Do what ever you want. Yes, pink fiberglass insulation will cut down noise. There are a lot of ways to sound proof. If I was you and I was thinking of an additional layer of drywall I would use 5/8's drywall.
People have wondered for the past 10 years. It's an urban legend. It's far too stiff and elastic. Plus, you'll likely find silicone costs more on a per-ounce basis.I wonder how well silicone sealant stacks up against the Green Glue stuff.
A solid block wall filled with concrete would do wellAlso, I wonder how well cinder block walls (hollow or filled with sand, gravel, or concrete) is compared to sheetrock wall construction (with and without the Green Glue)....
That makes sense. Is it the same for rigid mass as flexible mass?No. Mass is the primary driver in sound isolation.
Any comments on insulation in a 5" staggered wall (created from an existing 2x4 wall)? I plan on pink 3.5" paper-backed (paper facing toward the new space..."new staggered stud side"), stapled between the 'pre-existing' studs (about 8" cavities, unless I compress it behind the new staggered studs, which seems counter-productive). Is there a more efficient way to do this?I think that's generally true.
As a side note, insulation in a single stud (coupled) wall can drop the noise but not by much. Tests would show you'll get more bang by adding the drywall as you say.
Hi Ted, thanks for your remarks. I'm actually planning on installing it vertically (cutting 8" strips) between the existing wall studs and the staggered studs. Also, I intend to place it against the existing hung drywall of the adjacent room, stapling it against the studs, paper facing the new space.Hi Mark,
Many people are inclined to install the insulation horizontally, essentially weaving the insulation back and forth between the staggered studs. This causes compressed pinch points when the drywall is installed. Much better to install the insulation vertically as best as you can. R13 is the insulation you want. You can use kraft paper faced insulation also.
Just avoid compressing, and remember that you simply want the least expensive insulation you can find. Anything that says "acoustic" is likely sold at a premium.
There ya go!Just don't compress the insulation and you'll be fine. If anything try to "fluff" it up as you install it.
Believe it or not, I'm just getting the time to get back to this project and am determined to finish the entire addition in the next month. I'm about to get my framing rough-in inspection, so insulating is next.Hi Ted, thanks for your remarks. I'm actually planning on installing it vertically (cutting 8" strips) between the existing wall studs and the staggered studs. Also, I intend to place it against the existing hung drywall of the adjacent room, stapling it against the studs, paper facing the new space.