[Kiwi.]

Am getting ready to tile our laundry. I believe (haven't confirmed yet because its currently covered by the dryer) that one corner has a small area that may need to be leveled.

If needed, is it better to lay (thinset and screw) the backer board, then use some sort of SLC on the backer board? Or use the SLC on the plywood, then backer board?

I'm pretty sure the area would be pretty small, and I'm not sure how adding lath etc then SLC would work in such a small space.

Thanks,

Kiwi.

 

[JazMan]

Hi,

Backer board then self leveling or patch. Not a good thing to nail/screw into concrete patching material.

Jaz

 

[Bud Cline]

Why use backerboard to begin with?

The Self Leveller is the backer.

 

[JazMan]

Why use backerboard to begin with?

The Self Leveller is the backer.

Good point, but, sounds to me as only a small area needs leveling. If it ends up that the entire floor is covered with the proper thickness of SLC, then that's all that's required.

Jaz

 

[Bud Cline]

Yow I see what you mean:

one corner has a small area that may need to be leveled.

Missed that part, I was thinking the whole room was getting levelled.
There would be less costly ways to flatten out that floor other than SLC at $30 per bag and primer at $15 a jug. Doesn't sound (now) like fifty pounds of SLC would be required.

 

[Kiwi.]

Yow I see what you mean:

Missed that part, I was thinking the whole room was getting levelled.
There would be less costly ways to flatten out that floor other than SLC at $30 per bag and primer at $15 a jug. Doesn't sound (now) like fifty pounds of SLC would be required.

Thanks for the replies. It is only a small amount that may need to be levelled and I haven't really investigated it, so you never know, it may be flat! Will be a little annoying to spend $50 to fix such a small space, but I guess you need to do it right.

 

[Bud Cline]

Will be a little annoying to spend $50 to fix such a small space,

I think you can buy a 25# bag of Portland cement-type floor patch for under ten bucks and fix it with that. Even then, the "fix" would go on top of the cement board.

 

[french_guy]

Yow I see what you mean:

Missed that part, I was thinking the whole room was getting levelled.
There would be less costly ways to flatten out that floor other than SLC at $30 per bag and primer at $15 a jug. Doesn't sound (now) like fifty pounds of SLC would be required.

I know it's an old thread, but I was doing some research about leveling an OSB sublfloor (not for tile though, just 12x12 groutable vinyl tiles)
What are the less costly ways to level a subfloor without going backerboard, primer and slc?
Thanks

 

[JazMan]

Hi again,

You're going to bond vinyl tiles to the OSB subfloor, or any subfloor?

Backerboard would not change the level of your subfloor. If sheets of anything could do that, your roof would be flat.

SLC to level a floor? Maybe, probably.

Jaz

 

[french_guy]

Hi again,

You're going to bond vinyl tiles to the OSB subfloor, or any subfloor?

Backerboard would not change the level of your subfloor. If sheets of anything could do that, your roof would be flat.

SLC to level a floor? Maybe, probably.

Jaz

Hummmmm...........I understand better now why roofs are not flat :wink2:
My subfloor is OSB, covered in the master bath with old vinyl tiles, probably installed on a layer of lauan or similar
The floor is pitching on 1 side. I've read SLC over OSB was not recommended, but SLC over cement board was OK. I know the hardibacker won't level the floor and fix the issue by themselves, but they will allow to pour SLC
But since I'm not planning to install tiles, maybe there are other/easier/cheaper methods to address my problem
And I know self adhesive tiles should be installed over a 1/4" plywood underlayment, stapled onto the subfllor.....But if it's leveled with cbu+slc, stapling is maybe not ideal !!!

 

[JazMan]

This is a master bath, how about we talk you into installing ceramic instead?

Jaz

 

[french_guy]

This is a master bath, how about we talk you into installing ceramic instead?

Jaz

Why not....But if the subfloor upstairs is the same as the one downstairs, it is OSB 19/32 vs_mad
So I will have:
1) fix the sloping issue
2) reinforce with an extra layer of plywood (1/2") then ditra

Maybe a solution would be to remove the current subfloor, level the joists and install 3/4" plywood?

 

[JazMan]

Maybe a solution would be to remove the current subfloor, level the joists and install 3/4" plywood?

That's certainly one way the make the floor flat and level. You could also prime, staple down lath and do SLC., or install CBU then SLC, to name a few.

But, I was trying too get you to go with a floor that will last a long time and is sanitary too etc.

Jaz

 

[french_guy]

"But, I was trying too get you to go with a floor that will last a long time and is sanitary too etc."--> I understood perfectly.....

 

[JazMan]

Ok, so vinyl huh? Which specific line do you like?

Jaz

 

[french_guy]

Ok, so vinyl huh? Which specific line do you like?

Jaz

I was thinking about the TrafficMaster Ceramica from HD - I've seen a kitchen floor installed with such groutable tiles, and it looked very nice
I would prefer real tile of course, but 1) my floor is not flat and more important 2) I doubt my current subfloor complies with the L/360 deflection (yes, I've read and learned a lot from this forum)
For tile, the best option would be to completely remove the subfloor, level the joists and install 3/4" T&G plywood.......But this is a lot of work and I won't be able to tackle it myself. Unless there is a solution to level the floor first and then install 1/2" plywood for reinforcement and then Ditra?
If I go the vinyl tile, I'm still looking for some solutions to level the floor and have a smooth surface to install them - SLC (level+ smooth) or level (how?) + layer of 1/4" underlayment?

 

[JazMan]

If you install concrete backer, the SLC goes on after, on top. Cuz, nails or screws do not work well into cement patching material. So level after the CBU is finished.

Go with Ditra and pour the SLC, then install Ditra.

And yes I agree, some of those higher quality vinyl tiles/planks can look very nice. To me they look best in the dark or on the store shelves, but then I like the real thing. Tile/stone/wood.

Jaz

 

[french_guy]

If you install concrete backer, the SLC goes on after, on top. Cuz, nails or screws do not work well into cement patching material. So level after the CBU is finished.

Go with Ditra and pour the SLC, then install Ditra.

And yes I agree, some of those higher quality vinyl tiles/planks can look very nice. To me they look best in the dark or on the store shelves, but then I like the real thing. Tile/stone/wood.

Jaz

cbu+slc+ditra, even if my sublfoor is only 19/32 OSB?

If I were to go with the vinyl tiles, I promise i won't turn the light on...:vs_bulb:

 

[french_guy]

If you install concrete backer, the SLC goes on after, on top. Cuz, nails or screws do not work well into cement patching material. So level after the CBU is finished.

Go with Ditra and pour the SLC, then install Ditra.

And yes I agree, some of those higher quality vinyl tiles/planks can look very nice. To me they look best in the dark or on the store shelves, but then I like the real thing. Tile/stone/wood.

Jaz

By the way, which SLC would you recommend that IS NOT rapid setting?

 

[JazMan]

No, you don't need cbu and Ditra too. One or the other +slc where appropriate.

Is the OSB t&g? If you go with vinyl, 19/32 should be ok. For ceramic we'd like a little more beef.

Good idea with the lights.:glasses: But you'll need an underlayment over the OSB, right?

Jaz