Thanks for the uber secret tool tip about the nail puller. Sounds fancy. ---------------
actually, it took me about 5 years to find the best nail puller, while I used many, many inferior ones during 27 years of framing houses and 7 years of remodeling.
Without knowing how and what was used to attach the framing, to claim that you may not impact the interior wall finishing is probably foolish. 2x8s will be much more deflection resistant here than standard 2x4 framing, but if they attached the framing with some long'ish framing nails, even using a magical nail puller will create some wall stresses.---------------
the framing should be attached with "longish" nails, it is the sheathing that would require only 2" or max. 2-1/2" nails. Surprised you don't know the terminology.
"
TABLE R602.3(1)-continued FASTENER SCHEDULE FOR STRUCTURAL MEMBERS
ITEM DESCRIPTION OF BUILDING
MATERIALS DESCRIPTION OF FASTENERb, c, e SPACING OF FASTENERS Edges
(inches)i Intermediate
supportsc, e
(inches)
Wood structural panels, subfloor, roof and interior wall sheathing to framing and particleboard wall sheathing to framing 30 3/8″ -1/2 ″ 6d common (2″×0.113″) nail (subfloor wall)
8d common (21/2″×0.131″) nail (roof)f 6 12g
31 19/32″ - 1″ 8d common nail (21/2″×0.131″) 6 12g
32 11/8″ - 11/4 ″ 10d common (3″×0.148″) nail or
8d (21/2″×0.131″) deformed nail 6 12" from;
http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_6_par013.htm?bu2=undefined
We even discuss this potential with clients when we are pulling siding with 1.5" nails in it. You won't typically have any large issues in the open areas of the drywall, but you can get nail pops and areas around window trim and jamb extensions are more prevalent. ------
Remodel requires informing the clients... remove pictures from walls, clear area, etc... in that 7 years we had three nail pops. Even 2x4 studs are pretty resilient, try a different puller.
Seeing as more air leakage, on average, comes from the cumulative areas of top and bottom plate gaps and seals, I will stick to my original concerns regardless of fishing through every wire and electrical outlet box. You are going to spend a good bit of time pulling off each piece of sheathing and sorting through all the insulation for every penetration, wire, and envelope breach. ---------
simple, really. Measure the box on the inside, locate it by measuring outside, pull that area of the insulation at that side of stud only, vapor barrier should be fastened to both sides- the other side will hold that side up. Only remove a little higher than outlet is off floor by measuring inside first. The wire hole should be easy at the plate. Don't worry about the holes through sides of studs where wire was daisy-chained to the next box. There shouldn't be much air difference to force infiltration/exfiltration of the house air with an air barrier on both sides, when it has no where to go. Super job, air seal the drywall/ceiling joints in the attic/crawlspace.
I would recommend that you get puddy pads for the back of the boxes as they are more inert than foam here and will probably be easier to put on and get tight. You can order them online from Hilti or other places. Most contractors withexperience and that do this type of work know about those things.
Good luck with it. Sounds like a pretty good project by the time you pull the stuff but hopefully you can segment it out and just work down the walls in order.
. And you need the foam anyway to fill the wire/plumbing holes or by more putty- minimum order is.... lol. Or a small house.
