Staining a Wood Deck

LittleBonnie · 2011-05-12

To stain a wood deck with semi-transparent stain, which company makes the best product, choosing between Porter, Behr and Sherwin Williams?

Faron79

· #2 · May 12, 2011

Totally irrelevant question if no prep/cleaning is done.

How old is your deck, wood-condition, wood-species, height off ground, exposure, traffic, etc.
Has it ever been sanded....

Faron

Reply

Save

Like

ratherbefishing

· #3 · May 12, 2011

We've used the Behr (twice). It seems to look better and last longer if you apply it sparingly with a rag instead of generously with a roller.

Reply

Save

Like

CruiseDivaNJ

· #4 · May 13, 2011

Our deck is power washed (so much paint came off) and tomorrow DH will rent a sander and sand- then we should be ready to prime???

Prime before solid stain???

any recommendations?

(jsheridan, if you see this, diy forum didnt let me DM you back b/c I didnt have 20 posts. Im wokring on it. And, thanks for all your help!)

Reply

Save

Like

Matthewt1970

· #5 · May 14, 2011

CruiseDivaNJ said:
Prime before solid stain???

No. If you prime before stain, the stain won't be able to penetrate into the wood.

Reply

Save

Like

CruiseDivaNJ

· #6 · May 14, 2011

Matthewt1970 said:
No. If you prime before stain, the stain won't be able to penetrate into the wood.

solid stain penetrates the wood?

Reply

Save

Like

Matthewt1970

· #7 · May 14, 2011

CruiseDivaNJ said:
solid stain penetrates the wood?

They are "supposed" to. Oil based stains penetrate much more than a latex stain will.

Reply

Save

Like

CruiseDivaNJ

· #8 · May 14, 2011

Matthewt1970 said:
They are "supposed" to. Oil based stains penetrate much more than a latex stain will.

Unfortunately, at this time we're forced into using latex solid stain...

Has anyone used an infrared stripper to strip a wood deck with who knows what stain/primer exactly was used on it prior to us? lol

The weather is not on our side this weekend, and wont be for another 8 days. Murphys law. But now we have some added time to investigate what this infrared stripper is- maybe we can strip the deck?

Reply

Save

Like

Faron79

· #9 · May 15, 2011

Rent a vibrating-plate sander, & use 60-grit sheets with backer-pads.
"New wood" after you're done!!

Some companies have dropped Solid-Oil decking stains.
Sikkens has a "Hybrid" though....
No...no primer exists for solid color stains, other than one from Cabot for deeper solid colors.

Faron

Reply

Save

Like

J

jsheridan

· #10 · May 15, 2011

Faron79 said:
Rent a vibrating-plate sander, & use 60-grit sheets with backer-pads.
"New wood" after you're done!!

Some companies have dropped Solid-Oil decking stains.
Sikkens has a "Hybrid" though....
No...no primer exists for solid color stains, other than one from Cabot for deeper solid colors.

Faron

?? Why confuse the issue? Problem Solver Primer, though it specs for use on pressure treated and under solid stain, decking isn't really a common usage.
Cabot's still makes oil versions of solid, semi solid, semi trans, and the toner products. You just have to find them.

Reply

Save

Like

CruiseDivaNJ

· #11 · May 15, 2011

Faron79 said:
Rent a vibrating-plate sander, & use 60-grit sheets with backer-pads.
"New wood" after you're done!!

Some companies have dropped Solid-Oil decking stains.
Sikkens has a "Hybrid" though....
No...no primer exists for solid color stains, other than one from Cabot for deeper solid colors.

Faron

This is what covers the deck now:

We're not 100% certain what was previously used but there appeared to be a layer of something white [at one point, and it is under the initial coat done by the previous owner in '05 when the deck was built] An intelligent guess is it was primed then coated with something [we think it was also acrylic solid], then we had it done in '09- the guy primed it with Im not sure, and it was coated with the pic above.

The sander you described is exactly what DH planned, but we arent optimisitc it will remove everything to reveal the bare wood [where we'd be able to use a transparent or semi transparent on it- which would be our ultimate preference of course].

You've just given me hope which Im off to share with my DH. Maybe the sanding he plans on will remove it all and we'd be good to go with what we really want.

Im just wondering....how will using a palm sander on all the uprights go? Plus, near the hot tub there is a surround that has lattice. Im guessing we could just replace that instead of sanding it.

Oh geez.....any opinions? [I have tons of pics I need to get on my pc to UL here]

Faron, you've been a world of creating enthusiasm and hope that the sander will remove it all. Now, if someone can just come do all the uprights? lol

See less See more

Reply

Save

Like

J

jsheridan

· #12 · May 15, 2011 (Edited)

Oh, to dream! I'm sorry to be the dark cloud hanging over your parade Diva. Aside from the uprights, what of the sides of the deck boards? I'm the anti-Faron! You know, I'm just realizing that we totally hijacked lil bonnie's thread. Sorry Bonnie, can't speak to Porter, so of the three I would choose SW.

