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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just had an inspection on my rental property to get it up to code for renting, and I was told I need to spot paint the floor and walls in the basement due to chipping paint. The house is a 95 year old rowhome that was last rehabbed in 2006. The basement is unfinished, so the shared brick walls are exposed and there's a rough-poured concrete floor.

When i bought the house 4 years ago the previous homeowners had whitewashed the walls and joists and painted the concrete floor gray. I'm assuming the walls and joists were painted with Kilz Original, because they left a bunch of cans of the stuff in the basement. There are now areas of peeling paint on the brick walls, mostly at the base but also other random locations. The paint on the floor has started chipping and peeling in the area around the footpath between the stairs and washer/dryer, but it's fine in other locations. I don't think the previous homeowners bothered to do the necessary surface prep, since it's peeling off so soon.

Also there is a rear door and window that aren't used (sealed off), but almost certainly have lead paint on them somewhere. There's probably lead paint under the paint on the walls and joists too. I can see the concrete gloor paint layers, and it looks like the last paint job was the only paint job it's ever seen. It's bare concrete underneath.

As i previously mentioned, the floor is a very rough pour. Likewise, the courses of brick are very uneven, probably because oldschool bricklayers only did the show pieces like the facade back then. Therefore, scraping is out, and sanding would be incredibly labor intensive if not also impossible.

I'm looking for a product that can truly seal in the flaking edges of paint and provide a very strong and long lasting bond. Ideally, a product I can use on both floor and wall would be best, but it's not necessary. I definitely need something good that's thick and durable for the floor... Something that can encapsulate the peeling paint and serve as primer for a final top coat. My neighbor had had water issues in his basement. I've never had any in my house, though the peeling paint at the base of the wall may be due to small amounts of moisture (speculation). So I'd prefer a product for the walls that will seal off any water infiltration.

I've looked at the offerings a bit, and I see Bullseye 123 and BIN mentioned a lot, but I'm not a big fan of most Rust-Oleum products. Perhaps these are exceptions? I'm partial to Sherman Williams latex paints, but their concrete primers and paints don't even get that great of reviews on their own website. What suggestions do you have for my job?

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
IMO it's repaint time, not touch up or spot painting.
Do you know if the existing paint is latex or oil base?
Still need a product either way.

I do not know if they're latex or oil based, but as i mentioned i suspect the walls are Killz Original which is oil based. No idea about the floor.

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If you don't want to do too much working taking it back to bare concrete clean with a mild detergent like dirtex. rinse. scrape anything loose, and rough up the surface with 100 grit.

Prime with corotech v155 and top coat with a porch&floor enamel or 2 part waterborne epoxy like corotech v440.


keep expectations to a minimum if you don't want to do full surface prep.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you don't want to do too much working taking it back to bare concrete clean with a mild detergent like dirtex. rinse. scrape anything loose, and rough up the surface with 100 grit.

Prime with corotech v155 and top coat with a porch&floor enamel or 2 part waterborne epoxy like corotech v440.


keep expectations to a minimum if you don't want to do full surface prep.
No, as stated I'm just doing a spot coat. I'll try to get the loose pieces as much as possible, but that's liable to be a never-ending task. So I'm going to have to get the edges to a point where i can just encase them.

Full strip and recoat is an immense amount of work and economy infeasible for the intended use. The space is full of racks with supplies and other personal belongings that would all need to be moved upstairs to do a job like that. And you cannot simply sand it really quick like a smooth garage floor, it's way too rough for that. I'd be eating sandpaper like crazy and still wouldn't be able to get in any valleys. So that would mean hand sanding walls and floor on a 14x53 floor plan... No chance I'm going to do that.

I understand this isn't ideal and may not last. But I'm just looking for the best product for this scenario.

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No, as stated I'm just doing a spot coat. I'll try to get the loose pieces as much as possible, but that's liable to be a never-ending task. So I'm going to have to get the edges to a point where i can just encase them.

