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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all! Need some advice. We had our floors and stair treads refinished/stained, and I was going to tackle the painting of the risers & stringers (& possibly the handrail!). I clearly didn’t put enough thought and energy into this, as I now realize that I think they missed staining the decorative trim that is under the treads. I googled pics and it seems most often, those should be stained to match Treads vs being painted as part of the risers.

what do you guys think? Depending on the responses, will dictate the direction this project goes..,

Brown Wood Fixture Automotive exterior Wood stain
 

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It could go either way. If you stained the other moulding the tread would just look beefier. What colour are you painting the risers and stringers? Personally, I wouldn’t have added that moulding but it’s probably there for a reason.


Retired guy from Southern Manitoba, Canada.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I like what you have, Dark treads, everything else natural. My opinion.
But just to the right of the word "treads" in the picture, they slopped dark stain in the riser.
Thx Eddie. Yes, they slopped stain but we knew (& they knew) that we were painting the risers/stringers white. We had yellow basketball court Maple floors throughout the house and I FINALLY bit the bullet and went through the pain of refinishing our floors and staining dark. The natural oak on the stairs is the final yellow that will be eliminated from our house. I can’t wait .,,but dreading this project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It could go either way. If you stained the other moulding the tread would just look beefier. What colour are you painting the risers and stringers? Personally, I wouldn’t have added that moulding but it’s probably there for a reason.


Retired guy from Southern Manitoba, Canada.
Thx catman. The house came with that moulding, I believe as decorative as it was a new build. So this is 15+ yr old “designs of the early 2000s”.

and I am going White (I can’t wait!) for risers/stringers..,which will match the white molding/crown that we have throughout the house.
 

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Since risers and stringer will be painted white, those trims should be stained to match. Could be painted black flat then coat with satin urethane? If paint, you can prime the stringer first at the end of the return trim and paint it to finish. Make sure to feather that edge. I think prepainting the wider surface will make it easier to finish the end of the trims. When painting the risers, tape off the trim. Blue tape in short sections, stretch it and lay it down on the edge. It's not difficult. Flatten the tape edge with plastic trowel or such. Sometimes I use a rag. Better than trying with tip of finger.
 

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Yet one more opinion/vote for....

Keeping the under-tread trim the same color as the risers and stringers (paint 'em white), which, by the way, is complementary to the upper molded region of the trim along the side wall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Yet one more opinion/vote for....

Keeping the under-tread trim the same color as the risers and stringers (paint 'em white), which, by the way, is complementary to the upper molded region of the trim along the side wall.
So just so I’m clear, your vote is to paint the trim white along with the risers?

At this point, that’s the easiest thing to do…just wanted to get Thoughts of there was any golden rule on whether the trim/molding (under tread) should remain as part of the tread or as part of the riser.

i was fearing you would all come back & say it should’ve been stained with the treads…whereby, there’s no way we would call back and pay our floor contractors to stain & finish just those molding pieces. So either I would’ve somehow tried to stain/finish it myself and best match the treads, or just include the molding when I paint.

**also, to be clear, as some of the comments above seem to allude to this - but the current natural oak is what is all going away. The dark treads is the newly done stain/finish throughout the entire house.

i now need to tackle this painting project but a bit overwhelmed. Have been debating to HVLP spray or just hand paint. I have also read and researched that with the wood on the stairs, tape doesn’t create perfect lines bc of the natural non-uniformity of the wood grains, and so when you start painting, the white paint bleeds rather easily underneath the tape. So I have to figure this out…

is the masking/tape/prep worth it to spray since it’s inside/outside stringers + risers & my OCD self will love the perfect spray finish? Or is that just WAY too much prep work for marginal gains?

and also scuff sanding is enough right? If I’m going to BIN over the remnant poly before painting? I read I don’t have to sand perfectly smooth…and that this is the better approach. Do you guys agree?
 

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I got new stairs, twice, on my house when I renovated. I had them made with oak treads and paint grade risers. These had paint grade poplar trim in that spot and we painted it white. We like the look with it painted white.

In your case, you had stained risers which is why your trim matches the tread.

No idea the prep you need to do, we had new stairs in both my basement and 2nd floor so it was scuffing, priming and painting.
 

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I love the richness of stained woodgrain, so cringe when nice looking stained wood is painted. I would just try to remove the slop of paint on the risers, and stain those areas, and polyurethane, on the trim and risers.
 

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So just so I’m clear, your vote is to paint the trim white along with the risers?

At this point, that’s the easiest thing to do…just wanted to get Thoughts of there was any golden rule on whether the trim/molding (under tread) should remain as part of the tread or as part of the riser.

i was fearing you would all come back & say it should’ve been stained with the treads…whereby, there’s no way we would call back and pay our floor contractors to stain & finish just those molding pieces. So either I would’ve somehow tried to stain/finish it myself and best match the treads, or just include the molding when I paint.

**also, to be clear, as some of the comments above seem to allude to this - but the current natural oak is what is all going away. The dark treads is the newly done stain/finish throughout the entire house.

i now need to tackle this painting project but a bit overwhelmed. Have been debating to HVLP spray or just hand paint. I have also read and researched that with the wood on the stairs, tape doesn’t create perfect lines bc of the natural non-uniformity of the wood grains, and so when you start painting, the white paint bleeds rather easily underneath the tape. So I have to figure this out…

is the masking/tape/prep worth it to spray since it’s inside/outside stringers + risers & my OCD self will love the perfect spray finish? Or is that just WAY too much prep work for marginal gains?

and also scuff sanding is enough right? If I’m going to BIN over the remnant poly before painting? I read I don’t have to sand perfectly smooth…and that this is the better approach. Do you guys agree?

Well, Fast Eddie managed to speak for me, but he did so with the correct answer to your question in terms of the simple "yes" to painting the trim white.

As for the remainder of your questions, my opinions/answers go as follows:
1) HVLP not worth the effort (overspray can be tremendously invasive and result in unintended consequences elsewhere)... you have to tape carefully regardless, and brushing gives you more control to be careful. Use a putty knife to press the tape edge down tightly and bleeding will be minimized. Also, don't use regular masking tape - use the better adhering green Frog tape.
2) Scuff sanding is adequate for BIN application, and I recommend using two coats of BIN to get a thoroughly solid primed base coat.
 

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Well, Fast Eddie managed to speak for me, but he did so with the correct answer to your question in terms of the simple "yes" to painting the trim white.

As for the remainder of your questions, my opinions/answers go as follows:
1) HVLP not worth the effort (overspray can be tremendously invasive and result in unintended consequences elsewhere)... you have to tape carefully regardless, and brushing gives you more control to be careful. Use a putty knife to press the tape edge down tightly and bleeding will be minimized. Also, don't use regular masking tape - use the better adhering green Frog tape.
2) Scuff sanding is adequate for BIN application, and I recommend using two coats of BIN to get a thoroughly solid primed base coat.
DITTO THAT

ED
 
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