[chakotay]

We've lived in our house for 16 years. In that time we've used the giant garden bathtub in our master bath maybe 5 times. I'm sick of looking at it take up a 1/3rd of our space in there. After years of wishing we could afford someone else to do it, we've finally decided to do it ourselves!
will post picts next....

 

[chakotay]

the picts of where we're at. Took a hammer, crowbar, and reciprocal saw to it...

 

[oh'mike]

Great project----keep us informed---what are you planning to do with that window?

 

[rjniles]

You may not want to hear this but, a shower requires a 2" drain vs the 1.5" that most tubs have.

 

[chakotay]

The window stays. Since it was never able to open anyway, we were thinking about glass block. Rjniles, the drain pipes are already 2" (inside diameter, correct?) This is a relatively new house--built 2000--if that makes a difference.

 

[rjniles]

The window stays. Since it was never able to open anyway, we were thinking about glass block. Rjniles, the drain pipes are already 2" (inside diameter, correct?) This is a relatively new house--built 2000--if that makes a difference.

You are really lucky on that. You dodged a bullet that hits may others.

 

[chakotay]

Hit my first snag . . . but that won't stop me! Looks like the jokers who framed the house (or laid the plumbing) missed their mark. The water pipes are not entirely INSIDE the wall, but a little less than an inch OUTSIDE. As of now, they're extending into where my pan will be. See pict. What are my options? I'm thinking carefully break up the concrete and shove them back into the wall? What would the best tool for this be, given that there's copper pipes embedded in there?

 

[ddawg16]

If that is the worse thing you find....you will be in great shape.

On that window? Personally, I'd replace it with a new vinyl double pane. Fresh air will do wonders for keeping mold down. If you do replace it, make sure it's tempered glass.

 

[mako1]

A rotary hemmer with a small chisel would be your best bet .Chisel along the sides of the copper.Not towards it.Whoever sweated that copper was no plumber .

 

[chakotay]

Yeah. I'm sure whoever sweated the pipes was whoever the contractor picked up outside 7-11 that morning!

ddawg16, Yes! We desperately want to keep the window, but add some venting. We live in Texas and in the summer it can get stifling in the bathroom after a shower. We like this idea in the picture below.

I read somewhere on this forum about the bottom height of the window needing to be at least 60" from the floor of the shower. Not sure if that's code in my area, but would using glass block negate this requirement?

 

[ddawg16]

Yeah. I'm sure whoever sweated the pipes was whoever the contractor picked up outside 7-11 that morning!

ddawg16, Yes! We desperately want to keep the window, but add some venting. We live in Texas and in the summer it can get stifling in the bathroom after a shower. We like this idea in the picture below.

I read somewhere on this forum about the bottom height of the window needing to be at least 60" from the floor of the shower. Not sure if that's code in my area, but would using glass block negate this requirement?

Not sure about code....may not apply to existing...but I do like to look of that setup.

 

[chakotay]

Bought a cheap rotary hammer from Harbor Freight and got the pipes free of the concrete!

Next question: I want to move the drain to the center. Can I just cut a channel in the concrete, put an elbow joint on the existing drain pipe and run it there (with a slope of course).

Or does the P-trap have to be moved to directly under the new drain location? Currently, the P-trap is about a 1-1/2 feet down next to the wall. Looks like the vent is a couple of feet from it. (see picts)

I’ve read something about only being able to run pipe so far from a vent.

 

[ddawg16]

The p-trap should be under the drain

If it was me, I'd just enlarge the existing hole.

I've learned that it's easier to patch a big hole and have plenty of room to work with than patch smaller holes and kill yourself trying to work in that small space.

 

[WhatRnsdownhill]

just cut out that old trap and extend 2 inch so outlet of trap is inline with shower drain, makes cleaning trap or possible clogs easier....what kind of shower pan are you going to use?

 

[chakotay]

I'm building my own shower pan! Never done it before, but I have watched lots of videos and it seems like something I can manage. I HAVE done tile work before, but this will be a first for me in a shower.

 

[WhatRnsdownhill]

are you going to use flexible pvc shower liner?

 

[chakotay]

My plan is to build the curb, pour a pre-slope, lay the liner, then pour the pan. All this using the "goof-proof" system Home Depot sells.

I will have to call a plumber pretty soon to replace the valve and run the pipes up to the shower head. I'm just trying to do as much of the work myself as possible to keep the cost down.

 

[WhatRnsdownhill]

My plan is to build the curb, pour a pre-slope, lay the liner, then pour the pan. All this using the "goof-proof" system Home Depot sells.

I will have to call a plumber pretty soon to replace the valve and run the pipes up to the shower head. I'm just trying to do as much of the work myself as possible to keep the cost down.

what do you mean by " pour a pan?" what are you using for a drain strainer?

 

[chakotay]

"Pour" may not be correct technical term ... it's just what I've read and heard guys on the 'net call the process. I mean to sculpt the pan out of mud/mortar.

 

[WhatRnsdownhill]

usually, I install the pvc liner over tar paper on the sub floor, and the concrete goes in the pan and slanted down to the drain....