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· Retired Moderator
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They are called 'test plugs' and are in the same section as the Fernco rubber fittings.

It's a soft rubber disk with a steel washer on either side--a bolt and wing nut through the center.

Tighten the nut and that squashes the rubber--expanding it it stop up the pipe.
 

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Flood Testing Procedures



This is a picture of a 2" twist and set plug. Adjust the wing nut until it goes into your drains piping with a tiny bit of pressure and twist it down until you have a good seal. Do not over tighten or apply to much pressure to the drain.



This an inflatable test plug with a 3' extension. I use either my bike pump or mini compressor to inflate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks John,
Sure gave me a clear idea of the different options.

I did struggle to find a drain plug as all they sold at two local home improvement stores was 2" drain plugs.

My scenario required me to taper my drainset to match with 1.5" from the previous installer.

After racking my brain i went for the simple drain plugs that are common for laundry sinks etc.

I figured if the test passed then i was alright. If the test failed then i would really have to hunt to find the right drain plug to rule out a poor seal.

Paul
 

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Flood Testing your own shower pan

The long thin plugs I have are designed to slip past the 2" mouth of a drain's body and into the 1 1/2" pipe. A few pumps and you have a tight seal.

Like Bud suggests a plumbing wholesaler in your town or online will be your best source. Many large "Box Retailers" I have found do not sell any plugs for testing showers.

How long do you plan to flood your shower for? Do you know how to measure for leaks and evaporation?

JW
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi John,

I think calling someone like Hillcrest (or another plumbing supplier) locally would have been prudent.

My test consisted of pushing a laundry sink into the 1.5" drain and fiddling to ensure a tight seal.

I used about 3 " of water and noted the height on two walls.

I waited 24 hours.

I noted no difference in height after 24 hours.
I did not notice any evaporation loss or leakage.

After draining the pan i then went under the crawlspace to inspect the plywood base and joists and noted no moisure or wetness.

I note your comments on measuring for leakage and evaporation.
Can you elaborate?

I have enclosed a pic of of the status of my job so far. But am not adverse to going back and re-testing.

Paul
 

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Measuring for evaporation

On an extended flood test with hot job site conditions or excessive air movement you need to measure the rate of evaporation.

We set up a second dish of water. Something like a casserole pan and fill with a inch or so of water. We add a stack of coins to both the casserole pan and shower pan. Both will evaporate at the same rate.

By using coins you can see exactly if the pan is leaking and by what rate.

I just noticed your in Vancouver. Call me when you do your next shower and I will lend you a plug.

JW
 

· Tileguy
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We set up a second dish of water. Something like a casserole pan and fill with a inch or so of water. We add a stack of coins to both the casserole pan and shower pan. Both will evaporate at the same rate.

By using coins you can see exactly if the pan is leaking and by what rate.
Jheeeeezh!
You guys in Canada don't have a ruler or a yardstick or a tape-measure device?:)
 

· Retired Moderator
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That's all it's for---It's a lot better to find a problem before you spend days tiling and much bucks on supplies.

Some inspectors require that test---Mike---
 

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Nice to see so many flood tests. I get about 2 emails and four calls a month from people all over North America asking questions about the procedure.

It's very straight forward and a must on any shower build.

Great work everyone!

More information on flood testing showers

JW


Here is my last flood test filling up. The yellow plug is part of an inflatable test plug.
 

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