[Snocretes218]

Good Evening,

I am looking for some feedback from the helpful folks on here. I am wondering if I can remove a few studs from the left of this wall to open up the stairway a little bit to allow for furniture etc. to be brought down into the basement. It runs parallel to the floor joists and is below a double joist, so I think I’m okay to do so, but was looking for a few more opinions! Thanks in advance! PS. That doubled 2x4 with the light switch was my doing, it was a single stud prior

 

[Nealtw]

How far to the right does this double joist go. Is the wall bolted down?

 

[Snocretes218]

How far to the right does this double joist go. Is the wall bolted down?

The wall is not bolted down, and there is only 2 nails through the base plate into the concrete across the whole wall. The doubles joists do go across the whole basement (from exterior wall to exterior wall) including over the beam

 

[Snocretes218]

Also, right above that stairway is another going to the 2nd floor. It looks like this stairway had a few studs removed to create the open look.

 

[Nealtw]

It would appear like it is not load bearing, the double stud, second from the end is the only thing that would make you wonder.

 

[Snocretes218]

It would appear like it is not load bearing, the double stud, second from the end is the only thing that would make you wonder.

That double stud is my doing, I wanted to remove that last stud, so I doubled up the one next to it just in case to add support. Lol

 

[Nealtw]

That double stud is my doing, I wanted to remove that last stud, so I doubled up the one next to it just in case to add support. Lol

There you go, the last stud should always be doubled in any wall.

 

[mishenka]

I have the same exact situation. The double joist is the load bearing bean - the support beam. I also removed most of that wall - you can see on the picture how far to the left it used to go. To be sure, I suggest simply look at the blueprints. If it is loadbearing then the blueprints will clearly indicate it.

 

[Snocretes218]

Gotcha, yeah unfortunately I don’t have access to the blueprints. Your situation is a little different, in that you have a support post where your wall was removed. My wall is in the middle between the two supports (the exterior wall and the middle post). As the good ol physics says, the longer the distance away the force is applied from the supports the more downward force, so that’s why I was concerned lol

 

[Nealtw]

I have the same exact situation. The double joist is the load bearing bean - the support beam. I also removed most of that wall - you can see on the picture how far to the left it used to go. To be sure, I suggest simply look at the blueprints. If it is loadbearing then the blueprints will clearly indicate it. View attachment 639667

He has standard stair framing. Are your stairs as steep as they look?

 

[mishenka]

@Nealtw They are 44 degrees. I never thought of them as very steep, but now since you mentioned it Maybe that's why my dog doesn't go downstairs?

 

[Nealtw]

@Nealtw They are 44 degrees. I never thought of them as very steep, but now since you mentioned it Maybe that's why my dog doesn't go downstairs?

Measure the run and rise, 40 would be pushing it you would like to be around 37*

 

[mishenka]

Just measured. RIse 8inches, run 10 inches. I know it's 44 degrees because this is the angle I set on my saw when cutting that slanted piece.

 

[Nealtw]

Just measured. RIse 8inches, run 10 inches. I know it's 44 degrees because this is the angle I set on my saw when cutting that slanted piece.

7 3/4 max for rise and we usually cut the tread at 10 and put an 11 inch tread on it.

 

[mishenka]

I guess it is steep, but I never questioned it since I didn't know any better.

 

[Nealtw]

I guess it is steep, but I never questioned it since I didn't know any better.

Next time look for a stair calculator on line.
I looks like you had room for more but we can't see your head room above.

 

[carpdad]

Double floor joist for the stairwell is load bearing, to a point. It is self supporting for the well/floor and light partition walls around/above it. Not if there is a middle of the house wall that supports the ceiling/floor joists of the space above (living space attic or second floor or roof rafters braced to it). If your house is average design, your metal i beam should be that. I think your plan works except the hole drilled through it for pvc pipe and maybe you can reinforce the spot with metal bracing. It is close to the foundation, but i don't know the rules for the load bearing beams.

S33021 - Jones Stephens S33021 - Single Stud Shoe, 18 Gauge, Box of 50 (Galvanized)

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I'm sure it is sold in singles.

 

[Snocretes218]

Thanks for the tips everyone, decided just to open it up one stud, which provides the “open” feeling I wanted.

 

[mishenka]

If you remove three more it would look more open and better

 

[carpdad]

Just fyi, if you raise the landing one riser and add couple more stairs, a turn, more landing space. What the headroom will allow, which is 6'8", i think, verify. I think the opening you have is enough for any small furniture or such. With me, it was the laundry basket, so landing wasn't as convenient as the wider feel turning space. If more stairs, you'll need to extend the handrail that turns down also. The handrail does not have to be one piece. Can be separate pieces but spaced no more than 1/4". In nj and passed the inspection with home made handrail. It just needs to be continuous.