[ksguy]

Hi - I'm mid bathroom remodel. I ripped out the old cast iron tub and plastic surround and I'm going to be doing a nice new tub with 12 x 12 ceramic tile surround all the way to the ceiling. While I'm still working on other stuff I started wondering: how does one finish the joint between the wall tile and the ceiling?

The ceiling currently has popcorn so it's hard to see how out-of-level it is. The popcorn will be gone before we're done, but it has to be asbestos tested first (House built in 78).

I'm using hardibacker for backer board and 2x coats of redguard before setting any tile. When I'm taping and thinsetting the backer board joints, do I tape and thinset them to the ceiling as well?

 

[oh'mike]

The cieling /wall junction is usually taped with drywall tape and drywall mud---at that height it will never get wet---

The tile to cieling edge gets caulked---any 'change of plain' has some movement so grout will crack---

 

[ksguy]

The cieling /wall junction is usually taped with drywall tape and drywall mud---at that height it will never get wet---

The tile to cieling edge gets caulked---any 'change of plain' has some movement so grout will crack---

Perfect, exactly what I needed to know. Thanks.

 

[JazMan]

how does one finish the joint between the wall tile and the ceiling?

Did you remove the drywall yet? If not, I recommend you leave at least some near the ceiling. However, be aware that the old wallboard will be thicker than Hardie 500. Not only is the board thicker, but there's a bead of glue plus multiple layer of paint and primer. You could shim the studs out ⅛" or so, or redo the joint.

BTW, I recommend you prime the Hardie with diluted Redgard, then apply the 2nd and 3rd coat.

Jaz

 

[ksguy]

Did you remove the drywall yet? If not, I recommend you leave at least some near the ceiling. However, be aware that the old wallboard will be thicker than Hardie 500. Not only is the board thicker, but there's a bead of glue plus multiple layer of paint and primer. You could shim the studs out ⅛" or so, or redo the joint.

BTW, I recommend you prime the Hardie with diluted Redgard, then apply the 2nd and 3rd coat.

Jaz

Unfortunately the drywall is already down. I sliced the tape joint at the ceiling to get a nice clean break when removing the drywall from the walls. Sounds like I'm going to be in for a world of hurt since the hardi board won't completely fill the gap between the stud and the ceiling board unless I go ahead and shim the studs anyway.

Regarging diluting Redgard, it's 4 parts water to 1 part Redgard, right?

 

[JazMan]

The ceiling joint won't be much of a problem because of the thickness, just the extra work to tape and blend to the ceiling. It'll be more of an issue when you butt to the rest of the drywall and transition.

Yup, i:4 will do it.

Jaz