Reply

Save

Like

CruiseDivaNJ

· #13 · May 15, 2011

jsheridan said:
Oh, to dream! I'm sorry to be the dark cloud hanging over your parade Diva. Aside from the uprights, what of the sides of the deck boards? I'm the anti-Faron! You know, I'm just realizing that we totally hijacked lil bonnie's thread. Sorry Bonnie, can't speak to Porter, so of the three I would choose SW.

LOL

Not a problem. The opinions are so wide and varied.

I just yesterday said to DH that I firmly beleive there are many variables that play a role in....projects, lets say! Climate, direction house faces, method of application, product used, capability of DIY'er, and the biggest is probably the prep work done prior.

Well, we are prepared for a mere interim job this year in hopes of next year to contract it out and have the deck stripped in its entirety, then stained (transparent or semi).

The BEST outcome would be the sander works a miracle! Hey, Im a positive person and stranger things have happened!

Reply

Save

Like

J

jsheridan

· #14 · May 15, 2011

Diva, I just believe in softer landings from lofty heights.

Reply

Save

Like

Faron79

· #15 · May 17, 2011

Wow!
I have an "anti-Faron"?!?!:huh:

I too got mixed-up on the ORIGINAL question from Littlebonnie!!!

I was replying to items Cruisediva asked in post 3, as if THAT was the OP, when CD brough up priming b4 staining.

JS-
* I realize Cabot's Problem-solving primer isn't used very often for DECKS.
It IS one of the VERY few primers available for decking-use under solid-colors though, as CruiseDiva said she was gonna use.
* It's just not necessary most of the time, assuming good prep done.
* I also realize all the series of stains Cabot has. We used to sell them. When we became a bigger Sikkens dealer, we were able to drop Cabot. Sikkens was getting way more popular here. We'll let Lowe's have Cabot...they'll never have Sikkens!

CruiseDivaNJ-
* Since you mentioned this is an interim job, consider doing nothing this year! In a sense, you'd be wasting a lot of time & $$.
* I've sanded my 15y/o Construction-Heart Redwood deck-floor twice. Still looks very good. I'm using Sikkens SRD Redwood #089.
* In 2008, the year b4 DD's HS-graduation, I DID sand ALL my spindles, handrails, had the steps (18 2x6's!!!) planed, 2x10 Redwood skirt-boards, 2x12 Redwood stringers, and 6 4x4 Redwood posts.
* I bought a Porter-Cable square Palm-sander, and went through a lot of 60-grit paper!!!!
* I can post pics if you'd like!
* I never had any solid stain on though...always a S/T.
* You CAN sand through old stain. It just takes a while. You WON'T however, be able to do anything about in-between boards....unless you spend a couple days on your knees with a router and sanding-drums!
* I'd just buy new lumber!!
* Consider clear glass/plexi-panels to replace some spindles!! Saw some damn cool ones at our home show this Feb.! They can etch anything into them. College logos, team stuff, family things, etc.

>>> I KNOWETH WELL of what I speaketh here!!:yes:

Faron

See less See more

Reply

Save

Like

J

jsheridan

· #16 · May 17, 2011

Faron79 said:
Wow!
I have an "anti-Faron"?!?!:huh:

I too got mixed-up on the ORIGINAL question from Littlebonnie!!!

I was replying to items Cruisediva asked in post 3, as if THAT was the OP, when CD brough up priming b4 staining.

JS-
* I realize Cabot's Problem-solving primer isn't used very often for DECKS.
It IS one of the VERY few primers available for decking-use under solid-colors though, as CruiseDiva said she was gonna use.
* It's just not necessary most of the time, assuming good prep done.
* I also realize all the series of stains Cabot has. We used to sell them. When we became a bigger Sikkens dealer, we were able to drop Cabot. Sikkens was getting way more popular here. We'll let Lowe's have Cabot...they'll never have Sikkens!

CruiseDivaNJ-
* Since you mentioned this is an interim job, consider doing nothing this year! In a sense, you'd be wasting a lot of time & $$.
* I've sanded my 15y/o Construction-Heart Redwood deck-floor twice. Still looks very good. I'm using Sikkens SRD Redwood #089.
* In 2008, the year b4 DD's HS-graduation, I DID sand ALL my spindles, handrails, had the steps (18 2x6's!!!) planed, 2x10 Redwood skirt-boards, 2x12 Redwood stringers, and 6 4x4 Redwood posts.
* I bought a Porter-Cable square Palm-sander, and went through a lot of 60-grit paper!!!!
* I can post pics if you'd like!
* I never had any solid stain on though...always a S/T.
* You CAN sand through old stain. It just takes a while. You WON'T however, be able to do anything about in-between boards....unless you spend a couple days on your knees with a router and sanding-drums!
* I'd just buy new lumber!!
* Consider clear glass/plexi-panels to replace some spindles!! Saw some damn cool ones at our home show this Feb.! They can etch anything into them. College logos, team stuff, family things, etc.

