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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, Basically my hot water in the shower won't last long. All the other faucets and guest shower are completely fine. My water heater is new, not even 2 years. I just had a completely new valve and cartridge installed. I checked the regulator in the handle and it is as far as it goes. Any advise on to what could be going on. Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm not entirely sure.
The plumber brought it with him when he replace the valve. It was part of the installation.
I know it's a very generic delta.
i did some googling and this is probably what it is: Delta Foundations BT13010 Monitor 13 Series Valve in brushed nickel.


Thank you!
 

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"Monitor ® pressure balance valve keeps water temperature within a safe ±3° F (±1.6° C), helping to protect you from sudden changes in hot or cold water pressure."

I'm having the same problem with my Kholer scald guard valve. They apparently suck after a few years - maybe water deposits bork them up over time... We'll be replacing ours with a non-scald guard one.
 

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Even though the water heater is only two years old is it possible the culprit is the the dip tube in the water heater? It wouldn't be the first time heaters have shipped with bad dip tubes and it's easy to check. Or maybe the installer heated the inlet pipe when it was attached to the heater and melted the dip tube. Hopefully you have a utility sink, but the kitchen sink will do as well. Run hot water into a bucket, preferably a 5-gallon bucket and compute your flow rate (gallons per minute) from that. Use a thermometer - a food thermometer will do fine - and when the water temperature drops ~10° or so that's the hot water capacity you have. If the temperature drops right away then you can be pretty sure it's the dip tube.

If that's it, they're cheap and relatively easy to replace if you've done even minor plumbing before. There are lots of videos on youtube on how to replace the dip tube.
 

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There is a big difference between the two common types of shower control valves, “pressure balanced” and “thermostatic”. The Delta reference you gave shows that you have had a “pressure balanced” valve installed.

A “pressure balanced” type of valve keeps the ratio of hot to cold water coming out of the shower head constant, but if the temperature of the hot water supply decreases during the shower then the temperature of the water coming out of the shower head will go down also. A “thermostatic” valve is better because it adjusts the ratio of hot and cold water to attempt to keep the temperature constant. If the incoming hot water temperature goes down during the shower then the valve compensates by increasing the ratio of hot to cold water until, if necessary, it is only sending water from the hot water pipe through to the shower head.

If you’ve replaced the valve or cartridge and get the same behavior from two different pressure balanced valves, I agree with DerfIV that you need to investigate the hot water tank for the source of the problem. The problem that you describe is seen often when there is a problem with the dip tube of a water heater (water starts hot but goes cold more quickly than it should for the volume of the tank). Now, you’ve said that the guest shower doesn’t show this problem, but are you confident that this is the case? Has the same person taken the same length of shower in both showers? If your belief that the guest shower doesn’t have this problem is based on reports from guests or from putting your hand into the shower and turning it on, then it’s not a valid comparison.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
To DerfIV:
The installer bought it straight for Lowes or HomeDepot that day.


To huesman:
I cannot locate it. I am aware of what it looks like. I know it is a 40gal. I live in a condo.



To Chris616:
Yes, I actually had to use the guest shower while the caulk the plumber put around the new tub faucet and handle was drying, no issues that i can remember.
 

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I'm thinking as above that a dip tube or valve issue.....

I just mention this as an extreme long shot especially for a condo.....do you have a hot water recirculator involved....????

(I ran into it on a home that would start out hot and turn colder at a remote master suite. The recirculating pump and it's check valve were hidden behind the hot water unit in a small closet. It was a stuck open backflow valve, that would start out hot, but once the pressure differential of opening the hot commenced, cold water came right thru to the shower)

Good luck
 

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I'm thinking as above that a dip tube or valve issue.....

I just mention this as an extreme long shot especially for a condo.....do you have a hot water recirculator involved....????

(I ran into it on a home that would start out hot and turn colder at a remote master suite. The recirculating pump and it's check valve were hidden behind the hot water unit in a small closet. It was a stuck open backflow valve, that would start out hot, but once the pressure differential of opening the hot commenced, cold water came right thru to the shower)

Good luck
That’s an interesting idea. There are a lot of different system setups from what I’ve just been reading, but in this simple diagram I think that you’re describing that if the check valve failed and the pump was not running that the water from the tank could flow either:
- As hot water the normal way following the red arrows, or;
- As potentially unheated water, in reverse to the blue arrow in the wrong direction through the check valve and pump.
That could certainly account for the described behavior and the problem could be better or worse at different fixtures depending on location on the loop.

The OP will have to know enough about plumbing to identify if a recirculation system is in play. Or he/she could take photos.

Chris
 

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To huesman:
I cannot locate it. I am aware of what it looks like. I know it is a 40gal. I live in a condo.
You can't find the water heater, or you can't find the temperature knob?

If the latter, the knob is usually at the bottom, like on the little control box above the cover plate here:
 
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