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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The siding above our garage and porch is rotting near the roof-line (see photos). Both areas never get sun, which I think caused or exacerbated it.

I researched replacing the boards but it's beyond my ability to do a good job. (On a scale of 1 to 10 my DIY skill level is about a 3.) I tried getting a local siding company but it's too small (and I think annoying) a job for them to bother with.

Does this look like something a wood restoration product could handle? Specifically, I'm wondering about Abatron Wood Restoration Kit. It's a combination of epoxies -- liquid, to soak into the salvageable areas; and putty, to replace the completely rotten parts.

I know it won't look great but at this point I want to first stop the damage from spreading, and second improve the appearance.

Does anyone have experience with this kind of product, or an opinion about if this approach is worth trying? Thanks!
 

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Possible but not if siding is thin and the rot went all the way through. Epoxy filler can't stick to the flashing because flashing is not a stable base.
I didn't use that filler but I think it's fairly costly epoxy filler? I think bondo or regular outdoor wood filler should work as well. Slip a thin metal or such between the siding and the roof. Filler must not stick to the roofing.
But even after the repair, the rot could get worse, because wood above the fillers could get wet and rot would start there.
Part of the rot is because the siding is tight to the roof. If you will buy a osillating saw, you can cut the siding about 1" above the shingles, while not cutting into the flashing underneath, and painting the cut edge. This will probably make the filler repairs unnecessary and give the siding longer life.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Possible but not if siding is thin and the rot went all the way through. Epoxy filler can't stick to the flashing because flashing is not a stable base.
I didn't use that filler but I think it's fairly costly epoxy filler? I think bondo or regular outdoor wood filler should work as well. Slip a thin metal or such between the siding and the roof. Filler must not stick to the roofing.
But even after the repair, the rot could get worse, because wood above the fillers could get wet and rot would start there.
Part of the rot is because the siding is tight to the roof. If you will buy a osillating saw, you can cut the siding about 1" above the shingles, while not cutting into the flashing underneath, and painting the cut edge. This will probably make the filler repairs unnecessary and give the siding longer life.
Yes it is costly -- the gallon kit is $120. The reason I was thinking about this over Bondo was because the Arbiton includes the liquid epoxy that is supposed to soak into any salvageable wood to harden & protect it. Then the putty mix would fill in any pieces that are too far gone. Bondo, etc is just the putty.

Thanks for the tip about sliding thin metal between shingles & flashing. I was thinking about using cardboard but tin would be better.

I don't know why the siding is so close to the roof, there's only one layer of shingles. I like the idea about cutting it higher. My concerns about that are: 1) I don't know how far up the flashing goes, and I sure wouldn't want to cut above it. 2) Never having used an oscillating saw I'm afraid I might not be steady enough and cut into the flashing.

Actually there's a third concern: I fractured my knee and am incapacitated for at least the next two months and restricted even longer. My wife was going to try the epoxy repair if we go that way. However she'd be reluctant to do the cutting alone -- she's no more adept than me and would be afraid of screwing it up. Maybe I'll heal fast enough to do it before winter.

Thanks for the advice.
 
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