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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's a photo of our sink plumbing after dishwasher install. It's the trap that I am worried about. To my eye it seems like the copper drain should have been cut shorter rather than extending the length of the trap. It is draining okay though the dishwasher hose never seems to empty. But maybe thats how they all work? I remember emptying a dishwasher hose once to take it out when we had a problem somewhere else.

Is this okay? Terrible? Expert opinions, advice, and/or info is appreciated! Thanks!


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Naildriver
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It looks fine as long as the dishwasher hose makes a high loop into the dishwasher cavity. The one problem I see is that you, in essence, have a S-Trap, which is not code compliant without an AAV (Air Admittance Valve) to act as a vent. The AAV could be put above a Tee going into the copper drain, with one leg attached to your sink plumbing and the other leg vertically extended up to the sink level and an AAV glued to it. It should be 1 1/2" PVC.

Edit: Your black tube that goes to the pull out faucet should be behind that dishwasher hose, or it will not pull out properly.

 

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You are correct. A p-trap should have no more than 4" water seal. Looks like you are double that. Lower the copper waste and add an auto air vent downstream of the trap- follow manufacturers install guide for proper placement.
Also, you should verify the tee is designed for that horizontal application. I prefer end outlet wastes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks @chandler48and @TheEplumber- appreciate your responses.

Our drain opening is really high up in the cabinet leaving not much room for the dishwasher Y we need. I am finding this set up all over the Web and available at big box stores and hardware stores. It looks like a better way to handle this.

@TheEplumber - you mentioned you prefer end outlet wastes. That is how I found this- by googling that new-to-me term. Is this a better option?

Thanks again for your help!

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retired framer
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Thanks @chandler48and @TheEplumber- appreciate your responses.

Our drain opening is really high up in the cabinet leaving not much room for the dishwasher Y we need. I am finding this set up all over the Web and available at big box stores and hardware stores. It looks like a better way to handle this.

@TheEplumber - you mentioned you prefer end outlet wastes. That is how I found this- by googling that new-to-me term. Is this a better option?

Thanks again for your help!

View attachment 657549
Plan on cutting the copper pipe at the red line and ask questions to do with that and the vent mentioned above.
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A "Handy Husband"
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Install the dish washer tail piece in the horizontal waste arm and move the trap up.

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
@Nealtw - thanks for your advice. I'm not comfortable cutting the pipe. I mean, I can cut it- but then what? I would call a plumber in if we go that route. Not easy to get tradesman in to do anything lately. Would likely be a 4-6 week wait before someone would show. That's why I am trying to figure out a simple way forward that I can do.

Is there something wrong with using the part I found with DW tailpiece built in? I like that it would make some space in the cabinet.

Thanks for any insight!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
@rjniles- thanks for responding.

I didn't know you could install the tailpipe horizontally! Looking around and seeing this is an option. My concern is that the horizontal pipes are level. Would I need to tip them downward somehow to keep the DW water flowing down and out?

Asking you the same question as I did @Nealtw: is there something wrong with using the part I found with DW tailpiece built in? I really do like that it would make some space in the cabinet.

Thanks for reading!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just FYI- I bought the plumbing option I referenced earlier and installed it. Inexpensive and easy fix. Thanks to all for your ideas and help - really appreciate it.

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi @Nealtw - Thanks for this reminder. I wanted to circle back to you on this.

What does this vent do? Would this one work?


Do I just install this right after the drain offset pipe? I think I can handle that. Thanks for insight on this.
 

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Naildriver
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Now, that looks like a Pro did it. Congratulations.

Edit: The studor valve lets air in from the top to keep water flowing. As an example, place a straw in a soda bottle and put your thumb over it. Remove the straw and the liquid stays in the straw. Now, open your "studor" valve by releasing your thumb. Water flows.
 

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retired framer
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Hi @Nealtw - Thanks for this reminder. I wanted to circle back to you on this.

What does this vent do? Would this one work?


Do I just install this right after the drain offset pipe? I think I can handle that. Thanks for insight on this.
Yes that is it, install it between the trap and the wall or at least connect the pipe there.
It allows air to be sucked into the pipe and stops any chance that the trap can be siphoned empty which would allow deadly sewer gas into the house.
A Primer on "S" Traps (structuretech.com)
 

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A "Handy Husband"
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Why the AAV? The poster gave no indication the drain is not vented.

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hi all - per @rjniles' question, what are the clues i should look for to figure out if the vent already exists? We have never had any sewer smell in our kitchen and we don't hear any gurgling or gasping coming from the plumbing. If we fill both sinks and unplug them they just drain with no issues. Maybe we have a vent in the wall?
 

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retired framer
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Fwiw, I have yet to come across an S trap that has siphoned itself dry, though it's more logically possible and not code. We still have them in a couple of our family's homes.
I only had one, never noticed a smell, but when I removed the trap it just had a dribble of water in it.
 

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A "Handy Husband"
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Where do you suppose the vent would be?
View attachment 657758
In the wall. If there is a pipe going up from the trap arm connection (behind the brass but), it would indicate a vent.
Even if not, the poster indicates it drains well, I would not be concerned.

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Having a deep trap virtually creates an old fashioned barrel trap. They are not permitted today but they usually worked in the past.
 
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