Shower next to pocket door?

Every interior door in my log home is a pocket door (that's what the wife wanted). There are different styles of pocket door kits. Some have horizontal bracing; mine do not. I suspect they could not adequately support cement board, and even if they could, there would be too much flex for tiling.

I suggest you check around for the kits that are available and try to determine if there's one that would support the weight.

I got my door kits at Home Depot, and do not recommend them. The instructions read like they were translated into English from Swahili by a Chinaman. Installing them was one of those tasks that took an hour and a half the first time, and 20 minutes each thereafter.

Not going to work.

Johnsonhardware PD kits have STEEL WRAPPED wood vertical studs/supports. Are you guys trying to tell us that would not hold cement board?
CMBOO: I think you'd have little to zero problems doing what you want if done correctly, using quality products.

DM

DangerMouse said:

Johnsonhardware PD kits have STEEL WRAPPED wood vertical studs/supports. Are you guys trying to tell us that would not hold cement board?
CMBOO: I think you'd have little to zero problems doing what you want if done correctly, using quality products.

DM

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That's what i have been reading. To use a quality kit and not something from HD and i will be fine.

Thanks for your reply!

CMB00 said:

i will be fine.

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Absolutely. Johnsonhardware.com is the ONLY pocket door hardware I have ever used. I've seen the "MIC" garbage and there is a WORLD of difference in the quality. As long as you don't have any restrictions on the thickness of the wall, you'll have zero problems. Tile and everything. If you need any help, come back here and ask the tile guys. Bud and Jaz are great...as well as others

DM

If this is just a shower (and not a tub/shower) could you add more framing and lose a couple of inches from the shower?

I have a pocket door that stores behind a full size shower,had it put in when we built our house,no special kits or hardware was used.

The only thing I would do is to use thicker studs inside the shower interior than the ones that come with the door kit. I would be leary to hang cement board and tile on the flimsy supplied studs. As already posted......use Johnson kit. I have used metal stud track (strutural gauge, not drywall) and a couple layers of ripped birch plywood to manufacture heavy duty versions of the manufacturer's studs.

I usually fill in the open spaces between the nailers with 3/4" plywood---stiffens up the wall a lot--
still--a second layer of 3/4" would make the wall system safer for tile----

Interesting. The kits I used also have steel-wrapped vertical studs, but there is still a lot of flex.

Because it's in the bathroom, make sure the track and hardware are rust resistant. Another choice for pocket door hardware is Grant. You can opt for aluminum I beam track.

I'd leave the shower wall alone and move the door a few inches to the right in the closet.