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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So have a dilemma here. I need to splice the ckt(romex) in this box and extend down into my basement(right below the floor). It is being fed from above and I really can remove the box and fish and new romex in the wall. It's pretty much impossible.
What are my options to run the romex exposed from the box to the floor..about 3'( i would then penetrate through the floor)?

1. Can I just run the romex out of the box and down the wall exposed or maybe in a wiremold?
2. Can I some how run conduit? Since I would have to LB into from of the box not sure how I would do that? Is there a cover that allow a pipe into the box?

This outlet is behind a cabinet that is a 10" of the wall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Info is incomplete. Got pics of the actual box? What's the deal with that wall on the left?
Here's the box. Regular 1G plastic box. I can install new.

Not sure what you mean by wall. The outlet is right behind the cabinet( in back). The other wall is the left side of the cabinet.
 

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Yes, is that plug pictured needing to be removed? Is that plywood wall staying?
That looks like too nice a wall/room to have wire on the outside of the wall.
If you can drill up inside of the wall from below, you can cut another box in between the floor and the existing receptacle to use to guide a new wire down from the existing box and into the basement.
 

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Drive a small finishing nail close to the wall directly underneath the outlet.
locate the nail in the basement.
measure over about two inches and drill upward through the subfloor.
you will come up inside the wall and you can feed the Romex through the hole and connect to the box.
 

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Why is it impossible to remove the box and fish a length of romex down to the basement?
junction boxes that are installed prior to drywall installation are secured with screws or nails on the outside of the box,

these screws or nails are not accessible (in most cases) without cutting the wall apart,
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes, is that plug pictured needing to be removed? Is that plywood wall staying?
That looks like too nice a wall/room to have wire on the outside of the wall.
If you can drill up inside of the wall from below, you can cut another box in between the floor and the existing receptacle to use to guide a new wire down from the existing box and into the basement.
That is an alcove that we have recessed cabinet and fridge so the cable would be completely concealed behind cabinet that is a little off wall( 8-10") so it would not touch the cable.
 

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Still need more information. What room is this? Is where that box is now going to be covered up by a cabinet or something? Was this a kitchen? What are you doing with it in the basement. It might not be even legal to do what you're asking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
if its a 20A circuit you need to use 12/2

15A circuit you can use 14/2

if the wiring there is 12G i would assume its a 20A circuit
I only NEED a 15A circuit for the microwave but already ran 12/2 months ago to a particular location that we didn't use. I now need to extend the 12/2 to new microwave location but again...only need a 15A circuit. I was asking if I could use 14/2 to extend the rest of the circuit since I need 15A?
 

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If this circuit no longer feeds anything else in the kitchen, you can put 14/2 on it if you have a 15A breaker protecting it.

Is this a built-in microwave? You do understand the issues with regard to the small appliance branch circuits in kitchens?

The question now is will this box remain accessible? If not, you can't just splice at it. If you can get to it by pulling out the microwave or a drawer or you make a hole in the back of the cabinet, that is OK. If it is going to be unreachable without removing finished parts, that's not permitted. If the NM is subject to physical damage, you'll need to protect it with something. They do make box covers that with holes that you can put an NM clamp in to bring the wire out. You do need to have a cover on a box with a splice in it.
 

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It is possible to fish a cable into that box without removing it. I use masons twine and drop it into the wall. Tape the cable on and pull up and into the box.
 

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junction boxes that are installed prior to drywall installation are secured with screws or nails on the outside of the box,

these screws or nails are not accessible (in most cases) without cutting the wall apart,
True - but you can always use a hacksaw blade and cut the box off it's mounting brackets and then you have a nice big hole to help with fishing a new line. Then, an old work box can be installed. I'm sure many have done this with metal, plastic and bakelite boxes.
 

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True - but you can always use a hacksaw blade and cut the box off it's mounting brackets and then you have a nice big hole to help with fishing a new line. Then, an old work box can be installed. I'm sure many have done this with metal, plastic and bakelite boxes.
Agreed, but as I said previously, we are talking to an amateur DIY'er,

The advice I give out here relates to what I think the poster is capable of accomplishing,
 

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Uuhhh yeah, I agree, but we are talking to an amateur DIY'er here
Try this, you have nothing to lose except a hole at the bottom of a wall:

1) Drill said hole.

2) Go buy 5 feet of beaded chain, the type you would fasten a stopper for a sink to the faucet.

3) Tie the chain to about 6' of pull twine.

4) Drop the chain and most of the twine through the bottom of the box. Go downstairs.

5) The chain and maybe most of the string will be hanging out of the hole. The beaded chain will have piled up at the bottom of the wall cavity, found the hole you drilled and have fallen through.

It's really that simple.
 
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