[kyletornquist]

All,

I am working on my first home renovation, which happens to be my personal master bathroom. It started with replacing the tile in the tub surround to converting it to a walk-in shower and replacing all of the floor tile. I was originally going to have a plumber come in to relocate the drain and move the shower valves up until he wanted to charge $900. I have already relocated the drain and working now on dry fitting the copper before cutting it in. A few questions for those with more experience than me at this:

Attached picture shows current setup. The valve will be replaced, moved up and centered by moving to the right.

1) Is the current layout standard to where I would just need to lengthen the supply lines and shorten the shower head line? If not, what would you change?

2) I have read where some prefer to put unions on the in's of the shower valve instead of soldering directly into it. Thoughts?

3) I am thinking of soldering in all of the copper to the valve where the only thing I have to do is make the attachments at the couplings. Is this the best approach?

4) Is there a certain shower valve that you all tend to prefer? My early research comes up with a lot of options. Would like your input.

Thanks,
Kyle

 

[oh'mike]

You have logic and common sense--your ideas are right on target---

yes the current set up is common--the air chambers are missing---easy to correct by using a T-instead of a 90 when going from the vertical riser to the horizontal valve pipe--then adding a 12" piece of pipe with a cap.

Moen or Delta---those are my two trusted brands---Moen is first choice with Delta a close second.

Yes--sweat the pipes to the valve body--no unions are needed (or wanted)-remove the guts before you solder so you don't toast the plastic and rubber.

If you use Delta--it comes with a test plug---remove that when you are done checking for leaks and add the cartridge (if you leave the test plug in--your hot and cold water will 'cross over' and every near by fixture will have warm water)

If this is your first soldering experience--let us know--someone will offer techniques for soldering--

 

[oh'mike]

You will also want a 4 or 5 inch nipple (threaded 1/2" pipe) and a cap to place in the new shower pipe as a temporary stub out---this allows you to test the shower riser for leaks--and will help when adding your backer board and tile--

 

[kyletornquist]

Alright Mike, thanks for the help! I have been working on some other items in the remodel but I am back to this now. I bought a new valve last night and will upload a diagram of what I plan to do. A couple of things:

- I bought a moen setup and it looks like the valve has thread ends on it.

- This is my first time soldering. I have been practicing in my garage, but would love any helpful tips from the pros.

 

[Ghostmaker]

Clean the pipe clean the inside of the fitting apply flux paste to both. Apply heat to the underside. Solder to the top. Once it melts and drips off the bottom remove heat and solder. Also a good habit to remove all of the valve guts prior to soldering. Do not forget your shut offs for the shower itself if you did not buy a valve with stops included.