[Fauxlynn]

Hey there. I know this isn’t a furniture forum, but I hope someone can answer anyway.

I have an end table that is splitting at a seam. I’ve tried to clamp it shut in a dry run but, it’s not going all the way back in. Since it is splitting at both ends, I thought maybe just split the whole length, clean it up and try again. Any suggestions?

 

[carpdad]

I'm wondering if this is solid wood board or veneer? If you can separate the top from the legs, you could try running a saw with many teeth across the seam and glue them back. The halves of the top must be clamped to a work table or such so the pieces don't move and the saw must have a guide. Look for regular thickness kerf blades. Thin kerf blade may not cover both sides of the split. There are 60 teeth blades for circular saws and those would have least chance of splintering the top.

 

[Fauxlynn]

Thanks for responding. I couldn’t figure out how to post a picture earlier. It’s solid birch made by Conant Ball. It’s probably about 50 yrs old. Anyway, it suffered a bit of water damage we think from burst pipes at the cabin. It’s been dry for over a year. The seam is tongue and groove or whatever is the furniture equivalent term. I’ve been told the wood is permanently damaged and won’t go back by clamping. I had started to try to loosen up that glue with vinegar, thus the wet spots. Now I’m thinking I shouldn’t take apart the seam because the gap at the ends are just warped ? IDK

 

[Fauxlynn]

I took the cleats off the backs thinking it would help to clamp it. Nope. From the one pic you can see why it’s not easy to do much. The legs I won’t remove, they are in there structurally, I can see a dowel on the surface of the table for each leg.

 

[Nealtw]

I have cut a seam like that and it worked fine but the shelf will give you trouble If you remove 1/8" you will need to replace it.

 

[carpdad]

Looking at it, I agree to leave it alone. You can fill the split gap with light wood filler. Minwax has fillers with many colors that come in small containers. Start with several layers of tape on the bottom. Then push the filler in, using razor blade, example, to fill entire gap. Wipe the top surface often with damp rag so the filler doesn't stain the finish. Not sure about birch but filler may fill the pours which you can't remove.

 

[huesmann]

If you can squeeze it together with a bar clamp, you could try to get some glue in there, but I'm not sure how well that would succeed long term.

 

[demonical]

Depending on what look you're going for, you can epoxy that. You'd put painter's tape on the bottom and wrapped up the edge, but leaving the top open. Then mix a two part epoxy - not the syringe type from HD/Lowes, but an actual two part mix like from West Systems or Total Boat. You can also add some epoxy dye to make it darker. Then use a tooth pic to work it into the crack. You'd likely want to do it in multiple pours, using a heat gun or hair dryer to heat it up and release the gas bubbles. Then finally sand it down flush with the surrounding wood and it'll look like resin in the wood.

 

[ron45]

I would strip the finish.

Sand the surface smooth while adding a small amount of glue and sanding dust to the area while sanding to fill the cracks.
Then refinish.

 

[SeniorSitizen]

Another option to add would be set up a straight edge for the router then using a 1/4" straight cut a spline slot completely through the thickness and rip a Birch spline to glue in. Or for contrast, to modify Conant's design a bit, do it in the other glue joint between the next 2 pieces also and cut walnut splines to fit. The cleats would remain attached for stability, even though the bit would touch those jut a smidgen.

 

[Marson]

I think filling it is the way to go.

 

[hkstroud]

Purchase a small bottle of Titebond wood glue
Purchase 2 Jorgensen Pony pipe clamps.
Purchase 2 sets of clamp cushions.
Purchase 2 1" PVC or CPVC couplings.
Purchase 2 lengths of 3/4" black iron pipe 1 foot longer than the width of the table. Pipes must be threaded on at least one end.


Cut the PVC (CPVC) couplings in half, thereby removing the stop material in the center. 3/4" black pipe is 1" outside diameter. Removing the stop material inside the couplings will permit the couplings to slide onto the pipes.


Assemble your clamps. Screw the head of the clamp on to the pipe, slip on 2 pieces of the PVC, slip the tail of the clamp onto the pipe.

Put the cushions on the jaws of the clamps. The metal jaws of the clamp will damage the the wood as you tighten, therefore you need the cushions.


