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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi i am re-doing my first shower stall.

It is a three sided shower stall built in the 90's.

Due to water leakage behind the tiles i have decided to remove the tile and start over with a fresher look.

The wall tiles have been removed to the studs.
The shower pan remains.

I am looking for advice on the shower pan removal.

It looks as if it is tile + 1/2" cement+ membrane below that.
The drain is centered.


Can I:
  1. try and remove the tile and avoid removing the cememt?
  2. Remove everything so i can redo the waterproofing features.
Any advice on how to avoid the drain pipe?

Any advice on the best tool?
  • Cold chisel?
Paul
 

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I'd redo the pan----Just break it up with a hammer---the drain set will need replacing so expect to open the floor and cut out the P-trap---Post a picture for more exact directions.

Is this a wood framed floor or a concrete slab?
Building a shower pan with pre-sloped mortar bed, liner and curb.

Some good reading to give you an idea of what you are breaking up-----Mike----
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the quick reply.
In addition thanks for the reading material.

Was not expecting to do any work to the drain, so i will begin my research.

I have attached a photo of my shower pan for your reference and for any guidance.

Paul
 

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The pan looks good from here---You may be able to reuse the drain set---I wouldn't ,I like every thing new when a shower is re done.

Your plumbing supply house will have the drain set with a square cover--MUCH easier to tile to---

Be sure to do a 'flood test' on the new liner before packing the base---24 hours---it's the best insurance that a first time pan maker can buy.----Mike----
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Mike,

I will pick away at the tile and concrete tonite.

Is there any risk of me cracking the drain pipe?
Will the concrete fracture and come away from the drain pipe?

I also note that i missed your original question.
The shower is wood framed and sits above a crawlspace.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
last few questions.

When rebuilding the shower pan i have read about the schlutter system.
Will this work in my application?

In addition any thoughts on if i left the shower pan as is and retiled the walls.
I am guessing that they are commonly done together to ensure waterproofing etc.

Paul
 

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If you are absolutely sure that the pan is still sound--you could remove the tiles--and reuse the pan.

The drain assembly is a two part thing---a base drain that is glued into the pipe and clamps the membrane ---and an adjustable screw in top that holds the chrome cover.

Most pans are not built correctly--water gets through the concrete and reaches the liner.
That water is supposed to drain away into the lower drain--

Often the liner is not pre sloped to the drain---thus leaving the concrete to soak for the life of the pan.

Result--rotten -soft concrete----

I'd want to replace the pan---20 years of use---I'd say it's paid for itself.

Building a new pan will typically cost $135.00 in parts---$35- for the square drain set---$70 or so for the liner and $15 for 3 bags of masons mortar.

Add a new P-trap and a few hamburgers---$135

I do a lot of these pans---This is the rough order of things---

Demo----add new drain set and P trap--pack a pre slope---add liner(folded corners--no cuts ever!)

Durrock the walls--No nails or screws below the curb height.

Pack the base

mesh the curb

fat mud the curb.
 

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Bud Cline or Jazz man will have to fill you in on the Schluter shower systems---they have a fine reputation and are faster than the old fashioned mud bases---

But I have never used them myself and think advice on those should come from someone with real hands on experience.---Mike----
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I will follw the steps noted.

Any tips on the demo?

I am currently using a 3" concrete/brick chisel and hammer.

I am trying to decide on the best course of tact.

Would i fracture to small pieces and see if it separates from the membrane?

In my short 15 minutes with hammer and chisel i am not making fast headway.

Lastly will everything come up cleanly from the plywood base?

Paul
 

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I'd thump it with a big hammer---think breaking a sidewalk--It will bounce free of the liner and crack into large pieces.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Great advice.

I got some better chisels and made quick work of the pan.

I will work on the drain set, pre slope and liner for the wknd.

It is a long weekend for the recognition of Queen Victoria's birthday.
(think she is the queen mum's aunt, but i should look that up.)

Paul
 
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