Call the manufacturer name stamped on the trusses or on the bill. Many will only allow Rise/50 or 5/12 with 30' span = 5X15= 75"/50=1-1/2" out of plumb, with a maximum limit of 50 mm: http://www.ntf.net.au/keep-em-straight
Gary
Gary
Slanting trusses??
Hi, I had my dad help me with sheathing the roof. Ugh! He didnt space out the top rafters 24"oc but the bottom he did? So, as you can imagine, they are slightly slanted. I'm loading it with concrete tile. HELP!!!!! will it hold?
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At 1200 # per 100 sq. ft., you need more trusses. 16" oc. And I sure hope your sheathing is really sheathing! 1x8's or wider!
Those that use plywood instead need 2 layers of 3/4" for a reasonably solid deck for concrete tile. :no: But then, if there's a leak, the resulting wood damage can lead to huge repair bills later.:no:
Start your corrections now before it's too late! It'll be good enough for shingles as you described it though.
Those that use plywood instead need 2 layers of 3/4" for a reasonably solid deck for concrete tile. :no: But then, if there's a leak, the resulting wood damage can lead to huge repair bills later.
:no:Start your corrections now before it's too late! It'll be good enough for shingles as you described it though.
Thank you! the trusses are 2x4's. I have 5/8" OSB as sheathing. although many of the trusses have 2x4x10 attached to them and the center trusses are half vaulted and those are doubled up. I hope that's enough because they installed the underlayment already, which is synthetic, and they used 1"staples with caps! after I said not too! Ugh!!!!!At 1200 # per 100 sq. ft., you need more trusses. 16" oc. And I sure hope your sheathing is really sheathing! 1x8's or wider!
Those that use plywood instead need 2 layers of 3/4" for a reasonably solid deck for concrete tile. :no: But then, if there's a leak, the resulting wood damage can lead to huge repair bills later.
Start your corrections now before it's too late! It'll be good enough for shingles as you described it though.
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