[robut]

Here I am again !
I'm planning on replacing my stair treads leading to my second floor hall
(interior) I noticed they are 9 1/2 " wide. I have a larger foot and while going up or down either my toe or heel hits the riser,
I plan on enlarging the span ( depth ) of the tread to 10 " with a 3/4 " 1/4 round
under the bull nose for the support needed here.
At this time the 9 1/2 steps have no support under the nose with a 1/2" to 3/4"
nose Worn out and hard to get an good actual measurement
I really don't want to replace the risers or add to them
Do you think the extra 1/4 " tread depth will cause a safety hazard ?
that's a small amount of nose sticking out over the support molding
Is there a min- max for the bull nose. with out under support


Deck hand

 

[joecaption]

http://www.homeadditionplus.com/framing-info/Stair_Treads_Riser_Requirements.htm

 

[Jason34]

I have been building stairs for a living for 9 years so I think I will be able to help you. I kinda understand what you are saying but when we do stairs we have a riser height, rough cut, and finish. Since you are saying you need more depth from nose to where tread hits the rise (finish) you dont need to worry about changing your riser height or replace them. First off are these cut out stringers (horses) or are they routed to recieve the tread and riser? Either way the treads have plenty of support due to you having risers to begin with. What I need to know is your rough cut (from face oif riser to the next face of riser and then also the finish (depth of actual tread.

 

[robut]

tread nose

http://www.homeadditionplus.com/framing-info/Stair_Treads_Riser_Requirements.htm

Thanks Joe,, I can make this work now.:thumbup:

 

[robut]

nose length

I have been building stairs for a living for 9 years so I think I will be able to help you. I kinda understand what you are saying but when we do stairs we have a riser height, rough cut, and finish. Since you are saying you need more depth from nose to where tread hits the rise (finish) you dont need to worry about changing your riser height or replace them. First off are these cut out stringers (horses) or are they routed to recieve the tread and riser? Either way the treads have plenty of support due to you having risers to begin with. What I need to know is your rough cut (from face oif riser to the next face of riser and then also the finish (depth of actual tread.

Thanks for the input I see where 1" Inch in Max,from the site Joe sent me.

These stairs are still complete But worn out. If they are original with the house circ. 1890's
From the back riser the thread is 9 1/2" wide with the next riser under the top tread has a 3/4 " bull nose extending out. no support under the nose.

I guess this is what you wanted to know?
I have question for you do you use glue, and what type of fasteners would you recommend on oak steps. I have a 1" to 2 1/2 " nailer
Deck hand

 

[kwikfishron]

http://www.homeadditionplus.com/framing-info/Stair_Treads_Riser_Requirements.htm

Joe...There's a lot of bad (outdated) info in that link.

Tread depth, rise and nosing depth, all are not up to date.

This is the most current stair code that I'm aware of anyway. http://www.abqstair.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/SMAVisualInterpretationIRC2009ecopy_1__1_.pdf

 

[Jason34]

This is how we do our box stairs at work. We have a machine that will route out the stringers. So lets say we have a stair thats a 9" RC 7 1/2" rise. Our standard nose is 1 1/8". So the stringer machine will route that like so. We would then do our bottom and top cuts to what our customer wants. When the stringers are routed, the back side (when I say back side I mean back side of the stringer or underside or stair when built) is routed on an tapper to recieve our wedge blocks. We have special tables we sit the stringers on. We would then cut the treads and risers to to the length they needed to be. Stringers are 5/4x10 and when they are routed, the depth of the route is 3/8. So if the OTO (out to out) of the stair needs to be 36" we would cut our treads and risers at 34 5/8". When built that will give us roughly an 1/8" shy of what the OTO is. So above I said a 9" RC and standard nose for us is 1 1/8". We have a table saw that is set up for dado blades for a depth of 3/16" and fence set up for the 1 1/8" nose. We run the treads through. We then rip treads to 10 1/8" and the risers to 7 1/2" (in my example). We then slide all treads into the stringer and then the risers. Clamp the table down and we use 1/2" crown by 2" stables I think they are 16 guage and fire stables into the risers. We then hammer in all our wedges and use that same staple gun to hammer the bottom of the risers to the back side of the tread. We then use 1"x1"x8" pine glue blocks which we glue to the middle of the backside riser where it goes into the tread daddo and staple that fast. When we do our box stairs we dont put a bead of glue in the daddo before sliding the riser in but when I build my open stairs I do. You can also screw in from the outside of the stringer into the tread instead of nailing into the riser if youd like. But the glue block and the wedges are the most important as they will prevent the stair from squeeking.

