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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, thanks to anyone who can help me with this in advance. My furnace won't ignite, and I have flipped the external valve to OFF and left it for long periods of time with the temp all the way down and then turned it back to ON and turned the temp up but this is not working. It has worked in the past (the last couple months this has happened a few times) but this time it is not working. I am pretty clueless when it comes to these kinds of things. Any ideas?
 

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Gas furnaces have safeties on them.
If it is not igniting due to a safety issue there is no bypass but to discover the fault and clean or replace the part.

Is the pilot lit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No, the pilot is not lit. I am not sure how to light it other than the turn off and on again deal.

Is there only the one ON and OFF knob on the outside of the furnace?
 

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shutting the isolation valve going into the furnace isn't part of resetting it.going to say you have a spark ignition for the pilot(not standing lit all the time).....IMPORTANT:eek:any zone valves going up into the space? how many thermostats in the house for the heat? give us a model number off the boiler so we can see it.emergency switch at the top of the stairs is on
 

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From my distance I have no way to ascertain if you have a pilot less ignition or a pilot ignition.

A pilot (lit flame) would have a control in or on it with a gas valve that has a pilot button on it.

Pilot less has a heat cool that ignites a pilot and flame.
If no glow, no flame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK... this will show my ignorance.... what is a zone valve? I am a first time home owner and a little confused.
It says Part Number SN- s00007662 and Model Number S - 120 - EDP

I only have 1 thermostat in the house.

What does "emergency switch at the top of the stairs is on" mean?

I do have a little box on the side that says "Honeywell" which i can take off and then there is a small switch... type thing that i can press and it makes a noise like something is trying to run. I also have another box higher up that talks about "Position Indicator" and "Indicator light" which is currently on and glowing green... does that helo?
 

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most boiler that are in the basement usually have a red plated ON/OFF light switch so you can turn it off and that keeps you from going right on the boiler and shutting that one down.... if you have a problem fllod aand or typhoon:wink: you don't have one,but a zone valve would be on the pipe(s) at the boiler going up into the space for 2 story homes with multiple stats(not yours).if you have lights on the boiler you have power so something within the boiler itself is :huh:keepiing you off?go to their site and literature and see if you can pick out your boilers type and name http://www.slantfin.com/product-boilers.html
 

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according to the op manual you have a standing pilot...meaning you have to light it with a match.shut the toggle 115V switch off on the side of the boiler and remove the front cover so you see the burner section.on the gas line control valve there is a dial ON/PILOT/OFF should be in the ON position at this point.turn the dial to PILOT(need that shut off "open" just outside the boiler also)set yourself up with a match so you can reach into the boiler where that silver aluminum line ends that is the pilot assembly.light the MATCH.........push the dial down on the gas valve and hold it down(with thumb)reach in,and the pilot assembly should light like on the old style stoves:wink:.....or bic lighter:wink:.NOTE don't worry about the main gas coming on 1......the 115Vtoggle is off right,and 2 the main gas valve is in the pilot position.so we have the pilot lit ........:thumbsup:keep holding that dial down count to 30 as with those "mississippi":huh: and then let it go should pop up....and that pilot should stay lit...YES.turn the dial to ON put the toggle 115V up flue damper should open CLICK!!!the main burner should come on.you have a automatic vent damper on the flue pipe on the back of that boiler with that toggle 115V back on that should cycle open,and "CLICK" the burner in.....make sure that stat is calling.the way the boiler works as page #8 reviews the stat calls the flue damper moves to open and the "CLICK" tells the boiler its main burner can start because the flue is open...bigtime saftey there....you have to here a click within the boiler when that damper swings to open..do the pilot thing first i will check back http://www.slantfin.com/documents/411.pdf
 

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If you have been having this problem for a couple months.
It may be time to have a service tch check it.
It won't get better on its own.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OK... I must be a little dense. I have looked all over the place for the 115V and the ON/OFF PILOT switch. I cannot find either or any button anywhere. The only ON/OFF is the one on the lower right corner of the furnace on the outside. It has an ON/OFF... which is the one I have been using up till now. With the cover off... and the inner screw cover off i can't seem to see any form of button, switch or valve. . .

i do have a red "watts reg" valve/knob on the pipe going up into the cieling... but i can't see any other.

I know you must be tired of me by now... thanks so much for all the advice so far. No worries if you are finished!
 

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It sounds like you have spark ignition from what you discribe. The boiler you linked to has the option for spark. The honeywell box you pushed in on sounds like the pump relay dont push it in by hand.
As far as it works after you reset the power sounds like the pilot is not always lighting. Depending upon the ingition modual you have it may try and light up to three times before a full lock out. You then reset the power and it tries again. Sounds like it is time to have the boiler serviced. It may be as simple as a dirty pilot.
 
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