DIY Home Improvement Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I have a standing lamp which is plugged to a receptacle.
Every evening I switch it off by simply pulling off the plug from the receptacle, obviously this is not a long term solution and I was wondering if using this switch could be a solution.
I think my receptacle is a middle of run one, I still have to open it...

The standing lamp has an halogen bulb of 300W which could possibly be increased up to 500W in the future.

Thanks for your advice

Alex
 

·
Semi-Pro Electro-Geek
Joined
·
3,403 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I guess the combo switch is what I like more.

I guess I will have to remove the tab and then jumper the brass terminal of the receptacle with the brass terminal of the switch, while the hot source goes to the other brass terminal of the switch and the neutral to the silver of the receptacle.

In the meantime, I verified and the receptacle is a middle of run, do I have a way to maintain the other receptacle (end of the run) switch independent?

Thanks
Alex
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,650 Posts
You should not have remove any tabs. Connect the hot wire to the switch terminal instead of the common switch/receptacle terminal. The tab is the same as the jumper you propose to install after cutting the jumper.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
You are right, but what about the other 14/2 to the last receptacle in the circuit? If I connect it to the lower half of the combo switch it will be depending on the switch, do I have alternatives to keep the last receptacle switch independent?

Thanks
Alex

Re-thinking about it, if I pigtail the two hots and the two neutrals (source + derivate) lines will bypass the switch, the same pigtails will have a third wire for both black and a white which I will terminate as you suggested, shouldn't I obtain the result I am after?
 

·
Semi-Pro Electro-Geek
Joined
·
3,403 Posts
Yes, you figured it out.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Metallo

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
You should not have remove any tabs. Connect the hot wire to the switch terminal instead of the common switch/receptacle terminal. The tab is the same as the jumper you propose to install after cutting the jumper.
I tried to do as we said, but the breaker goes off, which means there is a counter circuit, Ideas?

Alex
 

·
Semi-Pro Electro-Geek
Joined
·
3,403 Posts
I tried to do as we said, but the breaker goes off, which means there is a counter circuit, Ideas?
I have NO IDEA what you mean. Can you describe what's happening some other way? Also, can you post a picture of exactly how you have this wired, or at least describe it in detail?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I have NO IDEA what you mean. Can you describe what's happening some other way? Also, can you post a picture of exactly how you have this wired, or at least describe it in detail?
Hi,

I did exactly as described in post nr.5, receptacle is a middle of run, so I have two cables 14/2 arriving in there.
I pigtailed the two blacks and the two whites, I added a third wire to both pigtails and put the white in the brass terminal of the switch and the black in the black screw of the switch terminal.

I get electricity to all the receptacles with the switch on the OFF position, if I set it to ON the breaker goes OFF, which means there is counter-circuit.

http://www.mediafire.com/?n303zzmxrk53mq8
http://www.mediafire.com/?y4ms697sr0c92zv
http://www.mediafire.com/?o9cka7wlwrahbd5
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
There's your problem. The white wire should be on the silver screw of the receptacle section.
I am now going to try, I am aware that the silver screw = white but I was tricked by the fact that if I measure with the tester between the brass and the black terminals of the switch I get current by switching to ON so I thought it made sense... but I was wrong, so let me try, I'll be back.

Alex
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I am now going to try, I am aware that the silver screw = white but I was tricked by the fact that if I measure with the tester between the brass and the black terminals of the switch I get current by switching to ON so I thought it made sense... but I was wrong, so let me try, I'll be back.

Alex
Well, it doesn't work either, the only difference is that there is no longer counter-circuit, there is always current, whether I move the switch ON or OFF :(

Anything to do with the jumper?

Alex
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Solved :yes:

I am not sure whether this is due to the switch being a Leviton, but the solution is:

  • Hot to the brass of the switch (left side)
  • White to the silver of the receptacle (left side)
Nothing goes to the two black screws on the right side which are connected together by the tab.
This is the solution to get the switch to command the receptacle in a middle-of-the-run outlet.

Cheers
Alex
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,650 Posts
Yes the two screw with the tab should be empty. Power to the single black screw goes through the switch(when turned on), through the tab to the receptacle.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top