that can re secure a loose box?

 

[MCB]

A Rope tester http://www.licensedelectrician.com/Store/ID/Test-Glo.htm First of all the darn box is flopping around in the wall. My house was just slapped together and it really makes me mad. I bought a bag of those neon green spacers. They did the job I wanted but I did notice a big gap all around the box. It is like everything in this house, one simple thing turns into a project. My whole point of this job was to replace a wall switch with an outlet and I just wanted to find a neutral . Now I am looking at tearing the wall out and putting in a new box. Do they make a clip that can re secure a loose box?

Although I haven't seen/used any up here, some enterprising American has undoubtedly made a triple EZ box... That is a box you can mount to the drywall without a stud. Or it shouldn't be too crazy to remount the box to a chunk of wood attached to the nearest stud. What was it attached to before? Then use an 850D to pull the other end tight with the drywall. (little clip to pull the non-fastened end tight)

 

[funfool]

I was holding back and not going to answer, but am ready to get schooled here.
I see this issue all the time on remodel work.
For the outlet, basically the issue besides the box being to far back and happens all the time in remodel when adding new mud and texture.
And also the hole for the box was cut to big, otherwise the tabs and ears of switches would sit on the drywall and when tight the cover plate would work fine.

What is wrong with just backing out the screws on the outlet and switches?
I see it all the time when going into a remodel, I have done it many times, just seems like standard practice to me, But I do not see anyone suggesting it here in the original question.
Is it against code?

paintdrying, every electrician I know, simply backs out the screws on the switches if needed. and always leave them a little loose even if not needed on 3 or 4 gang boxes, is easier to move them around to line them up for the wall plate.
So simply loosen the screws and when you tighten down the wall plate, it pulls the switches to correct location and walk away.

I always spend 10 cents more for nylon cover plates and not cheap plastic, Am very happy with our current electrician and in 6 years using him, maybe had 2 code violations, nothing serious enough to stop the job, just correct before final.

My only point is, what do real electricians do when they find this issue?
They are there doing trim out and want to get paid for completion of job.
Will they call me and say box is to deep?
will they run to the hardware store and buy a box extender? Maybe if is to bad.
Or will they just back out the screws and make it work?
From the photo, I would just back out the screws and forget about it.

 

[MCB]

My only point is, what do real electricians do when they find this issue?

A real electrician does not leave the box loose. That is a code violation no matter where you live.
A real electrician makes the switches and receptacles solid when pushed and safe for you and your family to use them.

And sometimes, a real electrician tries to assist a homeowner when they ask for it.
Your welcome.:yes:

a real electrician.

 

[funfool]

MCB, the box is not loose. I assume it is attached to a stud or maybe even a remodel box.
Simply backing off the screws to the switches to the box, allows for adjustment. Now when the plate is installed, they are no longer loose ... your description does not apply.

 

[MCB]

MCB, the box is not loose. I assume it is attached to a stud or maybe even a remodel box.
Simply backing off the screws to the switches to the box, allows for adjustment. Now when the plate is installed, they are no longer loose ... your description does not apply.

Op says the box is flopping around. Sounds loose to me. And of course we move and loosen the screws for fine tuning o the switches and receps. This sounds a bit worse than fine tuning though

 

[funfool]

MCB you win!
I did not see the post where box was loose, after your last post I went back and re read.
I see now the box is loose, and is nothing I would leave without fixing.
So this actually moves the question on how to fix a loose box and not tune a switch.

MCB :thumbsup:

 

[paintdrying]

For now, everything is back together and relatively tight. The gangbox was connected to a stud on the one side, the other side just flops. The switches were resting on joint compound and possibly a slight edge of drywall. So basically the box was held in by the ears of the switches. Seems pretty clear to me, out comes the drywall and box, in goes a new box and drywall. Now as I look around the house I see many cracks in the cover plates on the triple gangboxes, anyone care to place a bet as to if the other boxes are loose?

 

[Jim Port]

There are boxes made that are of a thicker material and less likely to flex. Others have a tab on the side away from the stud that a false stud can be screwed to to support the far side. For larger gang boxes there are support wires that attach to the studs.

While the box should be setback no more than 1/4" in the drywall, if the hole had been cut correctly the OP would not be having this problem. The ears should have grabbed the drywall.

The code also requires the gap around the perimeter of the box to be no more than 1/8".

 

[herdfan]

One "solution" that I did not see mentioned is the Lutron screwless covers. It is kind of hard to explain how they work, but they will give you a nice solid flush look. You can attach the inner cover to the switch before it goes in the wall. Then the cover and switch are installed and the entire thing can be tightened down against the wall. Then the outer cover snaps on.

And no more getting zapped static electricity when touch the screws.