DIY Home Improvement Forum banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi my name is matt. I've been searching for a site like this so i hope y'all can help.
I have an 03' gmc Sierra. For almost a month now my breaks have been grinding. So i replaced them in the front. But a week later I got the same noise only louder and while in motion. I thought I did something wrong but the job looked good. The grinding sounded like it was coming from the front and getting louder by the day. Then yesterday I had just pulled into the parking lot at work and I heard a pop. Them the peddle went to the floor. I dropped it down to first gear and rode the curb to stop. When I got out I noticed a puddle of break fluid running down my right rear tire. Now the breaks light is chiming and I have no breaks. Anyone have any ideas what happened? Please help its urgent.
 

· Low Slope Roofing
Joined
·
1,451 Posts
GM trucks of that era had issues with the rear calipers sticking, the grinding noise could have been there all along and transferring to the front. One of the rears I think it was the right was more prone to do this, dirt would get lodged in the caliper and make it stick.

Another thing to look for on the 99-2007 trucks is the brake lines, the steel lines from the ABS generally under the drivers seat area under the truck can rust out, the most common area for them to rust out and break would be where the frame rail sweeps up to clear the rear axle.


For future reference never drive on grinding brakes, a little squeal maybe but grinding is never good, and if you have no brakes, park the vehicle, it's not worth killing your self or someone else.
 

· What is that?
Joined
·
1,048 Posts
GM trucks of that era had issues with the rear calipers sticking, the grinding noise could have been there all along and transferring to the front. One of the rears I think it was the right was more prone to do this, dirt would get lodged in the caliper and make it stick.

Another thing to look for on the 99-2007 trucks is the brake lines, the steel lines from the ABS generally under the drivers seat area under the truck can rust out, the most common area for them to rust out and break would be where the frame rail sweeps up to clear the rear axle.


For future reference never drive on grinding brakes, a little squeal maybe but grinding is never good, and if you have no brakes, park the vehicle, it's not worth killing your self or someone else.
^^^^^^He is correct.^^^^^^^ Just get 'loaded' calipers and rotors. Loaded means reman caliper with pads. Install them, then bleed the brakes. Get a couple of cans of brake clean and spray the brake area down to remove the brake fluid as the fluid will remove paint. Stay away from auto zone unless you want to do it again.:vs_coffee:
 

· Low Slope Roofing
Joined
·
1,451 Posts
It's been awhile since I've done them but for some reason I was thinking the slide pin was a 14 or 15 MM head bolt. Either way you should be able to get vice grips on it or you can remove the whole mounting bracket, remove the brake line and set it on a bench where you can see it better. The parts store should have the slide pins in stock as those I believe interchange between a number of years.

 

· What is that?
Joined
·
1,048 Posts

Loaded calipers come with everything minus the brake hose. The pad holder, I call it, and the bolts, hardware, and pads so just remove the pad holder bolts and remove the hole assembly. Above is the duel piston type for your truck.

This is single piston type for your truck. There is a core charge so bring in the assembly to swap out and keep the pad holder bolts to spindle for reassembly.:vs_coffee:
 

· Banned
Joined
·
30,077 Posts
I would check with Rock Auto as well.

I agree that buying anything from most of the auto shops is a recipe to do the work twice.

I have found some good deals on Rock Auto before and they sell some nice stuff.

Buy them loaded and ready to go as mentioned. Good flush and bleed on the lines and you are ready to go.
 

· Low Slope Roofing
Joined
·
1,451 Posts
No it's a solvent, very little if any water in them.

Make sure to have the proper size wrench, I like to use a 1/4 drive 6 point socket to break them free. They are super easy to round off then you will be using vice grips. They sell replacements at auto parts stores for pretty cheap, may not be a bad thing to do if they are really that stuck, as they may be plugged as well.

Like WOW said, let them sit in penetrating oil for awhile, over night is best but sometimes we dont have that long to wait. Use a good penetrating oil, PB blaster, AeroKoil, or Seafoam Deep Creep. A 6 Pt socket on a 1/4 drive ratchet and try to tighten them ever so slightly. They should come out pretty good after that.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top