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Discussion Starter #1
Can someone tell me how to repair this valve, it is behind the fridge for ice maker.

Is this a compression shut off valve? The nut is sitting right on the bottom, is the piping too short?
 

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If it doesn't leak, I'd find another handle for it. to replace you may have to cut the old valve off. Doesn't seem to be any pipe left if that were the case.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If it doesn't leak, I'd find another handle for it. to replace you may have to cut the old valve off. Doesn't seem to be any pipe left if that were the case.
It doesn't leak. Is recessed area a part of plastic box textured and painted, or is it dry wall?

I would like to replace the handle and don't know how, does that involve changing the packing? I was planning to call a plumber in but it seems like something really simple. I don't mind buying another valve and taking parts from it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's a phlips screw, that is just hanging loose, and the below it is a sliver of manged from the previous handle, below that is a kind of spline.

I wonder what happened to need to use pliers and such to mangle this up. Maybe the handle broke and they snipped it


There was also sign of leaking behind the fridge, but might have been a faulty ice maker.
 

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undoing that screw atop the stem should remove the mangled handle, chances are you could find another handle from another valve that would work. Most of the time the reason these feeds leak is because people use copper/brass ferrels with plastic line. when compressed the the harder metal cuts in the the plastic line and therefore leaks. Had a coffee company absolutely ruin a few offices for doing that very thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK so the screw just holds the handle onto the spline, no water will come out?


I am buying a 1/4" stainless braided icemaker hose for my new fridge, what length is good for this installation?

I had done that too with plastic line and both brass or plastic ferrule without leaks, just tight enough so the plastic is not cut.. no leaks when I did myself.

Thanks
 

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no water will come out, you need to loosing the large nut atop the valve to do get a water leak or worse. The line you use should be long enough to pull the fridge away from the wall far enough to give you access to a. install it, b. plug the fridge in.
 

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you can replace the whole valve...shut of main water to house...hold top of valve with wrench use another wrench to turn big nut on bottom of box..install 5/8 od x 1/4 icemaker compression ball valve.... home depot ,,lowes...hardware store...ben sr
 

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if the screw is tight you will need to hold the stem at first to keep the shaft from turning til the screw is loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
it looks like around 12 splines.. I took a replacement handle from a bib valve but it is slightly too small.

Any idea if the stem can be replaced from one that is from another valve? are they compatible?

I also got a universal faucet handle adapter that clamps on, in the worse case I am going with that.
 

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Ben has the best idea---change the valve---the handle is broken because to much force was needed to operate the vale---it need replacing----brass craft 1/4 turn ball valve ----
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I would like to replace the valve but can you tell me if this is a compression fitting?

This was a valve that came with a LSP icemaker kit but when I looked at ice makers they are all pipe threads, the guy said he has not seen one with compression fitting.


Will I be able to verify it is leak free after installation since the nut is sitting right on top of the surface
 

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Replace the valve as previously mentioned. With that much damage to that handle it tells me that valve was causing problems and needs to go Bye Bye's.
 

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Sure looks like a compression fitting----should be a simple change out for a 1/4" outlet valve---
 

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Be careful if you change the valve.

Do you know what piping it's connected to below? Copper? CPVC? Something else?

If the piping is not properly supported below, there is a chance once the valve is freed the pipe slips below and you will be fishing the pipe back up. It is not uncommon the installer had to push or nudge the pipe up a little to make the connection while the wall was open.

There is also a chance if the installer overtightened the nut and caused the ferrule to strangle the tubing (assuming copper), in this case it won't be easy to remove the nut and ferrule without a sleeve puller which may not fit inside this recessed box. So there is a chance you may have to reuse the existing nut and ferrule, most compression valves should fit, but I have seen compression threads that are non-standard.
 
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