[dtbingle]

Replaced our old utility sink with a new, slightly smaller unit. The problem is that when the water softener recharges, the discharge water comes out at a high flow rate and splashes up and out of the sink.

If the drain pipe is extended down into the sink to reduce splashing, then that increases the chance of siphoning dirty water back into the supply lines if the tub is filled or clogs up. On the other hand, if you maintain the air gap between the drain and highest sink overflow point, the water splashes all over when it shoots into the bottom of the sink.

How do you drain a water softener into a utility sink and a) satisfy the air gap to sink overflow, and b) avoid water splashing everywhere when hitting the bottom of the tub?

 

[Ghostmaker]

What pressure is your water set at. Your water pressure will determine the discharge pressure from the softeners.



Your air gap should be 2 pipe diameters above the flood level rim of your utility tub. It might help to direct the discharge to a tub wall instead of the bottom of the tub. You will need to play with the angle to get it correct.

 

[jmon]

you could try extending the pipe down a little more and use a nylon stocking or cut out a wooden piece to put over the sink to prevent the splashing. i don't know if it will totally eliminate the splashing but may help. Just a suggestion.

 

[rooster4321]

Nylon stocking

Sent from my KYOCERA-E6560 using Tapatalk

 

[huesmann]

Replace the last few ft of the pipe with larger dia, which will reduce the velocity?

 

[dtbingle]

After a few iterations, ended up with this quick and dirty solution:

The 3/4 pvc line sits inside a 1 1/2 in pvc pipe with 180 degrees cut out of the bottom of the larger pipe to direct the water flow. Works very well, although the air gap code is still being violated.

Laundry tub is on a basin pump with check valve into the main sewage discharge line and would require the tub to fill to the brim to have any chance of siphoning into the fresh water supply. Still possible, but low risk. Might try out one of the pre-built air gap fittings, but leaving it alone for now.

We're actually on a community well with just a copper stub coming into the house. Static pressure is usually around low 50s psi. Measured the pressure @ full flow, but don't recall the psi & gpm numbers.

 

[hkstroud]

Look a lot neater to install an AAV. Direct the water softener to the AAV and let the AAV drain into the plumbing underneath the sink.

This should also meet all plumbing codes.

In other words connect the water softener drain like the drain of a dishwasher to a kitchen sink drain.

 

[SeniorSitizen]

After a few iterations, ended up with this quick and dirty solution:

The 3/4 pvc line sits inside a 1 1/2 in pvc pipe with 180 degrees cut out of the bottom of the larger pipe to direct the water flow. Works very well, although the air gap code is still being violated.

Laundry tub is on a basin pump with check valve into the main sewage discharge line and would require the tub to fill to the brim to have any chance of siphoning into the fresh water supply. Still possible, but low risk. Might try out one of the pre-built air gap fittings, but leaving it alone for now.

We're actually on a community well with just a copper stub coming into the house. Static pressure is usually around low 50s psi. Measured the pressure @ full flow, but don't recall the psi & gpm numbers.

I haven't a clue why we were both thinking alike and even to the point of cutting the bottom at an angle.


I know it wasn't because of great minds thinking alike because family members have told me I'm retarded.:vs_laugh:

 

[surferdude2]

Sounds good except for the water flow into the sump. Depending on how the softener regeneration mode is actuated, you may be at risk for flooding the basement if the sump pump fails or the power goes off during the regeneration period. The softener I had in our last house had a motor driven shaft with a series of cams on it. The cams opened different valves as the process went through the stages. If the power failed, it would stay in whatever stage it happened to be in and that could be a problem, depending on how lucky you are. It only happened once in the 36 years we used it.

You can likely guess how I found all this out several years ago. Fortunately our softener was located outside the house but you can imagine what the water bill was that month when we were on vacation and the power was off for 2 days! It took some head scratching to figure out what happened. Had it been in a basement and depending on a sump, I think we would have had a second swimming pool!

Most softeners operate with pilot ported solenoid valves so that isn't an issue but just thought to mention it in case it applies.

SD2

 

[Mystriss]

IDK if you're gonna perma fix this, but you might try these bar mats https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Tonic-Bla...FN2TJTK7C5P&psc=1&refRID=0EYVPXTFKFN2TJTK7C5P as a "better looking" cheap solution.

I have a deep basin kitchen sink with a high faucet and had splashes up the window until I found these. Maybe they'll work for ya.

 

[dtbingle]

Sounds good except for the water flow into the sump. Depending on how the softener regeneration mode is actuated, you may be at risk for flooding the basement if the sump pump fails or the power goes off during the regeneration period. The softener I had in our last house had a motor driven shaft with a series of cams on it. The cams opened different valves as the process went through the stages. If the power failed, it would stay in whatever stage it happened to be in and that could be a problem, depending on how lucky you are. It only happened once in the 36 years we used it.

You can likely guess how I found all this out several years ago. Fortunately our softener was located outside the house but you can imagine what the water bill was that month when we were on vacation and the power was off for 2 days! It took some head scratching to figure out what happened. Had it been in a basement and depending on a sump, I think we would have had a second swimming pool!

Most softeners operate with pilot ported solenoid valves so that isn't an issue but just thought to mention it in case it applies.

SD2

This is a good point, but I think we're fairly safe. The laundry tub drains into this zoeller basin pump and this setup is right next to, and sloped towards the sump pit in the house. This sump pit has a separate electric pump, as well as a water-powered backup pump in it. Additionally, we're on a community well that's on a natural gas backup generator if power goes out.:thumbup1::thumbup1:

IDK if you're gonna perma fix this, but you might try these bar mats https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Tonic-Bla...FN2TJTK7C5P&psc=1&refRID=0EYVPXTFKFN2TJTK7C5P as a "better looking" cheap solution.

I have a deep basin kitchen sink with a high faucet and had splashes up the window until I found these. Maybe they'll work for ya.

This could be a very simple and effective solution. If I reconfigure the tub, I might try this to prevent splashing and raise the drain standpipe a bit to satisfy the air gap requirement.