Extended contact between the black iron pipe and the wood may stain the wood. The PVC couplings will suspend the pipe slightly above the surface of the wood.


Place one clamp on the undamaged end of the table and tighten securely but don't over tighten. The purpose of this clamp is to resist the stress that is put on the joint as you tighten the other end.


Coat the edges of both boards with glue using a small brush. A plumbers flux brush makes a good tool for this.

Put other pipe clamp on the damaged end of the table and tighten. Wipe away glue squeeze out as you tighten.

When crack in joint has disappeared stop tightening. You don't want to squeeze out all the glue.


Let glue dry for 24 hours before removing clamps.



The pipe clamps will give you the strength to pull the warped boards back together. The wood glue has more holding strength than you can imagine.

 

[Fauxlynn]

Thanks for all the ideas.
I did buy clamps but it didn’t work. The seam at the center is flush and tight. The gap on one end is a hair over 1/8”. I can draw it down about half the gap width and that’s it. The last attempt I made in a dry run, the clamp slipped off and flew across the room. Yeah, I didn’t put a piece of wood under the foot and it slipped off the edge.

It’s sort of like the end has splayed outward. If this was wet from the burst pipe at the cabin, I’m guessing the cleat kept that center together while the ends dried out. Thus, forcing the ends together just isn’t happening.

I already sanded off the finish. I’m not putting epoxy on this. I think I’m going to stain it, then fill the gap with wood. Someone suggested to me filling the gap with a shim. I’m toying with cutting a small piece of wood from the underside cleat; then it’ll be the same wood, same age. Then I’ll touch up the filler to match the rest and clear coat it.

 

[Nealtw]

Thanks for all the ideas.
I did buy clamps but it didn’t work. The seam at the center is flush and tight. The gap on one end is a hair over 1/8”. I can draw it down about half the gap width and that’s it. The last attempt I made in a dry run, the clamp slipped off and flew across the room. Yeah, I didn’t put a piece of wood under the foot and it slipped off the edge.

It’s sort of like the end has splayed outward. If this was wet from the burst pipe at the cabin, I’m guessing the cleat kept that center together while the ends dried out. Thus, forcing the ends together just isn’t happening.

I already sanded off the finish. I’m not putting epoxy on this. I think I’m going to stain it, then fill the gap with wood. Someone suggested to me filling the gap with a shim. I’m toying with cutting a small piece of wood from the underside cleat; then it’ll be the same wood, same age. Then I’ll touch up the filler to match the rest and clear coat it.

Why not just cut out the crack for a few inches and fit in a patch piece.

 

[Fauxlynn]

Why not just cut out the crack for a few inches and fit in a patch piece.

Mostly because I’m trying to repair it without harming it further. Plus, I don’t have a lot of tools. I think patching it, either by a small wood piece or sawdust and glue sounds easiest. I’m a faux painter, so I’m sure I can doctor it up to blend in to match after staining.

 

[Nealtw]

Mostly because I’m trying to repair it without harming it further. Plus, I don’t have a lot of tools. I think patching it, either by a small wood piece or sawdust and glue sounds easiest. I’m a faux painter, so I’m sure I can doctor it up to blend in to match after staining.

If you think ti is to tricky with out asking question, it is likely to tricky. :wink2:

 

[SeniorSitizen]

Attempting to patch that small area will always appear as a repair, and if i tried that it would certainly look like a BOTCHED repair.:vs_mad:

 

[hkstroud]

Pipe clamps?

 

[Fauxlynn]

If you think ti is to tricky with out asking question, it is likely to tricky. :wink2:

What?

Attempting to patch that small area will always appear as a repair, and if i tried that it would certainly look like a BOTCHED repair.:vs_mad:

Yep, you may be right. However, being a preservationist, I’d rather do something that is reversible down the road.

Pipe clamps?

No, I got Bessey furniture clamps. I’m not willing to spend $40 or more per pipe clamp that I’ll most likely never use again.

 

[hkstroud]

No, I got Bessey furniture clamps. I’m not willing to spend $40 or more per pipe clamp that I’ll most likely never use again.

$14 at Home Depot. And you will use them on your next project.


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pony-Adjustable-3-4-in-Pipe-Clamp-50-2PK/100132368