[sotrev02]

Hello folks

Want to redo my steps with hardwood, current stair tread is 10 inches want to increase it to 11. Do I need to beef up the framing on the steps to accept the new hardwood, seems like their will be too much unsupported material. Do I need to add extra support for each step. Any help would be appreciated

Lee

 

[Nealtw]

Hello folks

Want to redo my steps with hardwood, current stair tread is 10 inches want to increase it to 11. Do I need to beef up the framing on the steps to accept the new hardwood, seems like their will be too much unsupported material. Do I need to add extra support for each step. Any help would be appreciated

Lee

Does the current 10" include a nose? And How big? will you be removing old?

 

[huesmann]

If all you do is increase the depth of the tread, you'll be introducing a trip hazard.

 

[Nealtw]

If all you do is increase the depth of the tread, you'll be introducing a trip hazard.

No, nothing changes, we cut out 10 for a 11" treads, that's normal.

 

[huesmann]

If you do nothing but replace 10" treads with 11" your overhang increases by an inch, no?

 

[Nealtw]

If you do nothing but replace 10" treads with 11" your overhang increases by an inch, no?

That is the question, where is the riser at now.

If the stairs are 7/10 and you put on 11 inch treads the stairs are still 7/10:wink2: Then you have to look at the riser because top and bottom riser might be out of code. If they are no longer 7

 

[ront02769]

If you currently have 10” treads with the code minimum 3/4” nose overhang, then it would seem as if adding another inch to the width would make your overhang 1 3/4”.....which would technically be more than the code mason 1 1/4”. Issue might not be width of current stair but actual stringer cut. Ron

 

[Nealtw]

Short treads look scary from above when going down. It doesn't matter what game you play with treads and risers nothing changes the view from above.

 

[huesmann]

That is the question, where is the riser at now.

If the stairs are 7/10 and you put on 11 inch treads the stairs are still 7/10:wink2: Then you have to look at the riser because top and bottom riser might be out of code. If they are no longer 7

Yes, they are still 7/10, but the overhang of the tread increases, which is a tripping hazard. Over time, you might get used to it, but it may take a few barked shins to learn. What would happen if the OP wanted to go from 10" treads to 14" treads?

 

[Nealtw]

Yes, they are still 7/10, but the overhang of the tread increases, which is a tripping hazard. Over time, you might get used to it, but it may take a few barked shins to learn. What would happen if the OP wanted to go from 10" treads to 14" treads?

The usable tread is still 10" , Are stairs without a riser a tripping hazard?

 

[Old Thomas]

The problem with a large nosing is that when ascending the nosing tends to catch the toe of the shoe, causing a stumble. I have experimented and it seems that up to 1 1/2” feels natural but over that I have to be careful. Anecdotal evidence. People train themselves to automatically match their gait to standard stairs and tend to have problems with anything outside the realm of standard.

 

[Calson]

If all you do is increase the depth of the tread, you'll be introducing a trip hazard.

Not if all the treads are the same depth and this is also meets code for stairs which states:

"The largest tread depth within any flight of stairs shall not exceed the smallest by more than 3/8” . (CRC Sec.R311.7.4.2). Nosings not less than 0.75” but not more than 1.25” shall be provided on stairways with solid risers if the tread depth is less than 11”."

No problem with the extra inch so long as the tread material is strong enough. OK for oak but not for redwood or pine or fir.

 

[sotrev02]

Thanks for the feedback, so how do I reduce the overhang and still keep the eleven inch tread.

 

[Nealtw]

We need more info to give good advice.

Do you have an over hang now?
If you just add to the top, what will happen to the height of the first and last step.
We can't have the top one 3/4" smaller and the bottom one 3/4 taller than the rest.

 

[Old Thomas]

Thanks for the feedback, so how do I reduce the overhang and still keep the eleven inch tread.

The only way to reduce the nosing is to make the stair run longer.

 

[ront02769]

Pi still think that the main constraint is the underlying stair carriage. That said, it Might be possible to check out the risers. If they are 3/4” stock, you could gain a bit by changing them to 1/4” stock....backed by 3/4” between the carriages. Ron

 

[sotrev02]

Ok, now I get what they problem is. The run will need to be increased to allow a full 11 tread with overhang. Currently have a 1 inch overhang on my 10 inch step. I guess I'll just do the math to allow me to have even treads and still be under the 1 1/4 max code allowance. Thanks for finally getting the light bulb to turn on.

 

[Nealtw]

Ok, now I get what they problem is. The run will need to be increased to allow a full 11 tread with overhang. Currently have a 1 inch overhang on my 10 inch step. I guess I'll just do the math to allow me to have even treads and still be under the 1 1/4 max code allowance. Thanks for finally getting the light bulb to turn on.

You could do it if you change the riser to a sloped one .
See here all three B is the usable tread from above and never changes but you do get you longer treads.

 

[ron45]

Okay. I didn't read every comment so if this was already stated, sorry.

If you're going over the existing tread cut the overhang/nose off flush with riser and add the appropriate size riser to existing riser to accommodate the new tread.

Or.

If your removing the existing tread do so but keep the existing riser and just add another riser in front to accommodate the new tread.

In some cases a piece of quarter round trim is added under the nose of tread for support.