[tapple2]

I have a tub stopper or plunger (the lever operated kind) that was left in the closed position and is corroded in the pipe. I've tried heat, brute force, PB blaster, vinegar, and everything else I can think of and this thing won't budge. I even took a smaller pipe and tried to hammer the thing loose and it won't move. I mushroomed the end of a galvanized 1" pipe with a hammer, I hit it so hard.

I have access to the tee fitting it's stuck in but removing the tee itself isn't practical because I'd have to remove a wall and the tub. Is there some kind of reamer or drill bit available that I could use to drill this thing out?

BTW I broke off the ears that the lift linkage attached to when I first tried to remove this thing.

 

[joecaption]

Post a picture.

 

[tapple2]

picture added to post

I added the photo to the original post.

 

[retired guy 60]

I would take an oscillating tool (you could buy a cheap one at Harbor freight) and make four notches through the brass portion that you want to remove. Be careful not to damage the threads of the pipe. Then use a small chisel or old screwdriver and tap on the brass. As the portions separate the brass can be easily removed.

 

[TheEplumber]

If you want it out- I'd try a hole saw that fits into the tee.
However, that looks and sounds like you abused it pretty good. You've probably compromised its seal at the drain. Best to replace the whole assembly.

 

[ben's plumbing]

yep dig it out and replace it only real way to be safe no leaks...ben sr

 

[AllanJ]

I have a tub stopper or plunger (the lever operated kind) that was left in the closed position and is corroded in the pipe. I've tried heat, brute force, PB blaster, vinegar, and everything else I can think of and this thing won't budge. I even took a smaller pipe and tried to hammer the thing loose and it won't move. I mushroomed the end of a galvanized 1" pipe with a hammer, I hit it so hard..

By now you probably mushroomed the stopper itself, thus making its removal hopeless.

Not to mention possibly cracking pipe joints before and after it.

Too late now but you might have drilled a hole in the stopper, tapped the hole, and bolted in something (perhaps a collection of parts) that would allow you to use some kind of impact tool upside down up above to lift it out. The hole would have to be quite large, at least for a size 12 bolt with at least an inch worth of threading (the hole itself would probably have to go all the way through), and tapped carefully so the stopper does not mushroom during the drilling and tapping process.

If you do try to saw it into pieces, be aware that it is very difficult to get the saw cuts close enough to the edge to make the stopper disintegrate while not making longitudinal cuts in the drain pipe itself that by definition would be leaks

 

[jagans]

Look inside the pipe. See the buildup of crapola in there? Now, break out more concrete till you get to where that pipe ties in to a larger pipe. Cut the larger pipe off, and install a reducing fernco coupling and new PVC pipe to your tub. What you have was shot years ago.

 

[retired guy 60]

While replacing the pipe is the preferrable route, the one thing you have on your side is that the part you want to remove is brass, a relatively soft metal while the outer casing is iron. So if you can get a screwdriver between the parts, the brass will break before the iron does. What concerns me is that if you put a wrench the iron pipe to remove it, the torque may do damage to parts within the wall. That's how small jobs turn into big ones. Please let us know how things turn out.

 

[retired guy 60]

Thinking about this a little more. Use two wrenches and remove the elbow leaving the straight iron pipe intact if you don't want to just remove the brass as has been suggested by others.

 

[AllanJ]

While replacing the pipe is the preferrable route, the one thing you have on your side is that the part you want to remove is brass, a relatively soft metal while the outer casing is iron. So if you can get a screwdriver between the parts, the brass will break before the iron does. What concerns me is that if you put a wrench the iron pipe to remove it, the torque may do damage to parts within the wall. That's how small jobs turn into big ones. Please let us know how things turn out.

With just brute force, both the brass and the iron will deform before all is said and done. Furthermore cast iron (pipe) is quite brittle and could crack. The brass will likely deform a lot without fracturing.

 

[retired guy 60]

Brute force alone is not recommended. See my earlier post:"I would take an oscillating tool (you could buy a cheap one at Harbor freight) and make four notches through the brass portion that you want to remove. Be careful not to damage the threads of the pipe. Then use a small chisel or old screwdriver and tap on the brass. As the portions separate the brass can be easily removed." An oscillating tool can be used with almost surgical precission with some experience. I successfully removed a portion of my daughter's cast using my Fein MultiMaster at her request when she could not schedule a doctor's appointment. Disclaimer: I am not recommending that the tool be used for any purposes other than the ones it is intended for.
Since the OP asked how to remove the brass w/o replacing the iron, I suggested the way I would do it. OF course if the threads are damaged, the fitting needs replacement and this can be done if need be.

 

[AllanJ]

Theoretically you could drill it out starting with a thin drill bit and using larger and larger bits. In practice, the first hole is likely to not be centered in the stopper so you won't be able to drill out the full diameter of the stopper before you hit one side.

 

[TheEplumber]

The body is cast brass- not iron. He's beat on the stopper with an iron pipe- apparently seating the stopper for good. The gasket on the shoe is probably toast, maybe the compression gasket too--dig it out and replace it.

 

[ben's plumbing]

Only one real way to repair this its be said......dig it out and replace it...ben sr