>>> I KNOWETH WELL of what I speaketh here!!:yes:

Faron

Faron:laughing:, I think you misunderstood my comment. I, as is done routinely on this board, disagreed/offered a different resolution to the OP's problem. I don't think you followed the thread closely, OP thanked you for your optimism. I didn't share the same, therefore I'm your opposite, the anti. I have no doubt that you stripped a deck with paper, as I've stripped many things with paper. It's a lot of work. OP has a two-tier deck, and I don't see stripping that with paper to a semi-trans qaulity state. It's not cost effective or practical for a homeowner to do. You and I, as pros, can discuss Cabot's PS primer, but as you agree, it's not an everyday deck application. OP had primer stuck in her mind throughout the thread and I thought it best to take any thoughts of "priming" the deck out of the equation, before a problem gets compounded. That's all. I agree also with doing nothing. I suggested she clean it up lightly, make it look good and enjoy it for the summer until it's officially stripped. There was no challenge on my part.

See less See more

Reply

Save

Like

CruiseDivaNJ

· #17 · May 17, 2011 (Edited)

Faron79 said:
Wow!
>>>>>snip>>>>CruiseDivaNJ-
* Since you mentioned this is an interim job, consider doing nothing this year! In a sense, you'd be wasting a lot of time & $$.
* I've sanded my 15y/o Construction-Heart Redwood deck-floor twice. Still looks very good. I'm using Sikkens SRD Redwood #089.
* In 2008, the year b4 DD's HS-graduation, I DID sand ALL my spindles, handrails, had the steps (18 2x6's!!!) planed, 2x10 Redwood skirt-boards, 2x12 Redwood stringers, and 6 4x4 Redwood posts.
* I bought a Porter-Cable square Palm-sander, and went through a lot of 60-grit paper!!!!
* I can post pics if you'd like!
* I never had any solid stain on though...always a S/T.
* You CAN sand through old stain. It just takes a while. You WON'T however, be able to do anything about in-between boards....unless you spend a couple days on your knees with a router and sanding-drums!
* I'd just buy new lumber!!
* Consider clear glass/plexi-panels to replace some spindles!! Saw some damn cool ones at our home show this Feb.! They can etch anything into them. College logos, team stuff, family things, etc.

>>> I KNOWETH WELL of what I speaketh here!!:yes:

Faron

Thanks. We're probably just going to sand the floor & other horizontals that were exposed to sun and have wear and redo it with solid stain, for this year. I unexpectedly became on a budget this year!! Next year I hopefully shoudlnt have this issue!

In the meantime, my saga continues...because Mother nature is making it rain!!

Oh.....and after we sand...NOT going to prime.

Reply

Save

Like

CruiseDivaNJ

· #18 · May 26, 2011

Faron79 said:
Rent a vibrating-plate sander, & use 60-grit sheets with backer-pads.
"New wood" after you're done!!

Some companies have dropped Solid-Oil decking stains.
Sikkens has a "Hybrid" though....
No...no primer exists for solid color stains, other than one from Cabot for deeper solid colors.

Faron

Down to 36 girt....with effort, its working like a dream! DH started with 60 grit, but when he went back and rented a hand sander he got 60 grit for it and it worked better..so back I went for him and picked up the 60 grit for the other sander.

I think we decided....to just sand the floor and use a semi or transparent and then do the uprights and other areas in a solid...NEVER AGAIN, lol

Reply

Save

Like

CruiseDivaNJ

· #19 · May 28, 2011

Hoping maybe someone will see/read this....this morning..

DH sanded with 36 grit, does he now have to go over (700+ square feet) with a finer grit before we stain??

TIA~

PS it looks great. should we do some kind of "feel" test for smoothness? LOL

Reply

Save

Like

R

romniE1

· #20 · Sep 26, 2012

Yeah, when it comes to semi-transparent stains, it is important to do a proper preparation. I am in no way a professional but I was able to see real pros do my wood deck. In reality, it is nothing complicated. You first need to get rid of dirt and mildew. Those guys used a pressure wash to get rid off those things. Some of the stain, the old one that no longer has a good bonding, it falls off pretty easily. They still had to use a thing called a deck stain cleaner, a chemical of some sort. After it, the deck looked as clean as when I had it built

Those guys then applied a few coats of stain. I also had it covered with semi-transparent and I like the wood pattern. Remember, it is important to do good preparation, otherwise you are wasting your time. Good luck.

Reply

Save

Like

Top Contributors this Month