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All,
Hi, I am trying to understand/figure out the soffit-fascia detail of a roof.
I have attached 4 drawings.
My roof in the house I live in is constructed like drawing 1. Rafters are cut to size, fascia is nailed to rafters, throw on the soffit, and it's done.
I am building a shed (16' X 24'), and in investigating roofing detail I came across the idea of sub-facia (see drawing 2). This is a heavier 2X material that the fascia attaches to and prevents warpage of the facia. If it will make a big difference and/or is considered best practice, I would like to build this way, but I am confused, as it seems as soon as you do this you have issues with the dimension of the lumber used. See detail area in drawing two.
Drawing 3 is one way to deal with this. Cut the top of the sub-fascia to match the roof angle, move the board up a little since the angle allows it, and the area of detail is back.
Drawing 4 shows another alternative which is to just use a 2x4 for the sub-fascia, but this method seems to leave a fair amount of the actual fascia unsupported.
I am thinking that something along the lines of what I show in Drawing 3 is close to the best solution. Maybe I can do without the angle, and just rip the board to a narrower width, but the idea remains the same.
Any ideas, opinions, explanation of something I am missing?
The help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim
Hi, I am trying to understand/figure out the soffit-fascia detail of a roof.
I have attached 4 drawings.
My roof in the house I live in is constructed like drawing 1. Rafters are cut to size, fascia is nailed to rafters, throw on the soffit, and it's done.
I am building a shed (16' X 24'), and in investigating roofing detail I came across the idea of sub-facia (see drawing 2). This is a heavier 2X material that the fascia attaches to and prevents warpage of the facia. If it will make a big difference and/or is considered best practice, I would like to build this way, but I am confused, as it seems as soon as you do this you have issues with the dimension of the lumber used. See detail area in drawing two.
Drawing 3 is one way to deal with this. Cut the top of the sub-fascia to match the roof angle, move the board up a little since the angle allows it, and the area of detail is back.
Drawing 4 shows another alternative which is to just use a 2x4 for the sub-fascia, but this method seems to leave a fair amount of the actual fascia unsupported.
I am thinking that something along the lines of what I show in Drawing 3 is close to the best solution. Maybe I can do without the angle, and just rip the board to a narrower width, but the idea remains the same.
Any ideas, opinions, explanation of something I am missing?
The help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim
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