[kennykenny]

I have a Stihl FS56 trimmer in which I am attempting to remove the back cover. The cover is held on by three torx head screws. Upon removing two of the heads stripped. The screws are down into channels about an inch making access difficult to get to the head to manipulate removal. Ideas? I have tried the rubber band trick, hammering a standard screwdriver into the head to get a grip. Other ideas? Thanks.

 

[Nealtw]

I have a Stihl FS56 trimmer in which I am attempting to remove the back cover. The cover is held on by three torx head screws. Upon removing two of the heads stripped. The screws are down into channels about an inch making access difficult to get to the head to manipulate removal. Ideas? I have tried the rubber band trick, hammering a standard screwdriver into the head to get a grip. Other ideas? Thanks.

Drill the head off and when the cover is off deal with the screw with pliers.

 

[Bud9051]

Often both the torque bit and the screw are at fault. I have occasionally used a grinder to take off a little of my bit to return to sharper corners and then used a socket extension to get it in place and then tapped it with a hammer. Then carefully get the torque driver in place without moving the bit and with pressure I've occasionally bee lucky.

If no luck then Neal's drill option may be needed.

If you got one out, be sure to check it to see if it is a tamper proof, would have a center pin to prevent the bit from seating.

Bud

 

[lenaitch]

When Torx first came out a mechanic told me that when you think you have the right bit, try the next larger one. Using a slightly undersized bit can strip the bolts.

 

[kennykenny]

Drill the head off and when the cover is off deal with the screw with pliers.

Unfortunately, as mentioned, I can't gain access to the head since it is about an inch down a hole.

 

[Nealtw]

Unfortunately, as mentioned, I can't gain access to the head since it is about an inch down a hole.

Most drill bits are 3" long. pick a bit just bigger and the screw hole and drill just until the head falls off

 

[Nealtw]

6
Destroy the screw with a drill bit for particularly stubborn screws. If nothing seems to work, use bits to demolish the screw. For instance, you can use a large bit to drill down into the screw, essentially destroying it. You can also use a bit to take the head of the screw off and then pull the shank out with pliers.[10]



https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-a-Broken-Screw

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[SPS-1]

Get a set of EZ Outs.

You might have to drill the screw head a little just to get the hole round. But first try to just put the extractor in the hole.

Likely you will need to grind the tip of the extractor so that the extractor is just the right diameter for the hole.

 

[iamrfixit]

I've had good luck with this style extractor for smaller screw removal. Had to remove numerous 3" stainless deck screws when I built my deck. The SS square drive screws I got from Menards were of a soft material and stripped out extremely easy. Switched to Grip-Rite brand with Torx heads and the difference was night and day.

Torx screws usually work very well, but you gotta have a quality driver and the correct size. Many mfr will use an oddball T-27 and that size is often not included in a basic torx driver set, you have to get into the professional tools to find that size. A T25 will strip those out with regularity.

 

[Joeywhat]

Do yourself a favor and invest in a set of GOOD quality Torx drivers. Not from home depot or lowe's or harbor freight... Something not made of garbage pot metal, like the ones that are readily available.

If a Torx fastener is stuck, make sure you're using the good drivers and the right size. I've never stripped a Torx when using my good quality drivers. It was about $40 for the set (they're security Torx, so even more useful) and the drivers have shown zero wear through about a year of professional use and several years of home use. I'll note that the drivers I get with a box of Torx head screws are often better quality than the set I have from home depot. Just sayin'.

 

[kennykenny]

Do yourself a favor and invest in a set of GOOD quality Torx drivers. Not from home depot or lowe's or harbor freight... Something not made of garbage pot metal, like the ones that are readily available.

If a Torx fastener is stuck, make sure you're using the good drivers and the right size. I've never stripped a Torx when using my good quality drivers. It was about $40 for the set (they're security Torx, so even more useful) and the drivers have shown zero wear through about a year of professional use and several years of home use. I'll note that the drivers I get with a box of Torx head screws are often better quality than the set I have from home depot. Just sayin'.

Great idea. Thanks for the input. How do you know that the drivers are "good" quality? What do you look for in metal when shopping for them?

 

[Joeywhat]

It's hard to say beyond knowing how/where certain brands/products are made and sometimes just getting lucky. Occasionally companies will have a spec sheet indicating the materials used and any processes applied to the tools.

When looking at country of origin, China often means its crap. Not always, though. Taiwan is a safer bet, they have pretty decent manufacturing practices and learned a lot from the US many years ago when manufacturing shifted to Asia got a lot of things. Other Asian origins are a crap shoot, usually.

Harbor Freight Pittsburgh professional line tools are usually pretty good, for instance. Often made in Taiwan, too. The "regular" Pittsburgh tools are of much lower quality and usually come from China. Buying made in US tools is an option but usually very spendy.

The torx drivers I have are Neiko brand and made in Taiwan. I belive I got them from Amazon. Do note that this company makes tools in various countries, so some may come from China as well. Decent quality, and if they do break weren't so expensive that I'll cry over it. They're socket style which I like for most cases, but be aware they won't fit in areas with tight access.

Just do a bit of research and at least find out country of origin, and take a look at the tool to see how it's built. If it looks cheap it probably is. If it feels lighter than it should its probably junk metal. Look for reviews when buying online.

 

[Joeywhat]

Also, if you're looking for good quality tools remember to check your local manufacturing parts stores and tool shops. Here in Michigan we have Fastenal (they sell tools along with fasteners), Grainger, Motion Industry, Production Tool Supply, etc. They will carry name brand tools and some imported stuff as well. Bondhus is a good name for allen/torx drivers and they are made in the US. Usually not super expensive, either. Worth looking into.