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Good luck---By the way---grout is not water proof---so silicone caulk would be the minimum---removing the cap and waterproofing with Hydroban (Latacrete) before resetting the cap into a bed of silicone will be a more trustworthy fix---
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
hammerline, through the elimination of all other possibilities, G H and I (actually the entire underside) is where I am now focusing my attention. Every other option (come 3pm today when flood test hits 24 hours) have been thoroughly eliminated.

Even so, it seems highly unlikely even to me. The below picture is what logic is telling me is happening, but it seems far fetched.

Behold my awesome skills in MS Paint.
 

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not that far fetched....once the water makes it under that cap and begins running below/under..I don't know the technical explanation...but the water leaking below/under will begin to draw in the water from the shower side. Maybe capillary action??
 

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Not so unlikely----I have seen water roll under the lip of a sill many times---

I found an entire condo complex where the exterior lime stone window sills were allowing water to roll into the interiors of the units---

Solution? Diamond cut a small groove under the sill--then caulk properly---sills are best with a drip groove---but proper caulking and bedding into a waterproof material will also do the job---
 

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Solution? Diamond cut a small groove under the sill--then caulk properly---sills are best with a drip groove
My old sills on the brick veneer on the front of my house were rowlock courses of the brick. Had them replaced with one-piece limestone sills. The mason did cut the drip-edge on the underside of the sills. Think he called the cut a reglet.

Now back to mikestorm's issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Sorry for not getting back to this post. Last week I had to cut the flood test short at 19 hours as I needed to leave the home for an extended period of time. Starting again and am at hour 15 of flood test two. No water so far.

I've done some more searching and I have a theory about what (specifically) may be wrong with the curb. If you look at my first set of photos, you'll notice a rust stain in one corner of the cap. I've recently discovered the existence of something called 'dam corners'.

I'm wondering if the lack of dam corners is causing water to wick in/around the curb into the walls and floor. Here are my questions:

1) Does this theory sound plausible?
2) Can dam corners be installed after the fact provided curb is torn down to the membrane or not? They apparently can be cut/folded into the liner, but there's also a standalone product one can buy.
3) Plumbing job or repair job?

Finally, I want to say thanks to everyone who has helped me thus far. I can't tell you how much it's appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Well crap. Hour 24.5 I walked into the kitchen and noticed a solitary drip on the ground. Looking up, I saw another starting to form.

The odd thing is when I use the shower, the leak happens in minutes. Why would the flood test take 24 hours?

One thought: There are microfractures in the grout around the curb. When I'm in the shower, water cascades directly into them. With the flood test (water line was directly below) perhaps the water wicked up the grout to the microfractures? Does this sound plausible?

Based on the responses I may hedge my bet. I might bring in the mason/tile guy and have him remove door, remove cap, remove tile around curb, and inspect. If he still thinks it's the NOT a pan leak I'll ask him to waterproof, install dam corners, retile, reset cap, reinstall door. Otherwise, I'll have him stop there and call in the plumber to cut an exploratory hole in the ceiling where the leak is to see if he spots anything.

I'm becoming dismayed this might be a whole new shower stall situation :(
 

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and call in the plumber to cut an exploratory hole in the ceiling where the leak is to see if he spots anything.
why would you need a plumber to cut a hole in the drywall ceiling. You should of done this already yourself. Not that difficult. At least you may be able to see something obvious and then make an informed decision
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
You're right of course. Its not like cutting a hole in my ceilings is beyond my skillset. I will do this this evening and post photos. I think I'm psychologically equating the hole to my making things worse. I know my wife will:laughing:

Thanks for the reality check.
 

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You're right of course. Its not like cutting a hole in my ceilings is beyond my skillset. I will do this this evening and post photos. I think I'm psychologically equating the hole to my making things worse. I know my wife will
After seeing what is going on after cutting the hole, at least you will have time to make a "better" informed decision.
 

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DANG! I was following this thread closely and was anxious to see the pics after mikestorm cut a hole!
I have a very similar situation with my 16 year old home, master shower leaking through to family room ceiling, so far just staining, not dripping. Shower is a hot-mopped style and all tile, have checked shower valve/plumbing etc. and determined it is either a leaking hot-mop pan issue (I hope not!) or the shower drain. But as mikestorm was, I am reluctant to cut a hole in the family room ceiling. :(
With painter's tape I laid out the upstairs floor-plan onto the ceiling and have drilled a couple small holes to see if any water would drip (it didn't). The home is (just?) 16 years old and I would hope BOTH/EITHER of these possibilities would have lasted longer?!?!? After the wife and I have each used the shower, I can feel the stain is more damp than before.
Pics show stains and layout. Square layout is shower and you can see small hole where I expect the drain to be. Stains are apparently edges of drywall sheet that leak has traveled to from?
 

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While I was inspecting showers when they stuck it on plumbing inspectors for a while I noticed a lot of the waterproof liners did not encapsulate the threshold completely. Including the outside of the threshold. Your problem sort of sounds like a threshold issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
Kenz, I didn't follow up because I never cut the hole. I think my wife just wanted our master bathroom back, so I ended up hiring the tile guy to rebuild the step...and he was 100% right; once the step was rebuilt, leak was fixed completely.

After removing the door, then cap, and inspecting the wood which comprised the core of the old step, it was completely rotted through. Additionally, when he retiled, he used larger tiles on the inside side of the step, which decreased the # of tile joints around the problem area. Originally, there were two rows of tile (one full size, one partial) on the inside side of the step, now there is one row (refer to original pictures).

All in all I'm pretty satisfied!
 

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That's great mikestorm, really glad you got it worked out and thanks for the response.
MY situation on the other hand, is not progressing very well.......; have removed almost a full sheet size of drywall from the family room ceiling, all the plumbing looks intact and not leaking. Today removed drywall from the backside wall of the shower where the valve is, still nothing obvious. Plugged the drain and filled the shower with water, almost up to the top of the curb and got a slow but steady drip downstairs. Drained about half of the water, left about 1" (which is MUCH more than would ever accumulate during a shower) and the drip has pretty much stopped.....
I'm working with a friend who is a retired plumber and we are both just dumbfounded. Still working on it.....
 

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Plugged the drain and filled the shower with water, almost up to the top of the curb and got a slow but steady drip downstairs. Drained about half of the water, left about 1" (which is MUCH more than would ever accumulate during a shower) and the drip has pretty much stopped.....
I'm working with a friend who is a retired plumber and we are both just dumbfounded. Still working on it.....

Sounds like you found the problem. Leak is in shower pan, higher than the 1" mark.
 

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Sounds like you found the problem. Leak is in shower pan, higher than the 1" mark.
Yeah, I guess I did. It is a hot-mop/tile shower, got an estimate for a fix, but will probably go for a new shower. Functional, but not fancy, will use same style white tile because the tub surround and counter-top are all that too. Had a glass/mirror guy take some measurements today for the enclosure and expect a quote back from him soon. :(
 
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