 

[robut]

Stair Treads again

Joe...There's a lot of bad (outdated) info in that link.

Tread depth, rise and nosing depth, all are not up to date.

This is the most current stair code that I'm aware of anyway. http://www.abqstair.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/SMAVisualInterpretationIRC2009ecopy_1__1_.pdf

Kwicky

Hey Thanks for this information, yes right up to date too.
This is why I found DIY soooo great someone is alway on top of the latest information out there.
I tried to print this whole stair Code information. even though this is the only stairs
left in my old home to be replaced. " The copy right would not let me print"

Thanks to all of you who, have contributed to my quest for this information.

Deck Hand

 

[robut]

Kwicky

Hey Thanks for this information, yes right up to date too.
This is why I found DIY soooo great someone is alway on top of the latest information out there.
I tried to print this whole stair Code information. even though this is the only stairs
left in my old home to be replaced. " The copy right would not let me print"

Thanks to all of you who, have contributed to my quest for this information.

Deck Hand

Here I am again As to the code I'm allowed 10 3/8 " mx stair nose to stair nose. Well I just used a level from a bottom step touching the thread nose then measured to the next step up tread nose and got 8 3/4 "at a right angle I guess you would call it So now I know why my toe hits the riser and my heal bangs the riser too made for short footage. People were shorter is 1800's
Deck hand

 

[kwikfishron]

Your 10 3/8" nose to nose with an 1 1/8" nosing would actually be a 11 1/2" tread.

 

[Jason34]

your nose to nose will be the same as your rough cut. Just measure from the back of the tread to the front of the tread only measuring to the face of the riser. Thats your rough cut. If you measure the entire tread from back of tread to face of its nosing that is your finish tread. Our standard stairs are 11 1/8 finish and since we use 1 1/8 nose that makes a 10" rough cut. I honestly dont see how your max can only be 10 3/8" as we ship out hundreds of stairs a week with less than that and they all pass code. The only way your max will be that is if 1. your floor to floor is too much meaning your per rise measurement is too high (youll be stepping up high than what your tread depth is) or your head space is not enough. But in normal situations you can easily go over 10 3/8"

 

[Jason34]

Ok sorry for the double post but I see why your code has you maxed out at 10 3/8. I was right when I said it could be because your rise is too high. 8 3/4 per rise is ALOT. The reason why you cant bring the treads out more is because that will move your entire stair out more at the bottom and if you have an issue which your head room as your coming down the steps, that would be the reasoning for a max 10 3/8. If head room never comes into play, then you could add to your treads and also add a couple more treads to your total number thus lowering your per rise from 8 3/4 down to under 8 easily. I dont know your actual setup so please do this....... I already know your per rise which is 8 3/4. I want you to measure from the back of a tread to the front of where the next riser is. In other words measure the whole tread from back of it to where the nose ends. Then go under that tread and measure from the face of the riser under that tread to the front of the nose. Take that measurment and subtract it from your total measrement of that tread (rough cut) and give me that measurement. Then count how many full treads (not landing tread) and also how many risers. give me all those figures.

 

[Millertyme]

Jason, here in our shop our overhang is 1-1/8 too. Not sure why that link says 1" max.. That's not even enough room for scotia. Anyway I just want to say that when it comes to stairs, I don't know about other stuff, national building code is not what the inspectors go by. They go by local code which are sometimes different. So you need to check that to have accurate code requirements. Here in mass our min run is 9" run and max rise of 8-1/4", yet NBC states otherwise.

 

[Jason34]

Oh I totally agree with you on the local codes are different from place to place. We do all kinds of stairs but most of our treads are between 9" rc and 10" rc. We always do 1 1/8" nose except for a couple customers who must have 1 1/4" nose. Our risers range from 7-8" but we sometimes get some odd ball ones. We have already had customers order stairs which we told them wouldnt pass code but they still wanted them. On those we put a waver to where we arent liable if those are installed.