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Discussion Starter #1
Just measured from stove, around the corner to short hall where my bedroom is. 12 ft.

The SD is on the ceiling and it GOES OFF ALL THE TIME.

Heating oil. A high burner. And my toaster is farther away. Maybe another 8’. Last week burned toast, there was a little smoke. Yes, SD went off.

I keep ear plugs handy when I cook now. Just turning ceiling fan on and opening a door an it goes off quickly.

What can I do?

A fireman installed it.
 

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Just measured from stove, around the corner to short hall where my bedroom is. 12 ft.



The SD is on the ceiling and it GOES OFF ALL THE TIME.



Heating oil. A high burner. And my toaster is farther away. Maybe another 8’. Last week burned toast, there was a little smoke. Yes, SD went off.



I keep ear plugs handy when I cook now. Just turning ceiling fan on and opening a door an it goes off quickly.



What can I do?



A fireman installed it.


Is it photoelectric or ionization? Ionization may work better there.

https://www.nfpa.org/Public-Educati...ment/Smoke-alarms/Ionization-vs-photoelectric



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Starting...is there any reason any smoke would likely collect there...ventilation flow eyc....

I had a cathedral hip in our home kitchen..... I did have to move the the SD down a little.:smile:
 

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photoelectric is less prone to nuisance trips due to cooking smoke, actually.

ionization only alarms, in addition to going off from cooking too much don't provide adequate escape time when the smoke is from a smoldering fire.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Louvered door on left in front is pantry. Stove is about 30” away from that. You can see the AC return air near the floor. On right.

If I take the SD down to inspect will it say which kind it is?

C3CE16C6-FEB7-4C25-B584-78B64C2EDD78.png
 

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Louvered door on left in front is pantry. Stove is about 30” away from that. You can see the AC return air near the floor. On right.

If I take the SD down to inspect will it say which kind it is?

View attachment 585567


When you have time to put it back in (safety first!!) I’m sure it will show a model number at least which will be useful. Also you can tell if it’s wired or wireless. If wireless you can move it, but maybe your firefighter friend can help with this problem on site


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Ionization alarms have a radioactive material warning on the back.



The newer alarms are marked with either a i or p on the front if not dual sensor.

The return may be pulling air from the kitchen into the hall increasing the risk of false trips.

A photoelectric alarm may still go off from cooking but not as early or frequently.

If you have a vented exhaust fan over your stove, use it.
If there's a range hood/exhaust fan but it's not vented, put a charcoal filter in it and use it - should still help a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
The firemen weren’t friends. I had electric work done (permitted) a few yrs ago. I was told code was I had to have a hardwired & battery SD. They went off Recently at 3:00 am waking me up, scaring me with the voice saying FIRE FIRE CARBON MONOXIDE CARBON MONOXIDE. I couldn’t tell which SD it was. They put one inside my bedroom and one outside. I had 4, they took different batteries which I didn’t have. Went to WM at 4:00 am. Bought batteries, had trouble holding flashlight while trying to get battery in. Got them to stop yelling.

My SD in past ALWAYS chirped a warning days before. These didn’t. Then I was afraid they’d go off again so I disconnected them. Of course I had 4 holes in the ceiling so I left them disconnected Without batteries but put them back up to cover the holes.

Then I went to the Fire Dept for answers. They said its a service to install them but they have to go on the ceiling. I didn’t get a close look at what they put up. At least the hardwire ones never went off when I cooked even when the kitchen had smoke.

I usually use my hood vent unless I’m fixing something quick. i’ve never had so much trouble with SD.

Ok, I’ll buy a photoelectric one.

Thank you
 

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keep in mind that if one of your hardwired alarms are interconnected, they all have to be compatible.

You can't just replace one and expect it to signal the other ones correctly.

Has to be same brand and other units listed to be compatible.

If you open the electrical box and all three wires from the female side of the wiring harness and connected to the electrical system, the alarms are interconnected.
 
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No I disconnected all the hard wired ones and removed batteries. I never want to use those again because they went off with no warning. At night.

Thanks
 

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Surely the sensors are triggered through some motion around that causes false alarms. You should have found the cause instead of disconnecting them. Wired fire alarms are reliable ones.
 

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No I disconnected all the hard wired ones and removed batteries. I never want to use those again because they went off with no warning. At night.

Thanks
In most areas, it's against the law to replace hard wired alarmed with 100% battery ones when they're required by code.

Rightfully so because you lose the interconnect feature and battery ones tend to be disabled when there's a low battery warning.
 

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I can offer moral support but no help. Getting ready to replace ALL of mine.

Bud
 
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Around here the new code call for models with the 10 year lithium batteries. These will be nice to have and avoid the routine battery replacements.... especially if you have one like mine that is ridiculously high on a stairwell ceiling. Always an adventure up there to change a battery or detector.
 

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Around here the new code call for models with the 10 year lithium batteries. These will be nice to have and avoid the routine battery replacements.... especially if you have one like mine that is ridiculously high on a stairwell ceiling. Always an adventure up there to change a battery or detector.
These units, at least the ones made for kidde are complete garbage.

I've experienced first hand - defective and constantly going off.

The reviews are horrible - many are defective and have false alarms and batteries dying prematurely.

The concept is bad - ordinary alarms can work just fine beyond 10 years, they just need to be tested regularly. With the sealed lithium unit, you're forced to throw it away after 10 years.

I'm betting the manufacturers lobbied for requiring a non-replaceable battery to create an ongoing market.
 
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