Switch/receptacle combo

Yes, that would work, but it's a bit complicated just to turn a portable lamp on and off. This would work, too:
http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Co...f=sr_1_19?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1310376476&sr=1-19

Or even this:
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1469-...f=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1310376476&sr=1-12

I guess the combo switch is what I like more.

I guess I will have to remove the tab and then jumper the brass terminal of the receptacle with the brass terminal of the switch, while the hot source goes to the other brass terminal of the switch and the neutral to the silver of the receptacle.

In the meantime, I verified and the receptacle is a middle of run, do I have a way to maintain the other receptacle (end of the run) switch independent?

Thanks
Alex

You should not have remove any tabs. Connect the hot wire to the switch terminal instead of the common switch/receptacle terminal. The tab is the same as the jumper you propose to install after cutting the jumper.

You are right, but what about the other 14/2 to the last receptacle in the circuit? If I connect it to the lower half of the combo switch it will be depending on the switch, do I have alternatives to keep the last receptacle switch independent?

Thanks
Alex

Re-thinking about it, if I pigtail the two hots and the two neutrals (source + derivate) lines will bypass the switch, the same pigtails will have a third wire for both black and a white which I will terminate as you suggested, shouldn't I obtain the result I am after?

Yes, you figured it out.

the lamp doesn't have a switch on it?

No, it has no switch, only a dimmer

Alex

joed said:

You should not have remove any tabs. Connect the hot wire to the switch terminal instead of the common switch/receptacle terminal. The tab is the same as the jumper you propose to install after cutting the jumper.

Click to expand...

I tried to do as we said, but the breaker goes off, which means there is a counter circuit, Ideas?

Alex

Metallo said:

I tried to do as we said, but the breaker goes off, which means there is a counter circuit, Ideas?

Click to expand...

I have NO IDEA what you mean. Can you describe what's happening some other way? Also, can you post a picture of exactly how you have this wired, or at least describe it in detail?

mpoulton said:

I have NO IDEA what you mean. Can you describe what's happening some other way? Also, can you post a picture of exactly how you have this wired, or at least describe it in detail?

Click to expand...

Hi,

I did exactly as described in post nr.5, receptacle is a middle of run, so I have two cables 14/2 arriving in there.
I pigtailed the two blacks and the two whites, I added a third wire to both pigtails and put the white in the brass terminal of the switch and the black in the black screw of the switch terminal.

I get electricity to all the receptacles with the switch on the OFF position, if I set it to ON the breaker goes OFF, which means there is counter-circuit.

http://www.mediafire.com/?n303zzmxrk53mq8
http://www.mediafire.com/?y4ms697sr0c92zv
http://www.mediafire.com/?o9cka7wlwrahbd5

put the white in the brass terminal of the switch

Click to expand...

There's your problem. The white wire should be on the silver screw of the receptacle section.

joed said:

There's your problem. The white wire should be on the silver screw of the receptacle section.

Click to expand...

I am now going to try, I am aware that the silver screw = white but I was tricked by the fact that if I measure with the tester between the brass and the black terminals of the switch I get current by switching to ON so I thought it made sense... but I was wrong, so let me try, I'll be back.

Alex

Metallo said:

I am now going to try, I am aware that the silver screw = white but I was tricked by the fact that if I measure with the tester between the brass and the black terminals of the switch I get current by switching to ON so I thought it made sense... but I was wrong, so let me try, I'll be back.

Alex

Click to expand...

Well, it doesn't work either, the only difference is that there is no longer counter-circuit, there is always current, whether I move the switch ON or OFF

Anything to do with the jumper?

Alex

Yes the two screw with the tab should be empty. Power to the single black screw goes through the switch(when turned on), through the tab to the receptacle.