[Fix'n it]

i need to replace that joist, it is swiss cheese. and i am going to replace all of that pvc and copper, so that it is above the bottom of the joists = so it won't be in the way.
today, i am going to remove the 2x4's and put in screw posts.

my issue is = how/can i get a 7 1/4 x 1 1/2" x 14' joist up in there ? 13'2" span. i have about 7' that i can slid it up over the main beam in the middle of the house. then slid it over to its new home, is what i am thinking. i can lower the conduit some.

 

[paintdrying]

Oh boy, I would think you could notch the end of the 2x8 so it will give you the clearance you need to get past the main beam.

 

[carpdad]

What kind of wall is above the cut up double joists? If non weight bearing wall (a partition with no ceiling joists on it), then I would just double the adjacent joists on both sides, remove the cut up beam and support the floor with 2x4s across the bay, every 12". Extra 2x4s under the tub.
You can also put the pvc and other tubes into the joist bay and have a full height ceiling.
I think the posts were put in to fix the cuts. They were not the original load transferring posts.

 

[Fix'n it]

the hard part, that i am looking for advice on = is how do i get a 2x8 to stand up in its place ? as they get taller as they are tilted over. i am wondering if they are just BEAT into place, or what. or i could cut a small notch in each end, then put shims to tighten it up.

anyway, the project has started. i took out the 2x4's and the butchered half of the joist. and busted up the floor for the pipe.

 

[Fix'n it]

so, no one has replaced a floor joist ?

 

[carpdad]

The ends that will sit on the plates, try knocking down the edge of the top and bottom opposite ends. The new joist should be no more than 1/16 wider than the bay depth, and leave at least 3/4" of the flat edge.

 

[jagans]

First of all, arent the existing floor joists rough hewn full sized lumber? SO why would you have any problem sistering a 2 x 8 to a full sized 2 x 10? Maybe we just dont understand you, and maybe most of us are in shock looking at the plumbing we see in these pictures, and the fact that someone just hacked out the middle of a floor joist and left it like that to improperly install plumbing lines. Sometimes we just go into shock.

You are going to want to crown your joist, place it, jack it and shim it on both ends, It is best to glue and nail them together with liquid nails construction adhesive. Clamp first if you can.

 

[Fix'n it]

The ends that will sit on the plates, try knocking down the edge of the top and bottom opposite ends. The new joist should be no more than 1/16 wider than the bay depth, and leave at least 3/4" of the flat edge.

i was thinking exactly that :thumbup: and a big hammer.

 

[Fix'n it]

First of all, arent the existing floor joists rough hewn full sized lumber? SO why would you have any problem sistering a 2 x 8 to a full sized 2 x 10?

Maybe we just dont understand you,

and maybe most of us are in shock looking at the plumbing we see in these pictures, and the fact that someone just hacked out the middle of a floor joist and left it like that to improperly install plumbing lines. Sometimes we just go into shock.

no, these are modern sized timbers. the new one/s will be the same exact size.

perhaps, idk.

i didn't do that plumbing. someone before me did. but, i am not having a problem with it working correctly.

 

[Fix'n it]

oh. the reason i am replacing it all. is because i want that pipe out of the middle of the room, and to have the pipes up in the joist bay.
when its all done, a pool table is going right there.

 

[Fix'n it]

got em in. pics here
http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/what-am-i-dealing-here-171619/index3/

 

[hand drive]

a lot of times I leave play on the ends (not a tight cut) and shim later with shim and glue. just jack up the old cut joist to level and then install new next to it...

beating the piece in(sledgehammer) on the ends trying to make it past the angle placed on the joists with a tight fit has always led to splitting the joist in my case so don't do it that way anymore. finesse is so needed in so many things

 

[Fix'n it]

a lot of times I leave play on the ends (not a tight cut) and shim later with shim and glue.

just jack up the old cut joist to level and then install new next to it...

beating the piece in(sledgehammer) on the ends trying to make it past the angle placed on the joists with a tight fit has always led to splitting the joist in my case so don't do it that way anymore. finesse is so needed in so many things

what do you mean ? you notch the ends, then shim ?

the problem with jacking to level is that the original joist is often permanently warped down,from years of having weight on it. as in, if every load was removed from the joist, it still would not be flat. so if you jack to level, sister, remove jack. the original joist would be putting a load on the new board = not good.

yeah, but in my case, i made a little wiggle room, by jacking.

 

[hand drive]

what do you mean ? you notch the ends, then shim ?

the problem with jacking to level is that the original joist is often permanently warped down,from years of having weight on it. as in, if every load was removed from the joist, it still would not be flat. so if you jack to level, sister, remove jack. the original joist would be putting a load on the new board = not good.

yeah, but in my case, i made a little wiggle room, by jacking.

I measure the distance on both sides from the underside of subfloor to bearing point(sill plate) and then minus 1/2" from the height and that gives 1/2" play on the ends to get the joist in. once in I adjust joist up tight to subfloor all the way across span I then shim the edges underneath the notch cut down to the plate for full bearing. trying to get as much sag out of old framing members is the most we can ask for and not get it perfect by any means

I agree with jacking- jack up the old, place in the new and then jack that up as well till it is tight and then stick it.