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Those are compression fittings, there was no need for pipe tape. 100% sure it's not leaking under the faucet and running down?
A simple wipe on the supply line to dry it off and use some toilet paper around the line will tell if it's coming from above.
As long as she just turns it a little bit and in the right direction it's not going to do any harm.
If it was mine I'd replace both of those line with flex lines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Those are compression fittings, there was no need for pipe tape. 100% sure it's not leaking under the faucet and running down?
A simple wipe on the supply line to dry it off and use some toilet paper around the line will tell if it's coming from above.
As long as she just turns it a little bit and in the right direction it's not going to do any harm.
If it was mine I'd replace both of those line with flex lines.
Understood, thanks for this further insight!!

You were correct, the plumbers tape and tightening did nothing...



Will investigate the leak further up... so if it is further up, whats the game plan?

In that pic above how would I should off the water supply off to avoid flooding my upstairs bathroom in case ish hits the fan?

Also how involved is replacing the lines with flex lines, and what is the benefit?


Thanks again,

Sean P
 

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May just need tightening on the faucet end. Easily done with a basin wrench.

As joe recommended, easy fix with two new ss flex lines.

You will have to look for the shutoffs for the sink. If there are none, you will have to turn main water off.

While its off, might as well put on a couple shutoffs if needed. Take off those 90's, get the proper sized shut offs, and screw them on. Add your ss flex line, turn water on, check for leaks, done. Just a suggestion.
 

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Someone really cheaped out on that install.
No shutoffs, no escuntion on the drain line.
You need two right angle 1/4 turn valves.
Measure the distance from the valve to the under side of the faucet before buying the flex lines, they come in many lengths.
Buying one to long is not an issue, to short and it's useless.
 
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That should be done with TWO wrenches--one on the square fitting (to prevent it from twisting and stressing the pipe going into the wall)
and the second one on the compression nut.

I would recommend putting a bucket under the drip until you get home--just in case the old wall pipe snaps off.
 
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That should be done with TWO wrenches--one on the square fitting (to prevent it from twisting and stressing the pipe going into the wall)
and the second one on the compression nut.

I would recommend putting a bucket under the drip until you get home--just in case the old wall pipe snaps off.
Pay attention to Oh Mike...he is right on. Be careful and provide support when you are loosening those old fittings.. BTW if you ever have to remove an old threaded pipe from inside a wall, it is best to use two pipe wrenches so you spread out the compression on the pipe that could collapse the pipe. Easy does it. If you are lucky it will come out without problems.
 

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Agree with Joecaption. Throw some shutoff valves in there while you're fixing it. Then your family can always shut off the water when they see a leak. You've got plenty of copper to work with there. A pipe cutter, fitting brush and some "push-to-connect" valves would take 15 mins to install...no sweating required (don't forget to shut off and bleed the water main).

http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBit...-Turn-Angle-Stop-Valve-23036-0000LF/202270612
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
so I tightened stuff up with the basin wrench, actually was pretty tight as was...


I then dried up everything to a T.. However still a leak but take a look at these pics..

WHAT DO YALL THINK??


I feel it might be coming up from above? Maybe do I need to (re)seal the base around the faucet?

Do I just buy a caulk gun and waterproof caulk and go to town or what?


let me know

Sean P
 

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Additionally, I would replace those supply lines as well. If you really feel ambitious, put some push-on angle connector shut offs on those copper supply lines so you never have to turn the whole house water off again for future repairs. Just a suggestion.

It would be under 70 dollars for everything or do it a little at a time. Main thing right now is the faucet with new pop-up assy. That faucet looks like its been leaking for awhile. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Is there no way to fix or repair this? Must I replace?

Forgive me gentlemen but I come from a different era..where we repaired and repaired as much as possible..

But if not, just let me know!!

oNe
 

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Is there no way to fix or repair this? Must I replace?

Forgive me gentlemen but I come from a different era..where we repaired and repaired as much as possible..

But if not, just let me know!!

oNe
That faucet is a cheap piece of crap....replace and sleep at night. You should spray those nuts with WD-40 to help in removing with your basin wrench. I can't tell from the photos but the nuts may be around nylon threaded connections, but I would still use the WD-40.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
all right gents, I am GAME!!

lets do this..

I want to do it right and TIMELY.. so need your help putting it all together, i.e. replacing faucet, and adding shut off valves..

1. Faucet $10 at HomeDepot

2. SS Flex line? So basically any steel braided line right, appropriate size fittings and lenth, $5-10?

3. Since pipe coming from wall I need two 90 degree 1/4 turn stop valves correct? Any suggestions or input for Menards/HomeDepot?

4. What else would I need, plumbers putty, do I need to seal the faucet to the sink top in any way?


any and all suggestions greatly appreciated!

regards!

Sean P
 

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If this is a daily use bathroom, pick a different faucet. A $10 faucet is no bueno. I didn't see a pop up drain control on the one in your link either
 
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