Full strip and recoat is an immense amount of work and economy infeasible for the intended use. The space is full of racks with supplies and other personal belongings that would all need to be moved upstairs to do a job like that. And you cannot simply sand it really quick like a smooth garage floor, it's way too rough for that. I'd be eating sandpaper like crazy and still wouldn't be able to get in any valleys. So that would mean hand sanding walls and floor on a 14x53 floor plan... No chance I'm going to do that.

I understand this isn't ideal and may not last. But I'm just looking for the best product for this scenario.

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Walls don't need to be sanded, just scuff around the bare areas, prime and paint.

Floors though... TBH if your not going to do any prep just throw down some rustoleum oil based paint over the bare spots.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Walls don't need to be sanded, just scuff around the bare areas, prime and paint.

Floors though... TBH if your not going to do any prep just throw down some rustoleum oil based paint over the bare spots.
The brick would be easier to prep, especially since the peeling is less severe. The floor would be a nightmare to prep, but I'll at least try to get the loose edges. Obviously the idea is to not have any peeling paint for the lead inspection, so painted over peeling paint might cause me to fail anyway. But if the peeled surfaces are smoothed out as much as possible and encased in a good bonding primer and top coat, it should be unnoticeable. At least until the rest begins to peel

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Don't put peel stop or other elastomeric paint on the floor. What a nightmare that would be to fix.


I have used dalys shipnshore over surfaces like that succsessfuly. It will penetrate concrete and bind down the edges of loose paint and can be painted over. It will also stabilize and harden up any concrete that is water damaged and 'loose' or 'crumbly'.


Goes on very thin like mineral spirits, give it 24 hours to dry then paint over it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Don't put peel stop or other elastomeric paint on the floor. What a nightmare that would be to fix.


I have used dalys shipnshore over surfaces like that succsessfuly. It will penetrate concrete and bind down the edges of loose paint and can be painted over. It will also stabilize and harden up any concrete that is water damaged and 'loose' or 'crumbly'.


Goes on very thin like mineral spirits, give it 24 hours to dry then paint over it.
That sounds like the kind of product I'm looking for. Does it like break down the old paint into a liquid like paint thinner does? Something like that would seem to be the best solution.

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
binds stuff down, really good adhesion, easy to use... have also used it on an old crumbly concrete shower. still going several years later.
Well fortunately for me, despite being a rough pour, the concrete is solid. There's no spalling or even cracking to speak of that I've seen. It's just a very rough surface from the aggregate or perhaps just a poor mix design with not enough cement. The aggregate is exposed (where the paint is peeled) but it isn't loose at all.

So i need something that ideally reconstitutes the old paint and also acts as a bonding primer on the bare concrete and on the old paint surface where I'll be overlapping.

That product is heavily advertised for wood surfaces, in particular in marine environments. Probably would be to order online. Did you add additional primer on top of it?

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Well fortunately for me, despite being a rough pour, the concrete is solid. There's no spalling or even cracking to speak of that I've seen. It's just a very rough surface from the aggregate or perhaps just a poor mix design with not enough cement. The aggregate is exposed (where the paint is peeled) but it isn't loose at all.

So i need something that ideally reconstitutes the old paint and also acts as a bonding primer on the bare concrete and on the old paint surface where I'll be overlapping.

That product is heavily advertised for wood surfaces, in particular in marine environments. Probably would be to order online. Did you add additional primer on top of it?

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Yes mainly for use on wood. I have customers who use it on steel and masonry as well.

You can paint directly over it with an oil based floor paint or enamel like rustoleum.


Only product I know that is better is a 2 part primer like corotech v155.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yes mainly for use on wood. I have customers who use it on steel and masonry as well.

You can paint directly over it with an oil based floor paint or enamel like rustoleum.


Only product I know that is better is a 2 part primer like corotech v155.
So topcoat should definitely be oil based? Guess it makes sense. Just gonna stink for a while, and I'm definitely going to have to do it in stages so i can get out of the basement while it dries.

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You should be able to touch up or repaint the walls with any latex paint if what is on there now is just an oil base primer and not an oil base enamel. The floor really needs to be cleaned up [remove all loose paint] and then repainted. Oil base floor paints tend to wear better than their latex counterpart.
 
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